scrambles as the route climbs amidst top mountain scenery, but the ‘downside’ is that walkers need to be experienced as well as largely self-sufficient in terms of water, food and sleeping gear. Paddy Dillon’s detailed guide GR20 Corsica – The High-Level Route is available from Cicerone.
In addition to the selection of walks described in this guide, interesting suggestions can be found in the brochures ‘Balades en Corse – Sentiers du Pays’, put out by the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse and available at local tourist offices. However they give no route details and a map is essential. Many routes are signposted at the very start then you are quickly left to your own devices.
Difficulty
A scale of 1 to 3 has been used to grade the walks in terms of difficulty.
Grade 1 indicates fairly easy going on mostly level ground, a broad track or clear path. Unless otherwise specified, it is suitable for all age groups and abilities.
Grade 2 is average, involving a fair amount of height gain and loss: basic orienteering skills may be required.
Grade 3 is challenging and is intended for seasoned walkers with stamina. Some experience on rocky terrain and exposure is recommended, along with orientation and map-reading skills.
Dos and Don’ts
Walking boots should be neither too new (blisters!) or too old (insufficient grip on stony terrain).
Don’t overload your rucksack, as a sore back can spoil your holiday. An excessive load can also put you off balance on exposed ridges or during steep descents. Be honest – are you really going to have the time or energy to read that novel? Are those extra clothes really essential? (Corsica is a relaxed holiday destination and the need for ‘dressing up’ is rare.) It’s enlightening to weigh your pack before setting out on long-distance routes – if it exceeds 10kg, think again.
Take both weather forecasts and fire warnings seriously and be prepared to modify your walk route if needs be. In the unfortunate event that you experience one of the island’s infamous violent summer storms, complete with unbelievably torrential rain and potentially dangerous lightning, keep well away from prominent trees, rock overhangs, caves and metal fixtures (get rid of your trekking poles), and curl up on the ground keeping your head down. If on the other hand you are caught out by fire, take cover if possible in a watercourse, or on a high point where rescuers can spot you easily. If you notice a fire burning alert the authorities by phoning
Take care when fording rivers after heavy rain. Even the most sluggish watercourse can swell in a surprisingly short time and produce an impetuous flow. A stick or trekking pole will aid balance.
When crossing suspension bridges, one person at a time is the best rule, and the same goes for aided rock passages with fixed chain.
Don’t plan your walk in too rigid a manner, as it will limit your flexibility. Allow for rest days and breaks for detours to places of interest instead of rushing straight through.
Carry plenty of drinking water at all times of year. When settlements are touched on, you’ll nearly always get a refill, as true to farming tradition it’s a very rare village that has no public drinking fountain or tap. Natural watercourses abound; however, so does grazing livestock, so drinking from streams is not always advisable.
Never proceed too far without checking for waymarking, as lack thereof may mean a wrong turn onto one of the many hunter’s or boar trails. The long-distance routes are especially well marked with orange paint stripes.
Be considerate when making a toilet stop. Keep away from watercourses and never leave unsightly paper or tissues lying around. Derelict buildings or rock overhangs are also out – remember that they could serve as emergency shelter for someone!
Residents in the EU should take with them the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaces the E111 and entitles the holder to reciprocal health treatment in France. A ‘Health Advice for Travellers’ leaflet is available at post offices in the UK. Travel insurance covering a walking holiday is also recommended, and is essential for non-Europeans.
Last but not at all least behave as a responsible walker and leave nothing behind you except footprints.
Walking boots take a bashing in Corsica
In case of danger
Call the general emergency number
What to Take
sturdy walking boots with ankle support and non-slip soles
a comfortable rucksack and a supply of plastic bags to keep everything dry
T-shirts and shorts
pullover and windproof jacket
long trousers to protect your legs from the scratchy maquis shrubs
waterproofs – either a voluminous poncho or separate jacket, over-trousers and rucksack cover. A lightweight fold-up umbrella will be appreciated by walkers who wear glasses
sandals or flip-flops for beaches, dormitory wear and fording rivers
sleeping sheet and towel
sun-block cream, lip salve and a wide-brimmed hat
trekking poles, preferably telescopic, handy for discouraging the odd over-enthusiastic dog, balancing on stepping stones during river crossings and hanging out your washing, not to mention diverting your rucksack load onto your arms
first-aid kit, including antiseptic cream to treat grazes from brambles and maquis, and the odd nettle sting
salt tablets to combat excessive sweating and fatigue
a compass and even an altimeter, combined with the appropriate walking map, are a great help should you inadvertently stray off the track
swimming costume and goggles or mask
Cucuruzzu affords lovely views over the Alta Rocca area (Walk 15)
Maps
A detailed contour map is an essential aid to any walk undertaken in Corsica. The sketch maps provided in this guide are limited by space and graphics and are not intended as substitutes. Excellent maps published by the France’s Institute Géographique National (IGN) are referred to in the heading of each walk described in this book. The blue Top 25 1:25,000 series are on sale all over Corsica in newsagents and even supermarkets, not to mention outdoor and map shops overseas. An orange 1:50,000 series has also been published, handy for the long-distance routes, however they are inexplicably unavailable on the island and can only be purchased at official IGN outlets in France, through specialist distributors in other countries or online at www.ign.fr. At a stretch the green IGN 1:100,000 series could accompany a long-distance route and be used for identifying distant ranges and landmarks including villages, though they won’t be much help if you get lost.
Accommodation
Price list at a gîte d’étape
The wonderful French invention the gîte