a continuous road that encircles the Cheviots, which results in miles of unpopulated uplands. Apart from occasional isolated hill farms scattered over the area, the only habitation is in a few villages and hamlets on the extremities of the range. Small towns such as Wooler, Kelso and Jedburgh are situated in the surrounding valleys, some 10 miles from the higher ground. This scattered and sparse population, while enhancing the isolation factor so beloved by walkers, can create a problem for the adventurer who lacks transport. Local bus services, or the post bus, can and do assist in such cases.
The Walks
In this chapter are 16 walks. Walk 1 starts at Old Yeavering, the extreme eastern limit of the Cheviot range, and ascends the eastern Cheviots, a fine introduction to the outliers of Muckle Cheviot. Walk 2 surmounts Cheviot, the highest mountain in the range, by a well-trodden path that offers to the energetic fine views of the Border hills and the Tweed Valley. Walk 3 climbs Hedgehope Hill, the second highest mountain in Northumbria, includes the finest waterfall in the Cheviots, and traverses moorland and forest with only the birds and animals for company.
A change of start brings Walk 4 to Scotland, where the Halterburn Valley winds through the gentle northern foothills, by the high road and the low road. The Halterburn Horseshoe, a valley and ridge walk of high quality, describes Walk 5 perfectly. Walk 6 follows a reivers’ way into England, passing two lonely Border hill farms, several ancient settlements, a burial cairn or two, and several thousand sheep.
Remaining in Scotland, the next five walks have their starts and finishes at the historic farm of Cocklawfoot, deep in the Bowmont Valley. Walk 7 is rich in scenery, wildlife, history, legend and personal reward, though a deal of effort is needed to scramble up the Hen Hole and negotiate the corrie to Auchope Cairn. Walk 8 has a long but pleasant walk-in to the Schil, at 1985ft (605m) the most spectacular non-mountain in the Cheviots. Walk 9 will demand effort and experience from the walker, and involves a little wild walking and perhaps the use of map and compass. The ability to identify Second World War aircraft could also add interest. Walk 10 by comparison is an easier, more sedate mountain route along the historic scenic path to the summit of Windy Gyle – a fine walk on a summer’s evening, a gem on a crisp winter’s day with a few inches of fresh snow underfoot.
Further west along the Border Ridge, from the tiny hamlet of Hownam, Walk 11 follows the trails of our Iron Age ancestors, the legions of Rome and the cattle drovers. The ascent of Hownam Law brings the walker to the very edge of the northern Cheviots. Secluded Greenhill is the start of Walk 12, a fine ridge and valley walk into the heart of a complex of Iron Age settlements – good paths and tracks add bounce to the step. The black waters of Heatherhope Reservoir start Walk 13, bound for the Street, the Border Ridge and Callaw Cairn, and up to mysterious Church Hope Hill. Tow Ford on the upper reaches of Kale Water is the start and finish of Walk 14, which ventures into England via Dere Street to visit a Roman encampment at Chew Green. Walk 15 marches north to the edge of the high ground, to return along another section of Dere Street, past the ancient stone circle of Five Stanes and finish at the Roman marching camp of Pennymuir. The Border crossing of Carter Bar starts Walk 16 over Carter Fell to visit old lime kilns and drift mines.
Scald Hill above Langleeford Hope (Walk 2)
Easter, Newton and Wester Tors
WALK 1
Early Christianity and Iron Age Forts
| Start/Finish | Old Yeavering, GR 924304 |
| Distance | 7 miles (11.3km) |
| Total Ascent | 1962ft (598m) |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 4–4½ hours |
| Maps | OS 1:25 000 Explorer OL16, The Cheviot Hills OS 1:50 000 Landranger sheet 74, Kelso & Coldstream Harvey 1:40 000 SuperWalker, Cheviot Hills |
| Parking | On the verges at the Old Yeavering T-junction, GR 924304 |
| Accommodation | Wooler – hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, youth hostel, caravan park |
Two of the Cheviots’ finest grandstands, Wester Tor and Yeavering Bell, are visited en route. These typical Cheviot hills are rich in character, history and far-seeing views.
A fine introduction to the extreme east end of the Cheviot Range via a selection of ascending or descending, rarely on the level, waymarked public footpaths, permitted paths and St Cuthbert’s Way. Underfoot ranges from stony roads, dirt-and-grass tracks to narrow peat paths through heather, bracken and hilltop rock.
Compass and map are essential in low visibility or adverse weather conditions.
A country road, the B6351, runs west from the Wooler to Milfield A697 at Akeld for 2¼ miles (3.6km) to Old Yeavering junction on the left, bearing a finger post reading ‘Yeavering Bell 1 mile, Hethpool 2½ miles’. Limited grass verge parking by the finger post marks the start of the walk.
Walk up the stony cart track, with the domed summit of Yeavering Bell ahead and above, to pass the cottages and a second finger post, then veer right by the farm buildings. At the end of these a stile on the left directs to ‘The Hillfort Trail – Yeavering Bell ¾ mile’, which will be our return route. However, continuing ahead over the burn we take the steadily ascending scenic cart track southwest over several cattle-grids, alongside the tree-lined and bracken-clad gouged course of Yeavering Burn. After about 1 mile (1.6km), as the way levels out and we pass several venerable oaks, a clutch of earth-fast boulders and a conifer stand, we meet the latest of the Borders national trails, St Cuthbert’s Way, before Torleehouse. (This route enables the walker to tackle the very steep northern flank of Yeavering Bell as a return descent and not an initial lung-bursting ascent.)
Old Yeavering ‘Ad-Gebrin’ or ‘Gefrin’ it was called in the sixth century, this timber palace built for the kings of Northumbria and enlarged for King Edwin, 616–33. Here also the missionary Paulinus came to Edwin’s marriage, and for 35 days afterwards converted Northumbrians to Christianity.
St Cuthbert’s Way A truly Border country middle-distance walk covering 62½ miles (100km) from Melrose in the heart of the Scottish Borders to Lindisfarne – Holy Island – anchored to Northumberland’s northern coastline. We meet this popular walk several times within the eastern Cheviots.
At the waymark post on our left we turn left onto a grass, stone-embedded cart track, passing what would appear to be the mounds, ditches, and piles of rocks and stones of a centuries-old farming homestead, as we climb south then east and finally south-southeast to cross the wall by a ladder-stile on the skyline ahead. From this point St Cuthbert’s Way demands a few deep breaths as the contours close in and grass gives way to heather and bracken, where feral goats can be seen on the wide and wild expanse of far-seeing ridge and hill. 547yds (500m) from the last ladder-stile look out for an unusual four-way directional marker standing 12 inches above the ground: ‘South-south-east Commonburn House, west Easter Tor ¾ mile – Wester Tor 2 miles, east Yeavering Bell ¾ mile’.
At this point, should you consider that the journey to Wester Tor and the return makes the walk too long and/or strenuous, turn left, facing the inviting slopes with visible paths to the intriguing summit of Yeavering Bell. If you wish to explore further, however, and save the best to last, turn right and cross the stone dyke by ladder-stile. Now ascend 492ft (150m) via the permissive path through heather and white grass west and then south and southwest over the southern flanks of Easter Tor with its outcrop of summit rock. This tor is the least interesting of the three, so continue southwest and south-southwest over the more gentle, sloping southern shoulders of Newton Tors for 1¼ miles (2km) on a pathway that provides sightings of the formidable bulk of the Cheviot. As the path swings west and then north to the col dividing the flat dome of Wester Tor 1762ft (537m) and cairn-capped Hare Law 1700ft (518m), turn left to join the stone dyke leading west to the summit of Hare Law – a fine grandstand from which to gaze upon the north face of Cheviot and admire the elegant sweep of the College Valley far below. Return via the stone dyke to the jeep track and walk north to the summit of Wester