Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair. Barry Fletcher

strength relaxer (refer to the maintenance diagram for details).

      A general guideline is used to assess the overall texture of the hair. If you have very soft, thin or delicate hair, select a mild relaxer. If you have normal to resistant hair, select a regular relaxer. If you have excessively curly and resistant hair then select a super relaxer.

      Step Four: Basing the Scalp

      Basing the scalp protects it from the caustic reaction of the chemical application. Distribute the emollient evenly onto the scalp. Try to keep the base off the roots of the hair because it may retard the chemical relaxing process. You may also apply some of the base to the ends of the hair to protect it from overprocessing.

      Step Five: Applying the Relaxer

      Once you have selected the appropriate relaxer strength, place the container nearby. This will allow you to work more efficiently throughout the process. Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. Caution should be used at all times. (Keep the relaxer out of children's reach. If accidentally swallowed, seek immediate medical attention.)

      Part the hair into four even sections. When parting, be careful not to scrape the surface of the scalp with your comb. Any scalp irritation may promote scarring after the relaxing process. Before you begin your application, set your timer. The application process should take no more than five to six minutes to complete. Keep in mind that the relaxer should be applied approximately a quarter inch away from the scalp and should never touch its surface. If you are applying an off-the-scalp relaxer, the chemical should be applied one and a half inches away from the scalp, and if you are working with virgin hair, the relaxer should be applied a half inch away from the scalp and two inches away from the ends of the hair. Keep the relaxer off of your ears and away from your eyes, nose and mouth.

      Apply the relaxer along the outer parameters of each section. Concentrate on completing one section at a time, beginning with the back area. Part each section into smaller subsections, beginning at the crown area and working your way down toward the nape. Apply a generous amount of relaxer on both sides of each subsection, starting with the front. Once applied, direct the hair toward the front of the head and apply a generous amount of relaxer to the backside of the subsection. Continue this pattern until the relaxer is applied throughout the entire section. If you are working with thick hair texture, subsections should be small. If you are working with fine hair texture, subsections should be larger.

      If you are applying a full relaxer, upon the completion of each section, the relaxer should be combed through to the ends of the hair. If you are applying a retouch, however, the relaxer should be applied to the roots of the hair only, and should never overlap previously relaxed hair. Again, be conscious of keeping the relaxer away from the scalp as you move down the section and into the nape area. I recommend putting a conditioner on the previously relaxed hair, prior to a retouch, to protect the hair from possible overlapping.

      After the relaxer has been applied throughout the entire head, then proceed to apply the relaxer around the hairline. Not only is the hairline the most sensitive part of the scalp, it also possesses the most delicate portion of the hair and therefore should always be the last section applied in the relaxing process. Avoid touching the forehead. Use the comb to smooth out and remove the four parts from the hair so that they do not become permanent impressions. Now you are ready for the smoothing process.

      Step Six: Smoothing The Relaxer

      Applying the relaxer initiates the relaxing process. It is the smoothing process, however, that allows us to achieve our end result. First, set your timer. If you are working with fine hair texture, allow five minutes for smoothing time. If the hair is a medium texture, allow eight minutes for smoothing and 10 minutes if the hair texture is coarse and resistant. Smoothing time should never exceed 10 minutes.

      Use the back of your rat-tail comb to smooth each section of the hair. Complete one section at a time. Start at the nape area and motion the hair in either direction from top to bottom, or reverse. Continue this process until you complete the entire back section of the head. Repeat this process for the front section as well, and be sure to apply a little tension every now and then to aid the chemical processing. Utilizing your thumb to smooth the hair also aids the processing. The heat from your hands actually softens the hair and speeds its reaction to the chemical. Make certain that the relaxer covers all hollow spots of the head. Depending on how much time you have left, you may allow the relaxer to set on the hair. When the timer goes off it is time to remove the relaxer. Keep in mind, while you are in the process of relaxing, if your scalp gets overly irritated or you find that the hair is relaxing faster than you anticipated, then rinse the relaxer out as fast as possible.

      Step Seven: Rinsing the Relaxer

      The process of rinsing the hair is very important. Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot. If it's too cold, it will leave a strong residue on the hair and the relaxer will not rinse out adequately. If it's too hot, it could irritate the scalp. The water should be lukewarm. Also, make certain the water pressure is strong. This will ensure that the chemical is completely rinsed from the hair and scalp. Any manipulation of the hair or scalp should be light. When massaging the scalp, use the cushion part of your fingertips, not the nails. The hair and scalp are at their most delicate state directly after a relaxer application, therefore, any rubbing or scratching may cause irritation. Rinse the hair until the water runs clear and keep a towel over your eyes and face to avoid any contact with the chemical. Check thoroughly to make sure there is no chemical residue left on the hair or scalp. Pay special attention to the neck, crown, nape and frontal areas.

      Step Eight: Neutralizing the Hair

      Once the hair is thoroughly rinsed, you are ready to apply the neutralizing shampoo. The neutralizing shampoo stabilizes the relaxer, removes it from the hair and fixates the hair into a straight configuration. Use a mild cream neutralizing shampoo and apply it twice. On the second shampoo, apply evenly and let it set for three minutes, then shampoo with lukewarm water.

      Step Nine: Conditioning the Hair

      Any time we apply chemicals to the hair, we run the risk of drying it out. For this reason it is important to follow all chemical applications with a moisturizing or conditioning treatment. If the hair is shedding after a relaxer has been applied, it will need a protein treatment, followed by a moisturizing conditioner.

      Distribute the conditioner evenly throughout the hair and then either place the head under a heated cap or dryer for 10 to 15 minutes. Next, place the head under a steam treatment machine without a plastic cap for 10 to 15 minutes. If you are at home, you can wrap your hair in a hot steamed towel and leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes. Any of the three methods will require you to rinse the hair thoroughly upon completion. If the hair feels a little weak after the relaxer application, you may want to use a leave-in conditioner as well.

      After the hair is relaxed we tend to want to further straighten it via blow-drying, pressing and hot curling. This is far too much heat to apply on the hair directly after relaxer application; it places unnecessary strain on the hair. One way to ensure that our hair receives proper moisture and conditioning after a relaxer application is to wet set and style the hair using alcohol-free conditioning setting lotion with built-in conditioners and humectants. Wet styles such as setting, wrapping and sculpturing allow you to dry the hair while sealing in the moisture. Blow-drying the hair, on the other hand, blows the moisture out of the hair. There is a difference between locking moisture in and blowing it out. When working with excessively dry and curly hair textures, you want to stay clear of the latter.

      Black women are in constant search of innovative methods to soften their hair, while avoiding harsh chemical applications. There have been numerous products and methods introduced over the years that have tried to fill this void. The most recent attempts include Copa, a natural curl release system, and Willie Morrow's Aqua Supreme relaxer, a new system that claims to contain 90 percent less harsh chemicals than the average