Walking in the Brianconnais. Andrew McCluggage

to continue uphill (SE). The path soon arrives back at the ravine and here the path splits – keep right to climb parallel to the ravine for a few moments. The path then crosses the ravine to pick up a path on the other side, heading S.

      Shortly after crossing the ravine, the path bears around to the left – ignore a faint path here to the right heading S. Yellow waymarks will confirm that you are on the correct route. After 5min, arrive at another junction of paths – keep straight ahead (S) still following yellow waymarks.

      Eventually, the path arrives at a fork and two signs (2hr): turn left, following a sign for ‘Dormillouse’ up the N side of the Ravin de la Lauze. As you climb, the views into the Clarée Valley become better and better. Watch your footing as the rocky path is narrow and unstable in places.

      Where the path meets the base of the ravine and disappears, head straight up the N edge of the ravine (following cairns) and after a minute find the path again on your left (heading W). After another 5min, ignore a path on the left by a cairn and keep straight ahead (E), following yellow waymarks.

      Where the path meets a little ravine, cross over and scramble up the other side towards a cairn. At the time of writing, there had been a small landslide here making the path tricky to follow. From here on, the rocky path becomes hard to follow in places so concentration is essential.

      Where the path arrives at a junction of faint paths (3hr), turn left, signposted ‘Col de Dormillouse’. Red waymarks guide you here. Soon the path leaves the grass to climb initially W up a rocky slope. The path zigzags up the face of the slope until finally, it passes below a rocky outcrop and then proceeds N to Col de Dormillouse (2445m, 3hr 30min). The magnificent views extend to the N down the Vallon de l’Opon and to the E and S you can gaze up to the jagged lines of the Crête de la Lauze. The col is flanked to the W by the Crête de Pécé and to the E by the Pic du Lauzin.

      The view N from the Col de Dormillouse

      You are on the GR5 here and, should you be feeling particularly energetic, you could follow it to the SE up to the Col de la Lauze. From there you could follow the ridge to the S to the Tête des Fournéous and then descend down to the Bergerie de Dormillouse to rejoin the walk. This variant is stunning but would add approximately 3hr to the walk.

      From the col, take a path heading SE. After a few metres head S down a grassy spur towards the base of the grassy valley below. Keep heading S along the base of the valley. When you catch a glimpse of a shepherds’ cabin below to the S, make your way towards it. The path is intermittent but the grassy terrain is straightforward.

      An old shepherd’s cabin below the Col de Dormillouse

      Arrive at the stone building of la Bergerie de Dormillouse (4hr). The views from the bergerie into the Clarée Valley are beautiful. Nearby are more recent huts. The difference between what shepherds use today and the old stone huts is stark.

      Pass to the right of the bergerie and descend the grassy slope to the SW – watch where you place your feet as there are a lot of marmot burrows here.

      Upon reaching the Ravin de la Lauze again, cross over and pick up a small path heading down the S side of the ravine. The path is faint at times but there are plenty of red and black waymarks. Eventually the path moves away from the middle of the ravine and heads into the forest.

      When the path emerges from the trees onto a grassy plateau (4hr 30min), with fabulous views of the Clarée Valley, keep descending, passing to the left of an old stone ruin. Shortly after the ruin, the path bears around to the N and enters the trees again. After a few minutes, arrive at a junction of paths – turn left and descend on a small path.

      Eventually, the path emerges from the trees and works its way along the base of some cliffs – the path here is narrow in places and there are steep drops, so be careful. Then the path zigzags S down the slope and enters the trees again. Finally, the path arrives at a track – turn right and immediately afterwards, turn left (W) to descend on a path. Where the path meets another faint track, turn right and continue downhill back to the car park (5hr 30min).

      EMILIE CARLES

      Emilie Carles, the most famous resident of the Clarée Valley, was born in 1900 into a peasant farming family. Her mother died when she was four and she managed to juggle strenuous farm work, helping to look after her family and trying to attend school to gain an education. The Clarée Valley in those days was remote and bitterly poor and opportunities for advancement for its children were few and far between. Against all odds, Emilie managed to qualify as a teacher and taught in a number of impoverished peasant farming communities throughout the Haute Alpes before returning to Val-des-Prés. She loved the Clarée Valley with all her heart and spent the rest of her life here.

      In 1977 she published her memoirs, in the French language, to popular acclaim. Une Soupe aux Herbes Sauvages was published in English in 1991 as A Wild Herb Soup – The life of a French Countrywoman.