Adrian Trendall

Skye's Cuillin Ridge Traverse


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      About the Author

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      Adrian is a mountain guide and photographer living on Skye. He has been climbing since the 1980s with a CV that includes Alpine north faces, big walls in Yosemite and first ascents on the White Cliffs of Dover.

      After a BA in history from King’s College London, Adrian devoted himself to climbing and photography. Jobs were often temporary and a means to finance climbing trips. His work in the outdoor industry included 12 years at Ogwen Cottage in Snowdonia, one of the few places in the UK to regularly take secondary school students multi-pitch climbing.

      Adrian and his wife, Bridgette, live at the foot of the Cuillin and feel they are living their dream life. Together, they run a guiding and photography company, All Things Cuillin, and have set up the very popular Facebook group of the same name.

      SKYE’S CUILLIN RIDGE TRAVERSE

      Strategies, advice, detailed topo booklet and 10 classic scrambles

      by Adrian Trendall

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      JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS,

      OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      © Adrian Trendall 2020

      First edition 2020

      ISBN 9781783628124

      Printed in China on responsibly sourced paper on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

      Image Maps are reproduced with permission from HARVEY Maps, www.harveymaps.co.uk

      Warning! Climbing and scrambling can be dangerous

      Climbing and scrambling can be dangerous activities carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. Mountaineers should be appropriately equipped for the routes undertaken. Whilst every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this book, the user should be aware that conditions are highly variable and can change quickly. Holds may become loose or fall off, rockfall can affect the character of a route, and in winter, snow and avalanche conditions must be carefully considered. These can materially affect the seriousness of a scramble, tour or expedition.

      Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accept liability for damage of any nature including damage to property, personal injury or death arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

      Updates to this guide

      While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/1043/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, Cumbria, LA9 7RL, United Kingdom.

      Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

      Front cover: Perfect weather for the Bad Step on Am Basteir

      CONTENTS

       Location of practice routes

       Map key

      Overview map

       INTRODUCTION

       Preparation and training

       Strategy and tactics

       Gear

       Navigation

       Climbing, scrambling and ropework

       Grades

       Weather

       Geology of the Black Cuillin

       Logistics

       Reasons for failure

       Beyond the ridge

       Using this guide

       CLASSIC SCRAMBLES

       Route 1 Round of Fionn Choire

       Route 2 The Spur, Sgurr an Fheadain

       Route 3 South South East Buttress, Sgurr na Stri

       Route 4 Thuilm Ridge, Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh

       Route 5 South Ridge, Sgurr Coir’ an Lochain

       Route 6 The Dubh Ridge

       Route 7 Round of Coire Lagan

       Route 8 Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean

       Route 9 Clach Glas – Bla Bheinn Traverse

       Route 10 Central South Buttress, An Caisteal

       THE CUILLIN TRAVERSE IN WINTER

       Route 11 The winter traverse

       Appendix A Summary of classic scrambles

       Appendix B Further