from the top are commanding views that on a clear day extend as far as the islands in the Inland Sea.
The castle’s formidable defences were never put to the test, for they were constructed at the beginning of the long period of Tokugawa stability which lasted until the mid-nineteenth century. Yet the castle’s survival today is a minor miracle, for it not only remained intact through Meiji-era modernisation when other castles were destroyed as a legacy of feudalism, but it survived the plans of a property developer to demolish it and the bombing of the surrounds in World War II; a bomb landed but didn’t explode. It also survived the destructive force of the Great Hanshin Earthquake of 1995.
The approach to the castle becomes gradually narrower and steeper, leading to exposed areas overseen by fortified corridors.
Openings in the stone walls are guarded by massive wooden gates, the last of which, smaller than the others, gives onto the central tower.
The moat not only provided defence but a source of water in case of fire. Now it allows tourists to enjoy the harmony of natural and manmade beauty.
An extensive five-year restoration program, due for completion in 2014, means that the castle will continue to be one of Japan’s great treasures, recognised by UNESCO for its exceptional historical and aesthetic value. More than simply a castle, it constitutes a masterpiece of construction which serves as tribute to the prowess of its makers. Small wonder then that it has been a favorite for film makers, including famously the James Bond movie You Only Live Twice (1967) as well as Akira Kurosawa’s samurai classic Ran (1985). Though its military use is over, Himeji Castle represents a shining showcase of Japan’s pre-industrial achievements.
Seen from below, the main tower seems to have five storeys, though a hidden basement with sewage system and washrooms makes six in all.
From the tower there are views over the outer grounds and the city beyond. The castle town has a population of half a million.
Samurai armour is constructed from plates of iron or leather connected by rivets and cord made of macramé or silk. An entire suit with helmet can weigh up to 55 pounds (25 kg).
SHIRAKAWA -GO and GOKOYAMA
TRADITIONAL MOUNTAIN VILLAGES PRESERVING AN AGE-OLD WAY OF LIFE
SHIRAKAWA-GO AND GOKOYAMA AT A GLANCE
REGISTRATION 1995, as the ‘Historic villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokoyama’.
FEATURES 3 villages comprising Ogimachi in Shirakawa-go, Gifu Prefecture, as well as Ainokura and Sugunuma in Gokoyama, Toyama Prefecture, 31 miles (50 km) to the north.
ACCESS From Takayama in Gifu Prefecture, 50 mins by bus to Ogimachi. From Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture, 75 mins by bus. Rental car recommended for the Gokoyama villages.
DURATION By car the villages can be comfortably visited in a day. Opportunities to stay overnight (see japan-guide.com).
INFORMATION Shirakawa village office (05769) 6-1311; fax (05769) 6-1709; e-mail: [email protected]
ATTRACTIONS Museums, gift shops, open houses and viewing spots.
Deep in the mountains of central Japan is a remote river valley famous for its ‘prayer-hand houses’ (gassho zukuri). The name derives from the steeply angled roofs, which resemble hands joined together in Buddhist prayer. They are designed to cope with the weight of snow in winter, for the area has one of the heaviest snowfalls in Japan. As 95 percent of the area is mountainous, it meant that for long months in the past the villagers were cut off from the outside world. To cope, they developed a self-sufficient lifestyle for which the housing was indispensable.
Beneath the huge roofs are two-, three- and even four-storey houses. Remarkably, they are built without nails or metal supports, using only natural materials: wood, clay, straw and paper. An ‘A frame’ of giant oaks supports the roof, with the rafters bound in place by thick straw rope. The roof is covered with thatch, up to a meter thick, which has to be periodically renewed. Because of the risk of rotting, the re-thatching is carried out by a cooperative of forty or more villagers in just a single day or two.
The imposing structures could shelter extended families, with the largest holding up to around fifty people. The open hearths on the ground floor helped warm the upper levels, and the smoke served to repel insects and preserve the woodwork. The large roof space provided room for cottage industries, which compensated for the lack of income from arable land. Silkworm cultivation, the making of washi (Japanese paper) and the production of saltpeter for gun-powder helped sustain the households.
Traditional footwear in the deep snow of winter was a simple pair of straw boots.
The steeply pitched thatched roofs have large windows in the gable-end walls, designed to provide lighting and ventilation for silkworm production.
Surrounded by mountains, the villagers were cut off in winter and the communities developed their own customs, social systems and folklore. Not only is the snow heavy and wet, but the area has one of the largest snowfalls in Japan.
Sericulture, which required open space for silkworm beds and the storage of mulberry, took place on the upper floors, where a gable window provided light and air. Excrement from the silkworms was used in the making of gunpowder, which was carried out on the lower levels, with the saltpeter being stored for safety in a hollow beneath the ground floor.
Ogimachi, largest of the World Heritage villages, has a nearby hill with a viewing area which is popular with tourists. Of the 152 households, 59 are ‘prayer-hand houses’ subject to conservation, along with temple buildings, storehouses and canals. Some of the traditional houses are open to the public, either as museums or as places to stay overnight.
There were once some 1,800 prayer-hand houses but during the twentieth century numbers fell dramatically. By the 1960s there were only a few hundred left. Saltpeter and paper production ceased to be commercially viable in the late nineteenth century, and a hundred years later later silk production was in crisis. Households modernised or moved away, while dam developments put paid to whole villages. Only a concerted conservation movement by residents of Ogimachi was able to halt the process, and houses under threat elsewhere were relocated to the community. Now, the World Heritage listing comprises 59 prayer-hand houses in Ogimachi, 20 in Ainokura and 9 in Sugunuma. Also listed are associated shrines, temples, groves and storehouses.
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