The Islands of Croatia. Rudolf Abraham

is generally a rather unsatisfying experience – few people are likely to stop, and it’s not always easy to find a good place to stand where you’re not going to get mown down by passing traffic. You can also try looking for a ride (with a small charge) on the local hitching forum, www.gorivo.com. In Croatia, as elsewhere, hitching can never be recommended as entirely safe for those travelling alone, particularly women.

Accommodation

      There is a wide range of accommodation on the Croatian coast and islands – from large resort-style complexes to small boutique hotels, pensions (pansion), private rooms and apartments, hostels and campsites – and even several lighthouses. Private rooms (sobe – similar to a B&B, but usually without breakfast) and apartments (apartmani – usually with a small kitchen) are generally better value than hotels. Some rooms and apartments have a minimum one-week stay, and most will charge a supplement for stays less than three nights. Local tourist offices usually have private accommodation listed on their website, and some will book it for you, while others will refer you to a local agency for the booking itself. In most cases the owner of the soba or apartman will come to meet you at the tourist office and show you to your chosen accommodation.

      Hotels usually offer their best rates online. Try to book as far in advance as possible during the peak season (July–August), as places do get booked up. Prices are significantly lower during shoulder seasons (May–June and September–October), and many places close during the winter months (those which remain open tend to reduce their rates by as much as 50 per cent at this time). Prices are often quoted in euro and converted to kuna according to the daily rate. Hotels often only charge a small amount above their room rates for half-board. Wild camping, and camping within a national park or nature park, is prohibited.

      A useful website to search for private rooms and apartments is www.gdjenamore.com. For youth hostels, see www.hfhs.hr; for lighthouses offering accommodation, see www.lighthouses-croatia.com. Local tourist board websites are listed in the introduction to each island.

      Sculpture on a wall in Supetar, on Brač

Food and wine

      Croatian food is delicious, and it’s worth coming here just to eat.

      Perhaps not surprisingly, seafood features prominently on menus on the islands, from ‘premium’ white fish such as gilthead bream (orada) and sea bass (brancin), which are priced by the kilo, to a wide array of shellfish and more humble but no less delicious dishes like marinated sardines. Fish is typically served grilled (na žaru) or boiled (kuhano), topped with olive oil, garlic and parsley, and traditionally served with blitva (Swiss chard) and potatoes.

      Ispod peke is a slow, traditional Croatian method of cooking octopus, lamb or other meat – together with potatoes, onions, wine, olive oil and other ingredients – by roasting it in a shallow dish which is covered with an iron ‘lid’ or ‘bell’ sprinkled with hot coals.

      Lamb is another perennial favourite on the islands, usually spit roasted or cooked ispod peke (the best lamb is said to come from the island of Pag, where the animals graze on sparse herbs dusted with sea spray by the bura wind).