Chichibu. Sumiko Enbutsu

middle of the arcade sells country-style dumplings called oyaki. The dumplings have several kinds of vegetable fillings; my favorite are nasu (eggplant) and yasai (chopped, pickled vegetables). At the far end of the passageway are some craft shops. Chichibu Tezukuri Kōbō 知知夫手づくりエ居 on the right sells fine handicrafts, all made by the people of Chichibu, using local materials. Some of the crafts are almost dying due to the scarcity of materials and the aging of craftsmen. Opposite from this is a fabric shop, where an automatic loom is set up to demonstrate the weaving of meisen silk textiles described earlier (p. 45). Restrooms are on the same side of the corridor, around the middle and near the fabric shop. From the end of the shopping mall a lane leads left to Ohanabatake Station, a local stop on the Chichibu Railroad. At the end of the lane, cross the road and turn left. Ohanabatake Station is seen on the right. Temple 13 is straight ahead of the railroad crossing.

      If you go left just as you reach Ohanabatake Station and turn right at the T crossing, you are on the Bamba-dōri 番場通, the front approach to Chichibujinja. If you need to buy some food for lunch or sustenance along the way, a small inconspicuous shop ahead on the right of this road, called Matsumura 松村甘味食堂, sells delicious simple sushi and sweets, sold by the piece. On the left is a large supermarket, Belc. Beyond it the Japanese sweet shop, Tamaki-ya 玉木屋 sells chestnut-filled cakes and other elegantly packaged goodies.

      To continue to Temple 13, however, cross the railroad tracks and go straight to arrive at a solid wooden gate on your right. Entering the temple, JIGAN-JI 慈眼寺, you will see the Kannon hall straight ahead of you. The two-story building to your left is the living quarters of the abbot’s family, where temple inscriptions may be obtained. A kindergarten is attached to the temple, and the spacious compound is often crowded with playing children. The walls and pillars of the Kannon hall are elaborately carved. Though the colors have faded over the years, the diverse designs and carving skill reflect the pride of wealthy silk merchants, many of whom lived in this city center area and who renovated this hall at the turn of the century.

      Of the three side buildings on the right, the middle one is dedicated to Yakushi, the Buddhist god of medicine, who is often associated with the power to treat eye ailments. Wooden votive tablets hung in its front have a double hiragana character for “me め,” a homonym for the Japanese word “eye”, with one reversed so as to resemble human eyes. The temple is popularly called Ame Yakushi, or Candy Yakushi. At the annual fair on July 8, simple white candy mixed with black sesame is sold. It is believed that, if eaten, the candy will protect one from various eye troubles for the coming year. A local friend of mine makes and sells this candy. He sets up his stall at almost all major festivals in Chichibu to sell his hand-rolled sweets. When I once asked about the origin of the belief, he grinned and said, “You know, the ame of Ame Yakushi originally may not have meant ‘candy’ but ‘rain.’ It often rains at this time of the year, since it is still the rainy season. Farmers and woodcutters welcome the break in their routine that the rain brings and happily come to the fair to buy candy, which in the past was a bit of a luxury.” In December when the Night Festival begins, the candy man is transformed into a proud festival leader. Dressed in a weathered traditional costume, he struts about, giving orders to young community members. To him and many local people, festivals are not just celebrations, but an important part of their lives.