Praise for 22 Walks in Bangkok
“Demonstrating an impressive command of the history of each neighbourhood of the old city of Bangkok at the grassroots level, Kenneth Barrett has written the first book in the English language that really introduces the districts of this culturally and architecturally diverse city. Written in lively prose, 22 Walks in Bangkok is both local history to be read at home, and heritage guide to be clutched in hand while exploring the back lanes of the city on foot.”
—James Stent, chairman, Siamese Heritage Trust of the Siam Society under Royal Patronage
“The metamorphosis of Bangkok from a water town to an overland
city in less than three generations left behind a trail of the unexpected and undecided in the urban fabric. Strolling in and out of the alleys of Bangkok with Kenneth Barrett will reveal the unlikely and the co-existence of the opposite in the built forms and lifestyle of the inhabitants.”
—Sumet Jumsai, architect
“The best way to truly get to know this city is on foot, and 22 Walks
in Bangkok is a book that opens historical windows to the past ... as well as telling how the city has become what it is today. For tourists as well as residents, this publication adds to the store of knowledge about Bangkok and offers a hands-on, foot-down way of getting to know the City of Angels.”—Naphalai Areesorn, editor-in-chief, Thailand Tatler
“I thought I knew Bangkok but Kenneth Barrett proved me wrong. He’s shown me a whole different side to the city that I never knew existed. It’s as if you’re walking through the city with a friend who has lived there his whole life.”
—Stephen Leather, author, Private Dancer
“My journalism thesis at university was an attempt to define New York as a multitude of neighbourhoods in search of a city. Kenneth Barrett has topped me in doing the same thing for messy Bangkok, a vast sprawl of unfocused energy I had always, until now, considered unwalkable. It takes a photographer’s eye to see all that he’s found and a writer’s skill to share it so engagingly.”
—Jerry Hopkins, author, Romancing the East
“Did you ever hear of a guidebook that reads like a novel? Well, pick up a copy of 22 Walks in Bangkok and that is what you will find. I couldn’t put the book down. The author has a wonderful way of making history come alive.”
—Harold Stephens, travel correspondent, Thai Airways
“22 Walks in Bangkok is a must-read guide for Bangkok aficionados. While no one person ‘knows’ a city the size and complexity of Bangkok, the author delivers a blueprint showing the depth and scale behind one of the world’s great mysterious cities.”
—Christopher G Moore, author of the Vincent Calvino Private Eye novels
“If you have the itch to explore Bangkok up close, on foot, then this book is undeniably essential reading packed with sure-footed pointers to see you through your pavement adventures.”
—Don Ross, editor, Travel Trade Reporter
“Bangkok has so many sides to it, and yet most visitors only get to see
a fraction of what is an absolutely fascinating city. This wonderful book will entice even long-term residents (like myself) to leave their cars behind and discover all kinds of curiosities and hidden attractions.”
—Colin Hastings, publisher, The BigChilli
“A long walk in sweltering Bangkok would appear a daft proposition, fit only for mad dogs and Englishmen. And it has taken a knowledgeable and persevering Englishman to piece together not one but 22 splendidly labyrinthine strolls littered with the sort of historical trivia that brings the city’s backstreets to life. Barrett’s investment in shoe leather has clearly paid off.”
—Vijay Verghese, editor, SmartTravelAsia.com
“Bangkok, Thailand’s gigantic and vibrant capital, is in a state of perpetual change. Underneath this relentless pursuit of renewal, in the shadow of chrome and glass skylines, lurks a traditional way of life and living, a quite separate world of temples, old residences and palaces, and small tightly-knit communities bordering quiet canals. Barrett’s book is a highly readable hands-on guide to the many historical back lanes and architectural gems that are too often missed in the sensory overload of neon lights, infinite shopping opportunities and gaudy nightlife.”
—Tom Vater, author, Sacred Skin: Thailand’s Spirit Tattoos
KENNETH BARRETT
22 WALKS
IN BANGKOK
EXPLORING THE CITY’S HISTORIC BACK LANES AND BY WAYS
TUTTLE Publishing
Tokyo | Rutland, Vermont | Singapore
Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd
Copyright © 2013 Kenneth Barrett
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-1380-0 (ebook)
Distributed by
North America, Latin America & Europe
Tuttle Publishing
364 Innovation Drive
North Clarendon, VT 05759-9436 U.S.A.
Tel: 1 (802) 773-8930
Fax: 1 (802) 773-6993
Japan
Tuttle Publishing
Yaekari Building, 3rd Floor
5-4-12 Osaki
Shinagawa-ku
Tokyo 141-0032
Tel: (81) 3 5437-0171
Fax: (81) 3 5437-0755
Asia Pacific
Berkeley Books Pte. Ltd.
61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12
Singapore 534167
Tel: (65) 6280-1330
Fax: (65) 6280-6290
16 15 14 13 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in Singapore 1311mp
TUTTLE PUBLISHING® is a registered trademark of Tuttle Publishing, a division of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
PART I: THONBURI
WALK 1 WONG WIAN YAI