the war against China in the 1890s and then the Russo-Japanese War of 1905, the shrine became a memorial site to the dead of all Japanese wars since 1853, when the Imperial Restoration began. Soldiers heading into battle traditionally parted with the words “Let us meet at Yasukuni,” where their spirits would be worshipped. As a result of the Japanese wars of the 1930s and 1940s, now 2,500,000 spirits are honored at the shrine. The more militant of Japanese nationalists who still see Japan’s wars of the 1930s and 1940s as crusades to free Asia of Western imperialism have made the shrine a gathering place, as mentioned above. As a result, the visits to Yasukuni by members of the government have been the occasion for deep unrest among many of Japan’s victims in past Japanese wars, particularly since even those who were convicted of war crimes, such as General Tojo, are also enshrined here, an action taken surreptitiously by the Japanese government, much to the outrage of other nations. In 2005 the Japanese courts indicated that such visits violate the Japanese Constitution, but those of a nationalistic bent often act beyond the law. Though prior to 1945 the shrine was under military administration, the American occupation after 1945 had the shrine revert to non-governmental control. The shrine remains an unfortunate bone of contention for the Chinese, Korean, and other nations that suffered from Japanese imperialism.
Shinto priests at Yasukuni Shrine
The grounds are entered under the huge, steel First Torii (Daiichi Torii), a modern torii whose predecessor was melted in 1943 for use in armament production. Beyond it at an intersection of paths is the statue to Masujiro Omura (1824–1869), the first minister of War after the Meiji Restoration. He was in charge of the Meiji forces that defeated the shogun’s supporters who held out in Ueno in 1868; just one year later he was assassinated. This statue in his honor was the first modern bronze statue in Japan when it was unveiled in 1888. Further along the path there is a stone torii and then the bronze Second Torii of 1887, and to its left is the Hands-Washing Place for ablutions before entering the inner shrine quarters. The path is lined with flowering cherry and with gingko trees and monuments to military men of the past.
The Divine Gate (Shinmon) of twelve pillars, with the imperial chrysanthemum of 16 petals embossed on its doors, follows, the Shrine Offices being to the left and the Noh Theater to the right. At the end of the path is the Haiden, the Hall for Worship of the spirits of the dead, and beyond that the sacred Honden, the Main Hall, where the spirits are enshrined. Between the Noh theater and the Hall of Worship is the Festivals Section, while the Hall of Arrival is to the right of the Honden. Behind the Haiden is the Treasury, with the mementoes of Japan’s wars mentioned above. Farther to the right-hand, rear of the shrine are the attractive Divine Pond, teahouses, and sumo ring.
The two major festivals of the Yasukuni shrine occur in the spring on April 21–23 while the autumn festival is held on October 17–20. At these times, in the tradition of the past, Noh dances, Bugako, Kyogen farces, biwa music, folk music, kendo, and other activities to please the spirits of the dead are offered. These are festive occasions as are all Japanese commemorative functions for the dead. At these times, an Imperial Messenger presents imperial offerings at the shrine and reads the Imperial Message to the deities here enshrined. Commemorative services are also held each August 15, the day World War II ended for Japan. One other period of the year is particularly noted at this shrine, and that is the springtime blossoming of the many ornamental cherry trees on the shrine grounds.
6 CHIDORIGAFUCHI WATER PARK
Returning to the large statue of Masujiro Omura and crossing Yasukuni-dori, one can walk down Yasukuni-dori to the street that runs south along the Kita-no-maru Garden to Chidorigafuchi (Plover Depths), the pond that existed before the castle was built and that was included within the moat structure of the castle grounds. It takes its name from the perceived resemblance of this waterway to the wings of a plover in flight. Chidorigafuchi Water Park is lined with some 90 cherry trees that in 1953 replaced the ones first planted here by Sir Ernest Satow (1843– 1929), a British diplomat in the early Meiji period in the 19th century. The original trees were uprooted in the course of the construction of the Shuto Expressway.
The name “Water Park” refers not only to the moat but to the fact that one can rent rowboats for a pleasurable time on the waters of the park. Beyond this area, just before the Shuto Expressway and in a small park on the right is a hexagonal pavilion with a light green roof that has served since 1959 as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a sacred spot commemorating the 90,000 unknown dead of Japan’s wars. Under the roof is a symbolic, large stone sarcophagus. Each August 15, the anniversary of the end of World War II, the emperor makes his obeisance at this shrine, which remembers all those who died, regardless of their religion (unlike the Yasukuni Shrine, which is Shinto) or whether they were civilian or military. This visit occurs without the opprobrium connected with the Yasukuni Shrine for many non-nationalists and people of other nations.
Continuing along the western side of the Imperial Palace grounds, the handsome British Embassy is passed in the Bancho district of the city. In this sector the Hatamoto, the 7,000 guardsmen, drawn from the retainers of the shogun’s domains, were stationed in an area that stretched to Ichigaya. Six regiments of these warrior guards lived here, each in his own district (bancho), and the district is still divided into six bancho blocks. After 1868, many of the Meiji nobility had their mansions here, and the area is still an upper-class residential district. Opposite the British Embassy, for example, is the modern Bancho House by the American architect Robert Stern, a combination office and apartment building.
Farther south along Uchibori-dori, the Hanzo-mon Gate to the Fukiage Imperial Palace is monitored by a police guard. At this place once lived Hattori Hanzo, the leader of the shogun’s spies, those black-clad Ninja of tradition who were adept at infiltration, assassination, and acts of derring-do that still fill Japanese cinema and television with their version of traditional medieval Japanese soap operas. The Hanzo-mon Gate has a more pacific reputation in modern times, since this is one of the entrances to the Fukiage area of the Imperial Palace private grounds. It was in this area that the Showa emperor, Hirohito, had his botanical laboratory and rice paddy fields. The emperor was unwittingly carrying on a tradition from the 18th century, for here the eighth shogun, Yoshimune (1716–1745) had an herb garden and a plantation for plant research. Just before the gate, on the left, is a small park that runs along the palace moat, and in it is a statue grouping of three nude, young male figures (such as the Tokugawa and Meiji governments would not have permitted). The park is a favorite place for lunchtime use by workers from adjacent office buildings.
The Hanzomon subway station lies two short streets along Shinjuku-dori to the west of the Hanzo-mon entrance to the palace, and it can be taken to other connecting lines as one leaves this area. However, the JCII Camera Museum offers a possible diversion before reaching the end point of this walk. It can be reached by taking the first right on Shinjuku-dori and continuing past two quick intersections and almost to the third.
7 JCII CAMERA MUSEUM (DIVERSION)
The JCII Camera Museum (open Tuesday—Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) was established by the Japan (Nippon) Camera and optical instruments Inspection and testing Institute (JCII) in the late 1980s. Although likely of limited interest to non–camera buffs, it is a must-see for photographers for its collection of several thousand cameras from Japan and overseas, which range from historic models and so-called “curio” cameras to modern gear. Of broader interest are the photographic exhibitions that the museum puts on regularly. To proceed to the Hanzomon subway station after your visit, return along the street by which you came and, at the first intersection, turn right. The station will lie before you when you reach the next cross street.
GETTING THERE
This tour starts at Otemachi Station, which is served by the Toei Mita Line, the Hibiya Line, the Tozai Line, the Marunouchi Line, and the Hanzomon Line. One can also walk to Otemachi Station in five minutes from Tokyo Station.
Walking Tour 3
NAGATACHO AND AKASAKA
High Culture, the Law, Politics, an Ancient Shrine, Commercial