Chris Bunting

Drinking Japan


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      Mugishutei [beer] 154

      NAHA, OKINAWA

      Karakara to Chibugwa [awamori] 125

      Kozakura [awamori] 127

      Salon de Awamori [awamori] 128

      Urizun [awamori] 130

      Yamanekoya [awamori] 133

      Izakaya sign, Shinjuku, Tōkyō. Right: Bar in the Golden Gai drinking district, Shinjuku, Tōkyō.

      CONTENTS

       Japan: A Drinker’s Paradise

       Japan’s Drinking Culture

       The Main Types of Drinking Establishments

      Chapter 1 The Art of Japanese Sake

      Chapter 2 Japan’s Incredible Shōchū Culture

      Chapter 3 The Joys of Okinawan Awamori

      Chapter 4 The Glories of Japanese Beer

      Chapter 5 Award-winning Japanese Whiskies

      Chapter 6 Japan’s Excellent Wine Bars

      Chapter 7 Other Great Bars in Japan

      Chapter 8 Buying Japanese Wines, Beers and Spirits

      Appendix: Speaking “Bar Japanese”

       Index

       Acknowledgments

       Bibliography

       Photo Credits

      Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd

       www.tuttlepublishing.com

      Copyright © 2011 by Chris Bunting

      All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher.

      ISBN: 978-1-4629-0627-7 (ebook)

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      Salarymen enjoy a cheap drink after work in Shinjuku, Tōkyō. Social drinking has been an important part of Japanese business life for centuries.

      Japan: A Drinker’s Paradise

      The idea first struck me while walking through Tōkyō’s Shinjuku district. I had just left a whisky bar stacked with more than 500 bottles of single-malt whisky and I was heading to another which specialized in Japanese whiskies, of which it offered more than 250 varieties. En route I had noticed a makkori bar, which I was later to discover offered a world-beating selection of the Korean rice wine makkori. Within a kilometer of where I stood, there were at least three superb sake pubs, another bar laden down with more Scotch whisky than you could sample in a lifetime, a Bourbon bar with a stock of 400 premium American whiskies, and a hotel which boasted the best range of American wines in Asia. And this wasn’t even particularly unusual for Japan. For drinkers in Roppongi, Shibuya, Ginza, Akasaka, Ōsaka and Kyōto, such drinking opportunities were commonplace. Many of Japan’s provincial cities were not far behind. Japan, it occurred to me, was the best place to drink alcohol in the world.

      Unlike most grand theories cooked up in the rosy glow of a good evening out, this idea did not immediately crumble in the sober light of morning. In fact, it has grown into a conviction. Visitors who know their way around the bars perched in Japan’s high-rise drinking districts, each stacked with hundreds of bottles of their chosen drink, can access a range of whiskies, beers, wines and spirits that I believe is unrivaled anywhere else in the world. Of course, there are better places to enjoy particular types of alcohol. If you want a wine holiday, for example, you would do better traveling to France or South Africa than the back streets of Shinjuku. If you like whisky, take a trip to Scotland or Kentucky. For beer, try England, Belgium or Germany. But if you want to try them all or just want to explore a little beyond your usual tipple, I believe there is no better place than Japan.

      The claim that Japan has a uniquely rich alcohol culture is not original. Long before my epiphany in Shinjuku, Taylor Smisson, the doyen of Tōkyō whisky drinkers, had already convinced me that Japanese whisky bars were the best in the world. He called Tōkyō “the Scotch single-malt drinker’s heaven on earth” and also introduced me to many of the non-whisky bars featured in this guide.

      “Tōkyō is probably the best place to drink Scottish single malts, not to mention Japanese single malts, as well as many other alcoholic beverages,” Smisson says. “But most visitors from overseas are not aware of this and come and go without taking full advantage.”

      Nicholas Coldicott, who writes about alcohol for The Japan Times, says, “Tōkyō has a more diverse drinking scene than