Food of Santa Fe (P/I) International. Dave DeWitt

is useful for cooking tamales. A charcoal or gas grill is useful for roasting chillies and to grill meat, although chillies can be roasted in a conventional oven or toaster oven as well.

      A deep fryer is ideal for making sopaipillas, the puffed-up bread. A heavy saucepan can be substituted if you do not have a deep fryer.

      Making Corn Tortillas

      Tlaxcallim (corn tortillas) were the principal food of both the Mayas and the Aztecs as early as 10,000 B.C. Both cultures worshipped corn, and the Mayas believed that humans were created from corn dough (masa). Corn tortillas are made in much the same way today as they have been for centuries. Dried corn kernels are briefly cooked in a solution of water and unslaked lime (calcium hydroxide) or “builder’s lime”, to remove their tough skin and soften them enough to grind. The resulting nixtamal is combined with water to form masa.

      Tortillas can only be made from masa; cornmeal will not work. If you cannot purchase ready-to-use masa, masa harina, which is dehydrated nixtamal, is available in many grocery stores alongside the flour or from a number of mail-order sources.

      There are a variety of ways to form corn tortillas. The most difficult method is by hand. A flattened ball of masa about 2.5 cm in diameter is worked between the hands in a rapid, smooth motion. Mastering this art is not as easy as it looks and takes a lot of practice!

      Step 1: Cover the bottom plate with plastic wrap, position the ball of masa and cover it with another sheet of plastic wrap.

      Step 2: Lower the handle of the press and apply firm pressure.

      Step 3: Open the press, lift off the top plastic, pick up the tortilla and place it on your palm, plastic side up. Peel away the remaining sheet of plastic.

      To use a tortilla press, make the dough using the recipe on page 106. Once your masa balls are ready, cover the bottom plate of the press with a piece of heavy plastic wrap or wax paper that is a little larger than the press. Place the ball on the press a little off centre, toward the hinge. Cover the dough with another piece of plastic, close the press, and push the handle down hard. Open the press, peel off the top piece of plastic, place the tortilla plastic side up on one hand, remove the remaining plastic, and gently roll the tortilla onto a heated comal or frying pan to cook. Don’t try to peel the tortilla off the plastic— trust us, it won’t work.

      If you don’t have a press, you can roll out the masa between two pieces of plastic wrap with a rolling pin. Remove the plastic as described above.

      Making Flour Tortillas

      The Spanish name tortilla comes from the word torta, which means “round cake”, an apt description of this flat, unleavened bread. When the Spanish brought wheat to the Western Hemisphere, the flour tortilla (tortilla de harina) was born.

      Flour tortillas are popular in the northern states of Mexico and in the southwestern United States, and they vary in size and thickness. Those made in California and Arizona are much thinner than those made in New Mexico. Unlike corn tortillas, flour tortillas contain fat. Lard is traditionally used, which tends to result in a crumbly tortilla, but those made with vegetable shortening can sometimes be bland. A combination of both produces a good tortilla.