passing parked cars, be aware of the size of their doors, and allow sufficient room for one to open without knocking you off if they open as you pass.
Know who has right of way at junctions: in simple terms, if your movement will make you cross the straight-ahead path of someone else at a junction, then you normally have to give way to them. So if you’re exiting from a minor road, you have to give way to road users on the major road. If you’re turning right from a major road into a minor road, you have to give way to other users on the major road coming towards you, but you usually have right of way over someone turning out of the minor road. Again, if in doubt get some tuition – many county councils now offer a few hours’ free rider instruction by qualified cycling instructors.
Always be aware of other traffic around you, and look before making any changes to your direction or forward progress. That includes listening: your ears are surprisingly sensitive to direction and speed of other traffic. Earphones can be particularly dangerous for blocking out this sense of traffic.
Make sure you signal your intentions clearly and with plenty of time for other road users to see you and what you intend to do.
Always expect the unexpected!
What to wear
Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid racing team colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not essential to your pedalling enjoyment, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable. It is, however, fair to say that on multi-day tours the advantage of Lycra for speed of washing and overnight drying can’t be beaten. (Even if racing team adverts adorning it are entirely unnecessary!)
Jacket
The weather can change notoriously quickly in the Peak District, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can very rapidly become windy and wet. A lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather much more bearable. If it’s in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, this can make you more visible on-road to other motorists in sudden downpours or poor light. Being breathable is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.
Cycling shorts
Cycling-specific (padded) shorts make the effort of cycling much more comfortable – particularly for those new to cycling or on longer routes. These only used to be available in close-fitting Lycra, but these days mountain biking versions in other fabrics can be much more stylish and loose-fitting. Many cyclists wouldn’t ride without them! Many also suggest that these should be worn ‘commando-style’ (without underwear); if this doesn’t appeal, then one secret to making underwear work under cycling shorts is to ensure it’s a wicking fabric (not cotton), side-seam free and with smooth edges.
Looking down towards the Harrop and Colne valleys from moorland above the Standedge cutting (Route 19; TdPD, Day 3)
Cycling gloves
These can make your arms more comfortable (especially gloves with gel-filled patches) – particularly on off-road sections, where vibrations through the handlebars are more intense – and will protect fingers to some extent if you’re unlucky enough to come off the bike.
Sunglasses/shades
These are extremely useful – even on a rainy day. As well as reducing glare from bright or low sun, they also keep flying insects, mud and driving rain out of the eyes. Some mountain-bikers wear ‘clear’ shades on every ride, just to keep the mud out of their eyes.
Breathable upper and lower layers
Enough for the time of year, little enough not to be overburdened – this is very much a personal preference, but a spare lightweight fleece or long-sleeved cycling top is often a good idea if setting out with minimal clothing. Rear pockets on cycling jerseys are surprisingly useful for stowing lightweight items that need to be accessed regularly, such as a route printout or packet of sweets.
Cycling shoes and SPD pedals
As you progress in your cycling and tackle longer and harder routes, you may find that clip-in (SPD) pedals become worthwhile. As well as holding the cyclist’s feet to the pedals on bouncy ground (which isn’t any benefit to a terrified novice but can be helpful to the experienced), these allow the rider to pull up with the feet on each revolution of the pedals as well as pushing down. This results in a more efficient use of energy – especially going uphill. To start with a pair of trainers with stiff soles will suffice (the stiffer the sole the better, as cycling a lot in flexible-soled shoes can lead to foot problems). Do make sure that any laces are securely tucked away from pedals though!
Adding SPD plates to specialist cycling shoes is best left until you’re sure it’s worth the outlay in money and the ‘getting used to’ time
What to take
Helmet
Although many hire centres will encourage you to wear a helmet, there is no requirement under UK law to wear one and this is entirely up to the individual rider to decide for themselves (although it is a particularly good idea for younger children, or if challenging your comfort zone on- or off-road).
Lock
A lock would be a good idea if you plan to leave your cycle unattended for longer periods of time, or in larger towns. Most indoor accommodation can usually provide somewhere reasonably secure to leave a cycle overnight (but do check before you book).
Toolkit
See Appendix D for more information.
Basic first aid kit
This should be just large enough to treat the basics if one of your party comes off their bike, without being overly heavy and cumbersome. For minor cuts, bruises and gravel rash, plenty of antiseptic wipes, antiseptic cream, plasters (various sizes), wound pads/dressings (5cm+ sizes), wound closure strips, small tweezers and painkillers should do the trick. Oh, and don’t forget some chocolate for the casualty to eat!
Water bottles
These (one or two, depending on route length) can be held in frame-mounted bottle cages.
Luggage
Although it is possible to carry day kit in a small rucksack, it is much more pleasant and comfortable to carry things in a handlebar bag, saddlebag, rear rack bag or panniers for larger loads. There is a growing trend for ‘bikepacking’ bags, which are smaller, more aerodynamic and lighter weight, but waterproofing is still rare and they are more awkward to access during the ride.
Handlebar bags with a clear top pocket to carry a map can be very useful. However, a combination of small waterproof pouch on the bar stem for a mobile phone (with electronic GPX route/map), plus a small barbag and/or a small ‘tri’ (triathlon) bag mounted above or below the top tube for snacks and other small items may now be a better option.
All luggage should be properly and securely fitted using appropriate brackets, with panniers also requiring a rear rack. Beware of wheels becoming snagged by loose straps or floppy panniers.
Maps
Hawthorn tree standing above limestone dales near Monsal Head (above Route 11)
Whereas paper maps used to be the norm for cycling, these days it’s hard to argue against electronic mapping on a smartphone – such as that provided by the Viewranger app (from app stores or www.viewranger.com/en-gb) or Memory Map (www.memory-map.co.uk). Both Ordnance Survey (OS) and OpenMapping (OpenCycleMap