Japanese Inns and Hot Springs. Rob Goss

baths, which themselves (according to Japanese tradition) can alleviate numerous ailments and rejuvenate both physically and mentally.

      As with all the best ryokan, it would be tempting not to leave the KAI Atami during a stay, but Atami does have some attractions that are worth exploring. The two market streets leading away from Atami Station are something of a must-see for foodies, home to stalls specializing in all sorts of dried fish (all specialties of Shizuoka Prefecture) as well as Japanese sweets, and local fruits and vegetables. Then there is the MOA Museum with its 3,500 or so paintings, its Noh theater, and its gilded tearoom, all set atop the hill that overlooks Atami Station and provides sweeping views over Sagami Bay—a sight almost as impressive as watching the sunset while soaking in one of the KAI’s outdoor baths.

      kAi Atami 界 熱海

      Address: 759 izusan, Atami, Shizuoka, japan 413-0002

      Telephone: [phone]

      Website: www.hoshinoresorts.com/en/resortsandhotels/kai/atami-ryokan

      Email: [email protected]

      number of rooms: 16

      Room rate: ¥¥¥

      A staff member serving the signature red snapper dish. Staff at the KAI Atami and other Hoshino Resorts properties don’t wear traditional clothing like kimono, but rather a uniform that feels like a blend of contemporary and tradition, much like the Hoshino ryokan themselves.

      The guest rooms represent simple, minimalist Japanese tradition at its very best.

      The outdoor lounge area, located halfway between the two outdoor baths, has great views and a fridge stocked with complimentary beer and other drinks—ideal post bath.

      No, it’s not the same bath again. Both the large wooden communal tubs at the KAI look similar and are decorated with flowers. The difference is that they are gender-separated baths—men and women here bathe apart (as is typical at any ryokan) but both get great views and a similarly luxurious bathing experience.

      You often hear of ryokan being in tune with nature, but this takes that a step beyond. This tree has been in-situ for hundreds of years and the ryokan has grown around it. It actually grows through a hallway in the lower part of the complex.

      Seasonal is key with kaiseki. In autumn, the KAI Atami will serve matsutake mushroom in a variety of ways, including in a soup that brings out the matsutake’s full earthiness.

      YAGYU-NO-SHO SHUZENJI ONSEN, IZU