the stress out of your time in the world’s most mesmerizing capital.
While all information is correct at time of print, do make sure to check ahead if you plan to visit any of the venues listed within, as places tend to frequently open and close, especially in a city that has a history of transforming itself as often and rapidly as Tokyo. As such, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may be contained within the Travel Pack.
CHAPTER 1
TOKYO’S
‘Don’t Miss’ Sights
Tokyo Skytree towers above eastern Tokyo
Observation deck at Roppongi Hills
Cable car station at the foot of Mount Takao
Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa
Whether discovering historic temples or finding yourself hopelessly lost in translation, Tokyo offers visitors an unforgettable range of experiences and sights. The 13 listings that follow is my own selection of Tokyo’s ‘Don’t Miss’ Sights, chosen to provide a taste of all the components that come together to make a trip to Japan’s capital so memorable.
1 Meiji Jingu Shrine
2 Omotesanda Shopping Avenue
3 Tsukiji Fish Market
4 Tokyo Skytree
5 Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa
6 Sumida River Cruise
7 A Stroll Through the Yanaka District
8 Akihabara
9 Edo-Tokyo History Museum
10 Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown
11 A Visit to Oedo Hot Springs in Odaiba
12 Shinjuku Gyoen Park
13 A Hike Up Mount Takao
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT
With so many things to see and do, knowing where to start and what to explore in Tokyo is no easy task. So what to do? You could stare down jetlag on your first day by getting up bright and early for the Tsukiji Fish Market (page 11) where the frenetic early morning tuna auction should jolt you into life. After a sushi breakfast at the market, take to the streets of nearby Ginza for its famed department stores and boutiques, and then stroll over to the Imperial Palace (page 26) to catch a glimpse of the off-limits palace buildings and wander its landscaped outer gardens.
On your second day, you could explore the city’s old east side, starting with Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa (page 13) before browsing the culinary ware stores of nearby Kappabashi (page 72). Alternatively, soak up the east-side vibe with a trip to the Ueno district (page 33) for the lively Ameyoko street market, several of the city’s best museums, and some down time in Ueno Park before a couple of hours strolling around the narrow, winding back streets of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi (collectively known as Yanesen, page 15)—an older, more down-to-earth side of Tokyo that belies the city’s hectic, neon-drenched image.
On your third day, immerse yourself in central Tokyo with a stroll among the fashion-conscious throngs of Omotesando-dori and the teenyboppers of Harajuku and Shibuya, on the way stopping at the magnificent Meiji Jingu Shrine (page 9). Another day could be spent first browsing the electronics and geeky (otaku) stores in Akihabara (page 36), then plunging into the crowded streets of Shinjuku (page 37)—the epitome of brash, modern Tokyo—or the more stylish Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown urban develop-ments in Roppongi (page 18).
For a fun family day out, look no further than Odaiba (page 42). With attractions that include the Oedo Onsen baths (page 19), one of the coolest science museum’s kids will get to see (page 73) and arguably Japan’s most mind-blowing amusement arcade (Joypolis, page 74), the man-made island has enough to keep adults and kids of all ages happy until well past bedtime. Alternatively, you could brave the crowds and head east of Tokyo to the Tokyo Disney Resort (page 74).
As well as exploring Tokyo, also try to get out of the capital and discover some of the spectacular historical and natural sites on its doorstep. Even just a day trip out of Tokyo will give you a whole new perspective on Japan. If time is limited, get up early and have a day trip to Kamakura (page 44), the 13th-century capital, to take in the Daibutsu (Great Statue of Buddha) at Hase’s Kotoku-in Temple (page 44) and many other ancient sites. If you prefer a taste of nature, head an hour west of Shinjuku and hike up Mount Takao (page 21).
If you can spare a night away from Tokyo, catch a train a couple of hours north to the World Heritage Tosho-gu shrine in Nikko (page 51), the outrageously lavish complex built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo era (1603–1868). You could do this as a long day trip, but it’s far better to slowly explore Nikko’s temples and shrines and still have time to take in the nearby Kegon Waterfalls and Lake Chuzenji (page 53). Better still, that will give you the opportunity to stay in one of Nikko’s traditional inns (ryokan). For an alternative place to try a ryokan, head just under two hours west to Hakone (page 54) for a soak in one of the area’s many natural outdoor hot springs and for superb views of majestic Mount Fuji (page 55).
1 Meiji Jingu Shrine
Tradition and tranquility amid the urban sprawl
Dedicated to the souls of the Emperor Meiji, the man who lead Japan’s transition from feudal state to modern world power in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and his consort Empress Shoken, the quiet hush and calm of Meiji Jingu Shrine and its inner precinct (the Naien) is a perfect example of the contrasts that have come to define Tokyo—of the modern city standing at ease alongside the old city and its enduring traditions. In Meiji Jingu’s case, this enclave of “old Japan” rubs shoulders with the youthful, anything-goes Harajuku area and cosmopolitan Omotesando-dori.
After passing under the first of Meiji Jingu’s three grand torii gateways, walking along gravel pathways shaded by the towering forest that enshrouds the main shrine, it’s hard to believe all this (shrine and 28-hectare/70-acre forest) was built only after the emperor’s death in 1912, construction eventually finishing in the fall of 1920. In fact, the buildings that are here now date only to the late 1950s when they were rebuilt after being leveled in the air raids that destroyed so much of Tokyo in 1945. Yet, regardless of age, the inner precinct is undoubtedly ancient in manner. On one visit you might see a Shinto wedding procession gracefully moving through the grounds. On another you will see people writing wishes on wood plaques and hanging them on racks in front of the main shrine, where people bow to pray, only their gentle ritual hand claps punctuating the silence.
Not surprisingly in this city of contrasts, Meiji Jingu’s outer precinct (the Gaien) couldn’t be more different to the tranquil inner. Stretching over 32 hectares (80 acres), the Gaien is home to parkland and an incredible array of sports facilities, including the 48,000-seat National Stadium, the main venue