Paddy Dillon

Trekking in Mallorca


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and tracks, sometimes cut through solid rock and often built laboriously by hand. Some of the paths were engineered as zigzagging mule tracks from village to village, and these are often quite plain and obvious to follow. Others were made to exploit woodlands for charcoal, so they tend to fan out among dense woodlands, with many spurs reaching dead-ends. On these tracks it is necessary to pay careful attention to maps and route descriptions, confirming your location at every junction before making the next move. Even when the signposting and waymarking is good, remember that markers can go missing.

      Conditions underfoot range from bare rock to well-paved stretches. There are also some uncomfortably stony sections, or paths that run through deeply eroded gullies. Leaf-mould can obscure uneven surfaces, so tread carefully. Some mountainsides are covered in huge grassy tussocks of càrritx. Walkers quickly learn to high-step through càrritx, because stepping onto the tough fronds can cause the other foot to be caught as it is swung forward!

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      The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 4)

      Kit check

      Think carefully about the gear you plan to carry and keep your pack light. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so think carefully when choosing footwear and socks.

      Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs may only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses.

      Water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too. If trekking along the GR221 and using hotel accommodation, little is needed apart from normal day-walking kit and a change of clothes. If using the refugis, add a wash-kit and towel, and maybe a sleeping bag, although bedding can be hired.

      Backpackers should remember that there is only one campsite on the route. Carrying heavy loads in hot weather is exhausting, so if planning to wild-camp in the mountains, ensure that all your kit is lightweight, and that you are self-sufficient in food and water for overnight stops. Weather conditions in summer are seldom severe, but in winter be prepared for cold nights and wetter weather. Always know where the next shops are located on the route, resupplying as necessary and avoiding carrying too much too far.

      Until 1995 there was only a voluntary mountain rescue service on Mallorca, but now there are two professional teams: one from the fire service, or Bombers, tel 080 or 112, and the other from the Guardia Civil, tel 062 or 112. There are three police forces: the Policía Local wear blue uniforms and are attached to local municipalities; the Policía Nacional wear brown uniforms; and the Guardia Civil wear green uniforms and are often seen in rural areas. All three police forces may be called upon in an emercency, tel 112.

      Mountain rescue is free of charge and unfortunately has been kept very busy. Getting a message out in an emergency is not always easy. Mobile phones may not get a good signal on some parts of the GR221, and time lost trying to get a signal can be crucial.

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      GR221 signposts are often added to signposts in towns and villages

      Carry a first aid kit to deal with the usual cuts, scrapes and blisters. For other health issues, there are pharmacies in the towns and most villages. If any regular medication is needed, include it in your pack. If a doctor or a trip to a hospital is required, there may be costs involved, and an insurance policy with good medical cover is recommended. Best of all, walk safely and avoid suffering any injuries.

      This guidebook offers all the information you need to organise a successful trek along the GR221, or any of its alternative routes, whether the route is fully waymarked or not. Information produced by the Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook breaks it into 10 daily stages, ensuring that time is available to explore interesting places, such as Valldemossa and Deià. Feel free to adapt and amend the schedule, based on the availability of accommodation and useful bus services.

      If walking from refugi to refugi, remember that it is best to book them in advance. The same applies to hotels, although it is often possible to turn up unannounced and secure a bed, if one is available. For food and drink, keep reading ahead through the guidebook to discover where shops, bars and restaurants are located, and be sure to buy provisions to cover for long stages that lack refreshment.

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