(Avenue Verte, Stage 4) while Camembert (from lower Normandy), Brie (from the Marne valley) and Maroilles (from Picardy) are produced nearby. All are soft, creamy cows’ milk cheeses with blooming edible rinds. One way of serving cheese is le welsh, a northern French take on welsh rarebit consisting of ham and grilled cheese on toast often topped with an egg. Normandy and the Bray have orchards producing apples, pears and cherries from which fruit tarts such as tarte tatin are produced.
What to drink
In Normandy apples are used to produce cider
Both England and France are beer and wine consuming countries. In England beer sales are declining but wine is growing, while in France wine is declining and beer growing.
Although France is predominantly a wine drinking country, beer (bière) is widely consumed, particularly in the north. Draught beer (une pression) is usually available in two main styles: blonde (European style lager) or blanche (partly cloudy wheat beer). Most of this is produced by large breweries such as Kronenbourg and Stella Artois but there are an increasing number of small artisanal breweries producing beer for local consumption. No wine is produced commercially in northern France, although wine from all French vineyard regions is readily available. Cidre (cider) and calvados (apple brandy) are produced in Haute Normandy, while Bénédictine liqueur comes from Basse Normandy.
All the usual soft drinks (colas, lemonade, fruit juices, mineral waters) are widely available.
Amenities and services
For a breakdown of facilities en route, see Appendix A. This list is not exhaustive but provides an indication of the services available.
Grocery shops
All cities, towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often supermarkets, and most have pharmacies. In France, almost every village has a boulangerie (bakery) that is open from early morning and bakes fresh bread several times a day.
Cycle shops
Most towns have cycle shops with repair facilities. Locations are listed in the stage descriptions, although this is not exhaustive. Many cycle shops will adjust brakes and gears, or lubricate your chain, while you wait, often not seeking reimbursement for minor repairs. Touring cyclists should not abuse this generosity and always offer to pay, even if this is refused.
Currency and banks
The currency of France is the Euro. Almost every town has a bank and most have ATM machines which enable you to make transactions in English. However very few offer over-the-counter currency exchange. In London, Paris and port towns (Dover, Folkestone, Newhaven, Calais and Dieppe) there are commercial exchange bureau but in other locations the only way to obtain currency is to use ATM machines to withdraw cash from your personal account or from a prepaid travel card. Contact your bank to activate your bank card for use in Europe or put cash on a travel card. Travellers’ cheques are rarely used.
Telephone and internet
The whole route has mobile phone coverage. Contact your network provider to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use with the optimum price package. International dialling codes are +44 for UK and +33 for France.
Almost all hotels, guest houses and hostels, and many restaurants, make internet access available to guests, usually free of charge.
Electricity
Voltage is 220v, 50HzAC. Plugs in Britain are three-pin square while in France standard European two-pin round plugs are used. Adaptors are widely available to convert both ways.
What to take
Clothing and personal items
Even though the route is not mountainous there are some undulating sections crossing chalk downland and consequently weight should be kept to a minimum. You will need clothes for cycling (shoes, socks, shorts/trousers, shirt, fleece, waterproofs) and clothes for evenings and days off. The best maxim is two of each, ‘one to wear, one to wash’. Time of year makes a difference as you need more and warmer clothing in April/May and September/October. All of this clothing should be capable of being washed en route, and a small tube or bottle of travel wash is useful. A sun hat and sun glasses are essential, while gloves and a woolly hat are advisable except in high summer.
In addition to your usual toiletries you will need sun cream and lip salve. You should take a simple first-aid kit. If staying in hostels you will need a towel and torch (your cycle light should suffice).
Cycle equipment
A fully equipped cycle
Everything you take needs to be carried on your cycle. If overnighting in accommodation, a pair of rear panniers should be sufficient to carry all your clothing and equipment, although if camping, you may also need front panniers. Panniers should be 100 per cent watertight. If in doubt, pack everything inside a strong polythene lining bag. Rubble bags, obtainable from builders’ merchants, are ideal for this purpose. A bar-bag is a useful way of carrying items you need to access quickly such as maps, sunglasses, camera, spare tubes, puncture-kit and tools. A transparent map case attached to the top of your bar-bag is an ideal way of displaying maps and guide book.
Your cycle should be fitted with mudguards and bell, and be capable of carrying water bottles, pump and lights. Many cyclists fit an odometer to measure distances. A basic tool-kit should consist of puncture repair kit, spanners, Allen keys, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, spoke key and chain repair tool. The only essential spares are two spare tubes. On a long cycle ride, sometimes on dusty tracks, your chain will need regular lubrication and you should either carry a can of spray-lube or make regular visits to cycle shops. A strong lock is advisable.
Safety and emergencies
Weather
The whole route is in the cool temperate zone with warm summers, cool winters and year-round moderate rainfall. Daily weather patterns are highly variable.
Road safety
Where there is no cycle lane, motorists and cyclists are urged partageons la route (share the road)
While in England cycling is on the left, in France it is on the right side of the road. If you have never cycled before on the right you will quickly adapt, but roundabouts may prove challenging. You are most prone to mistakes when setting off each morning.
France is a very cycle-friendly country. Drivers will normally give you plenty of space when overtaking and often wait patiently behind until space is available to pass. Much of the route is on dedicated cycle paths, although care is necessary as these are sometimes shared with pedestrians. Use your bell, politely, when approaching pedestrians from behind. Where you are required to cycle on the road there is often a dedicated cycle lane.
Many city and town centres have pedestrian-only zones. These restrictions are often only loosely enforced and you may find locals cycling within them, indeed many zones have signs allowing cycling. One-way streets in France often have signs permitting contra-flow cycling.
Neither England nor France require compulsory wearing of cycle helmets, although their use is recommended.
Emergencies
In the unlikely event of an accident, the standardised EU emergency phone number is 112. The entire route has mobile phone coverage. Provided you have an EHIC card issued by your home country, medical costs of EU citizens are covered under reciprocal health insurance agreements, although you may have to pay for an ambulance and claim the cost back through insurance.
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