Stage 16 Mainz to Bacharach
Stage 17 Bacharach to Koblenz
Stage 18 Koblenz to Remagen
Stage 19 Remagen to Köln
Niederrhein (Lower Rhine)
Stage 20 Köln to Düsseldorf
Stage 21 Düsseldorf to Duisburg
Stage 22 Duisburg to Xanten
Stage 23 Xanten to Arnhem
Delta Rijn (Rhine Delta)
Stage 24 Arnhem to Wijk bij Duurstede
Stage 25 Wijk bij Duurstede to Schoonhoven
Stage 26 Schoonhoven to Rotterdam
Stage 27 Rotterdam to Hoek van Holland
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Facilities summary table
Appendix C Tourist offices
Appendix D Youth hostels
Appendix E Useful contacts
Appendix F Language glossary
Bodensee radweg in Meersburg, with Altes Burg castle behind (Stage 5)
PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION
This edition has been substantially revised to incorporate new maps and a number of re-routings, mostly to make use of cycle tracks along recently opened stretches of flood dyke, particularly from Sennwald to Au (Stage 4), Hamm to Oppenheim (Stage 15) and Orsoy to Ossenberg (Stage 22). Other changes reflect recognition by the European Cyclists’ Federation (ECF) of the Rhine Cycle Route as EuroVèlo route EV15 and re-signposting through France to accommodate this. The opening of a TGV (high-speed) rail line between Dijon and Mulhouse has made Switzerland accessible from Paris in just three hours. This has improved access from the UK by making it possible to reach Andermatt in the Swiss Alps in one day by train from London. The list of tourist information offices has been extended to include all offices encountered including those with seasonal opening periods and limited hours.
Popularity of the route continues to grow, with an increasing number of cyclists following the whole route from source to sea. Shorter rides are increasing in popularity too, particularly around Bodensee and through the Rhine gorge between Mainz and Koblenz. The author would like to thank all those readers who have cycled the route using previous editions and sent in comments about route alterations and changes to facilities. Where relevant these have been incorporated into the text.
The Wasserturm is the symbol of Mannheim (Stage 14)
INTRODUCTION
Werdenberg, the smallest town in Switzerland (Stage 4)
The great attraction of following a river from source to sea is that it is downhill all the way (well, almost all the way – our route does occasionally climb a little for spectacular views down into the valley). From the summit of Oberalppass (which can be reached by cycle-friendly train), near the source of the river at Lai da Tuma, the Rhine Cycle Route descends 2046m to the North Sea at Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland), a distance of 1372km. The cycling is straightforward, with much of the route following well-surfaced cycle tracks, often along the riverbank or flood dykes. On those occasions where roads are used, these are usually quiet country routes with dedicated cycle lanes. All the countries it passes through are highly cycle-friendly, and motorists will generally give you plenty of room. This route is suitable both for experienced long-distance cyclists and those who have done only a little cycle touring and wish to attempt something more adventurous.
The route mostly follows Swiss, German, French and Dutch national cycle trails, with a high standard of waymarking throughout. This guide breaks the route into 27 stages, averaging 51km per stage. A fit cyclist, covering two stages per day, should be able to complete the trip in two weeks. A more leisurely 80km per day would allow for some sightseeing and you would still complete the journey in 17 days. You can break the journey at almost any point as there are many places to stay along the way. These are suitable for all budgets, varying from 40 Hostelling International youth hostels and many backpacker hostels to B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels. If you do not mind the extra weight of camping gear, there are many official campsites.
The Rhine is rightly one of the world’s greatest rivers and one of the most visited by tourists. Many travel by boat, disembarking only at tourist honey-pots and eating international food on-board. By cycling the length of the river you will have a different perspective, passing through smaller towns, meeting local people and eating local food. English is widely spoken, almost universally in Switzerland and the Netherlands.
This is a journey of variety. Passing through six countries (Switzerland, Germany, France and the Netherlands, with short sections in Liechtenstein and Austria) you will be exposed to much of the geography, history, culture and economic success of Western Europe.
From the Rhine’s upper reaches in Switzerland, surrounded by high Alpine mountains, our route passes the tiny principality of Liechtenstein to reach Bodensee (Lake Constance), Western Europe’s second largest natural lake. On the shores of Bodensee are the Austrian festival town of Bregenz, where open-air opera is presented every summer on a stage over the water, and Friedrichshafen, home to the Zeppelin. Beyond the lake is Rheinfall, continental Europe’s largest waterfall by volume of water. Below here the river flows through an attractive wooded valley between the Black Forest and the Jura mountains, passing a series of unspoilt medieval towns. After Basel, the route turns north through French Alsace, an area much fought over, with many remnants of successive wars. Then it is on past the French gastronomic centre of Strasbourg, the great industrial cities of Karlsruhe and Mannheim/Ludwigshafen, and the imperial cities and religious centres of Speyer, Worms and Mainz, before reaching the barrier of the Taunus and Hunsrück mountains. The Rhine Gorge, cutting between these ranges, is the most spectacular stage of all, lined with fairy-tale castles and award-winning vineyards. Halfway through is the infamous Loreley rock. Continuing between the dormant volcanic Eifel and Siebengebirge ranges, where an active geyser demonstrates the power of vulcanism, the Rhine emerges onto the North German plain.
The route continues to Bonn, past the Bundeshaus (where the West German parliament sat 1949–99) and Beethoven’s birthplace, then on to Köln (Cologne), which with over one million inhabitants is the largest city en route and site of the world’s second tallest cathedral spire. Then past Düsseldorf and through industrial Duisburg, which produces half of all German steel and is Europe’s largest inland port. For most of the way through this area, the river is followed, avoiding much of the intensive industrial development. Continuing through wide open flat agricultural land into the Netherlands, the river starts dividing to eventually reach the North Sea by way of five different channels. Our route follows one of these, the Lek, cycling on top of flood dykes with intensively farmed polders (drained land), lower than the river and reclaimed over many centuries, lining the river’s course. At Kinderdijk there are 19 surviving windmills of the type used to drain this land. The last great city is Rotterdam, rebuilt hurriedly after destruction in the Second World War and now being rebuilt again with much stunning modern architecture. On the opposite bank, between Rotterdam and the