there is an 0830 Chania–Hora Sfakion bus, and a return bus that waits for the boat from the Samaria Gorge at about 1800.
Note Hora Sfakion is called ‘Sfakia’ locally.
Chania–Souyia
During the tourist season, Souyia bus services run to/from Chania, Paleochora, and Elafonissi. For planning your walking day, consult the KTEL website (or the latest timetable) to see all the variables, since they are quite complicated. Basically, the timetable aims to provide visitors with access to/from the Ay. Irini Gorge and the Samaria Gorge trailheads at suitable times of day. The 0845 departure from Chania goes via Omalos Monday–Saturday (Sundays are different) and the daily 1815 departure from Souyia to Chania waits for the ferryboat (from Ay. Roumeli). The regular morning bus from Souyia to Chania (via Omalos) departs at 0700.
Chania–Omalos and Xyloscala
When the Samaria Gorge is closed, a year-round village service to Lakki (on the Omalos road) terminates at the next nearby village. However, when the gorge is being prepared for opening, normally by 1 May, a skeleton service reaches Xyloscala. The service expands a little when the gorge is busy. Check the timetable in advance at Chania bus station: local people on the Omalos route are uncertain of the changing timetable. KTEL buses pass through Omalos hamlet (called ‘Omalos hotels’ by the bus crew) on the way to and from Xyloscala (3km), but drivers do not stop to pick up more passengers if the bus is full. From Chania there may be three early morning bus departures, two of which return immediately from Xyloscala. There is no afternoon bus from Xyloscala to Chania. To get around all this, certain Omalos proprietors run a Xyloscala ‘trailhead’ mini-bus service for their guests. If there are spare seats they will sell tickets to non-guests.
KTEL sells a round-tour ticket for the Samaria Gorge excursion (walking it yourself without a tour guide), which covers Chania–Xyloscala and the return bus journey, usually from Hora Sfakion rather than Souyia (enquire). The cost of the boat trip from Ay. Roumeli is separate (purchase tickets at Ay. Roumeli). For a day trip, therefore, buy this ticket, with its reserved seat from Hora Sfakion, and, during busy periods, buy it the night before. The KTEL round should give you more time in the gorge than an organised tour, although this can depend on the boat schedule from Ay. Roumeli, which also varies according to demand. Eliminate these unwelcome pressures by staying overnight in Ay. Roumeli (Walk 2), where there are plenty of facilities. As a rule, the first boat leaves Ay. Roumeli for Hora Sfakion (via Loutro) at about noon; journey time is 50mins, but check the latest timetable.
Trekkers (just visible under tree) starting along the south end of the Zaranokefala crag (Walk 7A)
Taxis
Taxis are metered according to a government-regulated charge per kilometre, which – according to drivers – needs to be reviewed annually. If it is not, they may seek to charge what they calculate to be fair. Agree the fare in advance and/or check that the meter is turned on. Extra is chargeable for luggage, and up to four passengers are allowed (certain taxis hold seven). For a party of four, long-distance taxi transfers can be very economical. See websites for taxi fare information.
Taxi drivers seek to avoid unmade roads because of the dust and the extra driving effort needed, but village roads like this are now rare. In the countryside, if you arrange a lift in a private vehicle, expect the driver to drop you just outside your destination to avoid offending local taxi drivers. In Chania, the Roussos & Manouli Marianakis taxi agency (tel: 28210 92122, mob: 697403 4453) is familiar with walkers’ needs in relation to remote trailheads and advance luggage transfers.
TAXI AVAILABILITY
Chania
Chania airport, Chania bus station exit west side, Plateia 1866 east side, Plateia Makris Kritis west side.
Vrisses (on the main road to Rethymnon)
Taxi drivers of this village are usually unavailable as they tend to work at Georgioupoli, a busy coastal resort further east on the main road. Taxi drivers from Vamos often fill in.
Rethymnon
Taxis regularly drive by the entrance to the bus station and the main road above it; there is not enough space for a taxi rank.
Heraklion
There is a taxi rank and shelter to the right (west) of the Arrivals exit at the airport. Taxis regularly pass by the two bus stations, Knossos archaeological site and the city Archaeological Museum.
When to go
The island of Crete may be a Mediterranean beach holiday destination, but it does not have a particularly ‘easy’ climate. Extremes of temperature – including enervating heatwaves – high humidity, aggravating hot or cold winds, heavy rain and penetrating dampness, and days (or months) of snow in the mountains are all characteristic of the yearly round.
During spring and autumn temperatures for walking are usually pleasant but conditions are likely to be unsettled. From April to mid-June it could be cold and wet, fresh and sunny, or warm, overcast and humid – all within the space of 10 days. Normally temperatures, including sea temperatures, have warmed up considerably by June and should last until the end of October (outside of autumn deluges). In midsummer daytime temperatures of 28–33°C (80–90°F) are normal, and heatwaves can reach more than 40°C (104°F). Weather forecast websites can give you a good idea of what to expect over the dates of your trip (see Appendix D).
Heatwaves are very difficult to cope with as even just before dawn there is little respite. Look for accommodation with rooms (and balconies) that do not face south. Nowadays, hotels and most rooming houses on the coast provide air-conditioning units. The Omalos Plain and the mountain villages of Askifou, Imbros and Anopolis are cooler at night (and by day). For campers on the south coast of Sfakia, the Samaria Gorge river estuary beside Ay. Roumeli offers sea breezes and shady pine trees and, in a good year, some freshwater bathing.
A group heading for Zaranokefala stocks up with water in the Potamos Valley (Trek 7)
The high mountains get breezes – plan high-level walks (perhaps not Walk 42 because it is in pine forest and so vulnerable to fires) and long midday breaks. When it is extremely hot choose to walk only in the Gorge of Samaria for its plentiful shade and reliable water points. Be aware of the danger of heat exhaustion or, worse, heatstroke. Visit the NHS website (Appendix D) for information on this. Hopefully extreme temperatures will not occur during the best ‘walking months’ of spring and autumn.
Psiloritis has no coastline although Matala, a scenically interesting resort on the Bay of Messara, is within easy reach by bus from Mires. Either side of Matala Bay walkers can find crags and unfrequented walking terrain. However, inland at Zaros – where there are gushing aqueducts and a pleasant freshwater lake (for fish, not swimming), the mid-priced Hotel Idi, with an outdoor pool and shady trees, could be the best place to linger (unless you have already escaped to high level). Lassithi has always been a refuge from the summer heat. Two or three villages of the plateau offer accommodation.
Rainfall
December, January and February are rated the wettest months, but three-day periods of rain, and snow blizzards above 1000m, may occur as late as mid-June. At summer’s end the hot weather should break in stages as from late September, but this can vary. After bursts of rain and thunder storms, fine weather should return, making October a good month for walking. Sea temperatures remain warm until after the second period of autumn rain. Daylight hours are shorter, but sufficient for a good day out. Snow may cover the mountains from the end of November; the thaw should be well advanced by mid-April.
Wind
Crete lies in the path of various winds that can change the weather in half a day. A long-lasting warm south wind in spring will thaw the snow too quickly, resulting in quite spectacular natural erosion in the gorges. Similarly, localised flash flooding from thunderstorms sometimes occurs