food and may be used in place of red pepper in certain of the recipes.
Tomato catsup: Use as indicated in recipes.
Vinegar: Since Western-style vinegar is stronger than the Oriental variety, amounts called for in this book should be slightly decreased if former is used.
Wine: If Chinese yellow wine is unavailable, dry white sherry, cognac, or Japanese sake may be substituted.
SPECIAL HELPS AND HINTS. Advance preparation: Preparation of the ingredients for Chinese dishes involves more work than the actual cooking. Much time and energy will be saved if the prepared ingredients are all assembled in one place-preferably on a large platter or plate-before the cooking process is undertaken. Seasonings should be readily accessible. Such advance steps as washing, soaking, cutting, parboiling, and pre-deep-frying should be accomplished first. Once the pan is on the fire, fried foods will require only a few minutes. If advance preparations are made, reheating, deep-frying, or sauteing will take only 15 minutes before serving.
Cutting methods: It is a basic principle of Chinese cooking to cut the ingredients into sizes and shapes convenient for picking up with chopsticks, so that knives and forks need not be used. Meat and vegetables are frequently shredded. A single dish nearly always consists of two or more main ingredients (meat and vegetables or fish and vegetables), and these are always cut to the same size. The following are the chief methods of cutting employed in recipes in this book (see photograph):
Chop: Cut into very small pieces with knife or other implement.
Cube: Cut into cubes approximately one inch in size.
Dice: Cut into small cubes the size of dice.
Flake: Cut or grate into shavings.
Grate: Rub on a grater to produce fine grains.
Mince: Cut fine with knife or kitchen scissors.
Section: Cut into one-to two-inch lengths.
Shred: Cut into fine, thread-like strips.
Slice: Cut into very thin pieces. (Abalone should be sliced in a wavy pattern.)
Wedge: Cut into small triangular sections.
Chinese cooking techniques: Braise: Brown ingredients in small amount of oil, add broth or water, cover tightly, and cook slowly (30 to 90 minutes, depending on ingredients) over weak flame until ingredients become tender. Braised dishes may be prepared in extra portions to be served at subsequent meals. This saves effort for the cook. Extra portions need only to be steamed before they are served.
Deep-fry: Fry ingredients with or without batter in plenty of deep oil.
Dredge: Sprinkle or coat with flour, cornstarch, soy sauce, or other substances before cooking.
Fry (or saute): Cook in small amount (3 to 6 tablespoons) of hot oil.
Fu yung: Cook with eggs to give omelet effect.
Mix: Combine ingredients, usually by stirring. Saute: See Fry.
Smoke: Soak meat in seasonings, then smoke over brown sugar or pine needles. This method may be substituted for deep-frying in some recipes.
Steam: Arrange food on plate or rack and steam over boiling water for 15 minutes to 1 hour.
Sweet and sour dishes: Make sauce by mixing ingredients with small amount of cornstarch and pour sauce over main ingredients.
Cornstarch: Cornstarch is used with great frequency in Chinese cooking to thicken the gravy or sauce and to make it more palatable. The use of cornstarch also serves to keep the food hot for a longer time and enhances its appearance by making it more glossy. In most cases, cornstarch is mixed with water before it is added to the other ingredients. Follow instructions in individual recipes.
Measurements: The measurements in these recipes should be strictly adhered to. If desired, they may be decreased, but never increased. In this book
1 cup equals 1/2 pint or 200 cubic centimeters
1 tablespoon equals 1/2 fluid ounce or 15 cubic centimeters
1 teaspoon equals 11/3 fluid drams or 5 cubic centimeters
For other information on measurements, see "Sizes and Amounts of Ingredients."
Oil: Since Chinese cooking requires a large amount of frying oil, it is sometimes uneconomical to use prepared oils. Also, since vegetable oils are always preferred to animal fats in Chinese cooking, peanut oil and bean oil-popular products of China and Japan-are most often used. Cottonseed oil is a satisfactory substitute. If vegetable oil is used, the food remains delicious even if it becomes cold. On the other hand, if lard is used, the food should be served hot. When you use peanut, bean, or cottonseed oil, it should first be purified as follows:
1. Pour 5 cups of oil into a pan and add 3 slices of ginger and 1 leek cut into 3 sections.
2. Heat oil until ginger and leek turn brown; then remove them. Oil is then ready for use.
Heating the oil in this fashion imparts a special flavor. When you prepare hot or cold dishes, it is wise to add a few tablespoons of sesame oil for a richer flavor. Sesame oil does not require purification before use. Chinese food is rich but not greasy.
Here are further suggestions regarding the use of oil:
1. The cooking pan should be well heated before the oil is put in.
2. The oil should be well heated before ingredients are added.
3. Ginger, leek, and garlic should be browned slightly before other ingredients are added.
4. Deep-fry oil can be used over and over again if it is poured through a strainer lined with a piece of cotton. The cotton can then be discarded, and the strainer will be easy to clean. Before each use, brown 4 slices of ginger and 5 inches of leek in the oil to remove odor. Keep oil in a covered container.
5. If oil spatters when ingredients are added, cover pan with a lid.
Seasoning: When you are preparing meat or fish dishes, these ingredients should first be partially cooked before you add soy sauce and salt.
If a little salt is first sprinkled into water or oil, boiled or fried vegetables will turn a brighter green.
When a recipe calls for several seasonings, these should first be mixed in a small bowl and placed conveniently by the cooking pan. Seasonings should be added quickly at the proper time indicated in each recipe.
For cold dishes, the sauce should not be added until immediately before serving.
Ginger and garlic should be crushed with the back of a heavy knife.
Servings: Recipes in this book will serve four persons, unless otherwise specified. Instead of increasing portions for additional guests, as one would do in most Western countries, the custom in China is to enlarge the fare with another dish or two.
Stock (or broth): A good soup stock is always essential in the preparation of Chinese food. Stock made from whole soup chicken or pieces of beef or pork is the best. Chicken, beef, and pork bones make a second-class stock. Stock made from beans, fish, dry shrimp, or vegetables may also be used.
Boil the ingredients (chicken, beef, or bones) in plenty of water with 1 stalk of leek and 3 slices of ginger. Cook over low flame and do not cover. Simmer for 1 hour. The stock should be very clear. Add 1/2 teaspoon of mono-sodium glutamate. Remove meat from stock to be eaten separately with soy sauce or used in salad.
Utensils (see photographs, pages 21 and