Torside facilities are limited to the Old House, which offers a tearoom during the day, then B&B and bunkhouse accommodation in the evening. The proprietors are willing to run guests to and from the nearby village of Padfield for pub meals, while the bunkhouse has a self-catering kitchen. Padfield also offers a small choice of B&B accommodation. Weekend buses link Torside with Glossop and Holmfirth.
DAY 2
Torside to Standedge
| Start | The Old House, Torside, SK 049 978 |
| Finish | A62 road, Standedge, SE 018 095 |
| Alternative finish | Diggle, SE 003 080 |
| Distance | 21km (13 miles); Diggle 23.5km (14½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 760m (2495ft) |
| Total descent | 620m (2035ft) |
| Time | 6hrs 30mins; 7hrs 15mins |
| Terrain | Mostly moorland walking, with several stretches on flagstone paths, but a couple of wet and boggy areas too. One stretch uses firm tracks and paths through a valley, passing reservoirs. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 110, OS Explorer OL1, Harvey’s Pennine Way South |
| Refreshments | Campsite shop off-route at Crowden. Snoopy’s snack van might be parked at Wessenden Head. Pub off-route at Standedge and other pubs well off-route at Marsden and Diggle. |
Black Hill once had a fearsome reputation among Pennine wayfarers, with its broad top covered in deep black bogs that were desperately over-trodden. The hill now bears a long line of firm flagstones. The ‘black’ has gone, replaced by ‘green’ as the whole top has been re-vegetated. The Pennine Way ‘main’ route originally headed directly to Standedge across truly appalling bogs, with an ‘alternative’ seeking firmer ground via Wessenden. These days, there is only one designated route, which runs via Wessenden. Standedge is completely lacking facilities, so walkers must detour off-route to find food, drink and lodgings, either on foot or by catching a bus.
Leave the Old House and walk back along the road to find Pennine Way signposts. Turn left along a tarmac path, which quickly reaches a track, where a sharp left turn leads down a short tarmac road. This gives way to a track across the dam of Torside Reservoir, overlooking Rhodeswood Reservoir. There are five reservoirs in Longdendale: Bottoms, Valehouse, Rhodeswood, Torside and Woodhead. Climb stone steps from the reservoir dam and cross a track to spot a Pennine Way signpost. Turn right to follow a path through a belt of pine trees between Torside Reservoir and a busy road. After passing through a gate, turn left up some steps.
The curious cascading outflow of Torside Reservoir
Cross the busy A628 road and turn right through a gate. A narrow traffic-free tarmac road runs gently uphill through gates. When it runs downhill through a gate, the Pennine Way is signposted off to the left. Those wishing to visit Crowden should walk straight ahead here down the road.
Crowden is barely 500 metres (¼ mile) off-route, however, facilities are limited to a campsite, following the closure of a long-standing youth hostel. Food supplies are limited to whatever the campsite shop stocks. The main road has a National Express coach service linking Manchester and Sheffield. If starting from Crowden, walk up the narrow road from the river and turn right as signposted for the Pennine Way.
The path rises through gates to reach a small memorial plantation on the hillside. Beyond are slopes of bracken, where the path becomes awkward due to stones protruding from the ground. Heather and bilberry are apparent as the path passes below Black Tor, where a quarried edge bears patchy woodland. The path undulates and crosses a stream, then climbs steeply up a rugged, bracken-clad slope. When the path levels out, there are fine views along the valley. The climb becomes steep and rugged again, crossing Oaken Clough to pick up a stone-pitched path up to the edge of heather moorland.
A narrow path wanders along the top of Laddow Rocks, occasionally offering views of gritstone crags that were once popular with rock climbers, but are rarely climbed these days. The crag doesn’t look too dramatic, but keep looking back to spot one part that features an overhang. The path rises to around 500m (1640ft), then descends gradually across a slope of grass and bilberry, becoming boggy and over-trodden as it runs parallel to Crowden Great Brook.
Step across a tributary and walk parallel to the main stream on a firm path. Cross another tributary, then when the main stream bites into a shale bank, cross and re-cross the flow to continue. If there is too much water to ford safely, climb over the shale bank and pick up the path later. The path becomes wet and boggy and walkers sometimes detour too far from the stream, thereby missing the start of a firm, dry flagstone path. This pulls away from the stream, leading to a stile over a fence on Grains Moss.
Simply follow the flagstone path straight up a grassy, rushy slope polka-dotted with bog cotton in early summer. Cross a boggy rise at Dun Hill, then the flagstones end for a while. A firm path passes peat hags that have been stabilised against erosion. Another length of flagstones leads over the broad moorland summit of Black Hill, passing through a pool of water at one point, reaching a trig point with a flagstone ‘patio’ around it at 582m (1908ft).
Black Hill was once covered in a vast expanse of bare black peat
The summit of Black Hill was for many years trodden to death, until not even a blade of grass remained. The bog was so over-trodden that it was often impossible to reach the trig point, which stood on a firm ‘island’ known as Soldier’s Lump. The name derived from a time when Ordnance Survey ‘sappers’ set up camp on the hill while surveying the land. The trig point they planted on the summit was close to collapse after the wholesale erosion of peat in recent decades, but it has been stoutly buttressed. The ‘Moors For The Future’ project (www.moorsforthefuture.org.uk) has successfully re-vegetated the summit of Black Hill with grass, bog cotton, heather and bilberry. The Pennine Way originally left the summit in two directions, but has now been confined to a single firm, dry, erosion-proof line across the moors.
Follow the flagstone path onwards, as it gently undulates across the moor. When the flagstones end, a firm path continues downhill with good views eastwards. When another flagstone path is reached, it swings left to pass grouse butts, where heather dominates over grass, bilberry and bog cotton. The path undulates gently, then features a short, steep descent and ascent while crossing Dean Clough. There is no bridge, so fording after heavy rain will mean wet feet. A lesser stream, rusty red in colour, is crossed before the path climbs to the busy A635, or Isle of Skye Road, at Wessenden Head.
Ashley Jackson’s ‘Framing the Landscape’ at Wessenden Head
Turn right to follow the road with care. If Snoopy’s snack van is parked, you could take a break for food and drink, and lament the fact that a nearby ruin was once a pub called the Isle of Skye. Turn left up the minor road signposted for Meltham and Huddersfield. Turn left down through a gate to follow a track straight down to Wessenden Head Reservoir. There is a fine view down the valley to another reservoir, and a house among trees, with the distinctive profile of Pule Hill beyond. The land from here to White Hill (Day 3) makes up the extensive National Trust Marsden Moor Estate.
RESERVOIR COUNTRY
The Wessenden reservoirs – Wessenden Head, Wessenden, Blakely and Butterley – drop one after another in a narrow valley. Construction was financed by a consortium of Marsden mill owners, whose mills were located beside the River Colne. The reservoirs were completed in 1800, shortly after the opening of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal. The mill owners jealously guarded their water supply and weren’t keen for any of it to be used