walkers, but often are.
Confusingly, some cycle routes have been given numbers which may appear on your map but are different from our system. For example, the Cesta Slobody route is 007, and our Blue 2902B up to Popradské Pleso is shown on some maps as 2866 – we suggest you ignore the cycle route numbers!
Of course, some walkers may wish to try a bit of cycling for a change – bicycles can be hired locally (see page 163). A map of cycle routes is available from tourist offices, and they are shown on a board opposite the bus station in Starý Smokovec.
Terrain unsuitable for mountain bikes! – looking towards Lomnický Štít on the way down from Jahňací Štít (Yellow 8861) (photo: R Turnbull)
Tatranská Bora
Nearly every year, many trees on both sides of the border are flattened by violent winds: in Slovakia they are called calamitá (plural calamity) and come from the north in winter; in Poland halna (plural halny) and arrive from the south in spring and autumn. However, in 2004 something even worse than a calamity struck the Slovak Tatras. On Friday 19 December at around 3.30pm, without warning, a monstrous gale from the west tore up the Tatras slopes through the hamlet of Nadbanské, gathering speed as it crossed the shoulder to the south of Štrbské Pleso. Whipping through the forest-zone villages, including Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica, and the mountain slopes around them, by the time this cataclysm reached Skalnaté Pleso its windspeed had been measured by the astronomical observatory there at almost 200kph (125mph) – way above hurricane force (130kph). The last time such a phenomenon had been recorded was in 1922. It is known as the Tatranská Bora, caused by a rare combination of climatic conditions, and the accepted wisdom is that it occurs only once a century – this one was early.
By 5.30pm the Bora had subsided after passing through Tatranská Kotlina, but during those two hours it left behind a scene of such horrendous devastation that nearly every tree in its path had been smashed down between the altitudes of 770m and 1250m. In fact more than half of the total forested area in Slovakia’s Tatras National Park (24,000 of 46,000 hectares) had been totally or partially destroyed. In some places a lone spruce stood defiantly erect, or pathetically leaned eastwards at 45 degrees.
Mercifully there were no major human casualties on that traumatic evening, and surprisingly little structural damage. Even so, with deep snow, every road blocked, many bridges destroyed, telephone lines severed and mobile phone relay masts out of action, it took two days for news of the disaster to reach the outside world. Movement within the area was almost impossible, and indeed dangerous – one person was killed by a falling tree on the following day.
Slavkovský Štít from Cesta Slobody, with one of the teams clearing up after the Tatranská Bora
Teams (such as the one in the photograph opposite) worked around the clock to remove trees and rootstocks, and for some time afterwards processions of lorries and trains were seen taking Tatras timber away to wherever a market for it could be found. It took seven months to fully restore the local train services.
Although the situation caused by the Bora itself turned out to be not as bad as originally feared, many more trees were later either destroyed by fire or infected by a species of bark beetle, which found the new microclimate very much to its liking. There was much debate about what should happen to land left bare of trees. Many thought that it should be left open, as some grand vistas had been opened up that were previously hidden by tree cover. There were even proposals for new golf courses. Eventually it was decided to replace most of the trees with a mixture of coniferous and deciduous varieties, and some 2.7 million had been replanted by 2010, though they will take 20 years to reach maturity. In some areas, such as Tichá Dolina and Kôprová Dolina, fallen trees have been left in place to create wildlife habitats, and these areas will be left to regenerate naturally.
There is a monument to the event in the centre of Starý Smokovec, and smaller memorials in the area record donations of replacement trees by various organisations, including one at Horný Smokovec for a donation made by Rotary International.
Route suggestions
Waymarked network
Sections marked (ê) include at least one fixed chain or wire, and/or some scrambling. All start and finish points are served by public transport.
For routes starting or finishing in Štrbské Pleso, see gazetteer (page 187) for a description of the route between station and tarn, where the waymarks start.
1 PODBANSKÉ – TICHÁ DOLINA – HLADKÉ SEDLO – KÔPROVÁ DOLINA – PODBANSKÉ (940m–1994m)
| Grade | The walking is moderate but the distance is strenuous |
| Distance | 31.5km |
| Average gradient | 7% |
| Height gain | 1054m |
| Height loss | 1054m |
| Time | 8h |
| Refreshments | Podbanské |
Uses easy access routes, with short moderate ascents to Hladké Sedlo on the border, which has a magnificent view of the beautiful Valley of Five Polish Tarns. As a circular route it is best done in the direction described, providing a more direct return to Podbanské. Hladké Sedlo can be reached more easily by going in the opposite direction and returning by the same route, with an optional short diversion to Nižné Temnosmrečinské Pleso.
From Podbanské bus stop, follow these path sections:
Yellow 8851 11km N along Tichá Dolina to Rázcestie pod Tomanovou Dolinou
Red 0931 7km E to Sedlo Závory and Hladké Sedlo, returning to Sedlo Závory
Green 5801 2.5km S to Rázcestie pod Hlinskou Dolinou
Blue 2902A 6km SW to Rázcestie pod Grúnikom
Green 5802 3.5km W to Tichá
Yellow 8851 1.5km SW to Podbanské
2 ŠTRBSKÉ PLESO – JAMSKÉ PLESO – TRI STUDNIČKY – PODBANSKÉ (940m–1447m)
| Grade | Easy |
| Distance | 13.5km |
| Average gradient | 5% |
| Height gain | 185m |
| Height loss | 600m |
| Time | 3h 45m |
| Refreshments | Štrbské Pleso, Podbanské |
Štrbské Pleso – the tarn and hotels
A gentle introduction, or wet-weather walk, including the delightful Jamské Pleso tarn and fine views over the Sub-Tatras Basin.
From Štrbské Pleso station follow:
Red 0930F 4.5km NW to Jamské Pleso then 3.5km W to Tri Studničky
Red 0930G 5.5km W to Podbanské
3 ŠTRBSKÉ PLESO – KRIVÁŇ – TRI STUDNIČKY (1194m–2494m)
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Distance | 12km |
| Average gradient | 20% |
| Height gain | 1139m |
| Height loss | 1300m |
| Time | 6h 15m |
| Refreshments | Štrbské Pleso |
A well-used route with no fixed chain, but some scrambling, to one of the most popular summits – Kriváň, national symbol of Slovakia.
From Štrbské Pleso station follow:
Red 0930F 4.5km NW to Jamské Pleso (turn off shortly before lake)
Blue 2903 (
Green 5803B 3.5km SW to Tri Studničky
4 ŠTRBSKÉ PLESO – KÔPROVSKY Štít – TRI STUDNIČKY (1194m–2363m)
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Distance | 25km |
| Average
|