Frommer's Portugal. Paul Ames

MUSEUM The Navy Museum is one of the best of its kind in Europe, a tribute to Portugal’s one-time domination of the high seas. It’s installed in the west wing of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Grabbing the limelight are five 18th-century royal galleys, their bows decorated with gilded dragon figureheads. The grandest of all, built in 1784, ferried the royal family to a British fleet as they fled to Brazil just before Napoleon’s troops captured Lisbon. It was last used in 1957 to give Queen Elizabeth II of England a trip on the Tagus. The museum has an important collection of artifacts from the Age of Discoveries, including a battered statue of Archangel Raphael which Vasco da Gama carried on his voyages to India. There’s also the seaplane piloted by Carlos Gago Coutinho and Artur de Sacadura Cabral on their first flight between Europe and South America in 1922. The Navy runs a number of other visitor attractions, including the next-door Planetarium and a 19th-century frigate, the Dom Fernando II , across the river in Almada. It’s fun to visit by taking one of the little orange ferry boats from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas.

      Praça do Império. www.ccm.marinha.pt/pt. 21/097-73-88. 6.50€, 3.25€ kids 4–12, over 65s, free for under 4s. Oct–Apr: Daily 10am–4:30pm; May–Sept: Daily 10am–5:30pm. Train: Belém. Tram: 15. Bus: 714, 727, 28, 729, 751.

      Pavilhão do Conhecimento-Ciência Viva MUSEUM This wonderfully interactive science museum lets the little ones simulate an astronaut jump, ride a bike on a high-wire, build a bridge they can walk over, and any number of other gee-whiz experiments. The building was one of the highlights of Expo ’98 in the Parque das Nações district. It brims with interactive exhibits that are educational, but still a bundle of laughs for youngsters and their parents.

      Largo José Mariano Gago 1. www.pavconhecimento.pt. 21/891-71-00. 9€, 7€ youngsters 12–17, 6€ seniors and kids 3–11, free under 3s; 24€ families (2 adults and with kids up to 17). June–Aug: Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6:30pm; Sept–May: Tues–Fri 10am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6:30pm. Metro: Oriente. Bus: 728.

      Telecabine Lisboa CABLE CAR Built (like most of Parque das Nações) for the World’s Fair in 1998, the cable car pulls you along over the riverbank, 100 feet up, offering spectacular views over the Tagus and the area’s modern architectural landmarks, such as the graceful Vasco da Gama bridge (Western Europe’s longest at 7.6 miles), the towering Myriad Hotel, and the egg-like Altice Arena. It’s close to the Oceanário, the Ciência Viva science museum, and the Vasco da Gama shopping mall. The trip lasts about 10 minutes.

      Passeio de Neptuno. www.telecabinelisboa.pt. 21/895-61-43. One-way ticket 4€; 2.60€ kids 5–12 and over 65s; free under 5s. Spring and fall daily 11am–7pm; summer 10:30am–8pm; winter 11am–6pm. Metro: Oriente. Bus: 728.

      City Strolls

      Lisbon is a walker’s delight; the city’s principal neighborhoods abound with major sights and quiet glimpses into daily life.

      Walking Tour 1 Alfama

Start:	Praça do Comércio.
Finish:	Costa da Castelo.
Time:	2 hours.
Best Times:	A day when it’s not too hot.
Worst Times:	When the mercury tops 30°C.

      The streets of Alfama are best traversed on foot, even if that means some steep hills. If it’s too tiring, hop on Trams 28 or 12, which clatter through the narrow streets.

      From Praça do Comércio head east along Rua da Alfândega.

      1Igreja da Conceição

      Built in the 1500s on the site of a synagogue, this once-grand church was almost completely destroyed by the 1755 quake. The magnificent Manueline doorway survives complete with floral designs, mythical beasts, and maritime mementoes.

      Continue on Rua da Alfândega until it opens onto Campo de Cebolas:

      Walking Tour: Alfama

      2Casa dos Bicos

      This noble residence built in 1523 has a facade of stone spikes inspired by Renaissance Italy. It hosts a foundation dedicated to José Saramago, the Nobel-winning novelist who died in 2010. His ashes are buried under the olive tree out front.

      Keep heading east on Rua Cais de Santarém.

      3Chafariz de El-Rei

      The facade dates from 1864, but this is one of the oldest drinking fountains in Lisbon, opened in 1487. Noble households and the India fleet tanked up with water here.

      Take the alley on the left, then stairs leading up to Rua Judaria, in the heart of the old Jewish quarter, pass Largo de São Rafael on to Rua de São Miguel.

      4Igreja de São Miguel

It’s a pity this pretty white church in the heart of Alfama only opens Wednesday and Friday 4 to 6pm and Sunday 8 to 10am. Inside, it’s a jewel box of gilded 17th-century wood carvings.

      Wind your way uphill, north along steps and lanes until you reach:

      5Largo das Portas do Sol

      This is one of the best vistas in Lisbon, busy with street performers. Look beyond the statue of St. Vincent toward the rooftops and river (p. 101).

      Turn west along Rua de Santiago and Largo dos Lóis until you reach Costa da Castelo.

      6Chapitô

      You deserve a break. A circus school may not seem like the most relaxing place, but it has an excellent restaurant with lovely views over the city and a shady patio cafe. 21/888-01-54.

      Walking Tour 2 Baixa, the Center & the Chiado

Start:	Praça do Comércio.
Finish:	Elevador de Santa Justa.
Time:	3 hours.
Best Times:	Any sunny day except Sunday.
Worst Times:	Monday to Saturday from 7:30 to 9am and 5 to 7pm; Sunday, when shops are closed.

      This tours also starts in:

      1Praça do Comércio

      One of Europe’s most beautiful squares, looking out over Tagus, it was the nerve center of Portugal’s maritime empire. The royal palace that stood here was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. In its place are sturdy white towers bookending rows of pastel-painted government ministries. Long arcades cover cafes and restaurants. To the east, the Lisbon Story Centre (www.lisboastorycentre.pt) gives an interactive explanation of the city’s history, complete with mock quake. A horseback statue of King José I (1714–77) dominates the center of the plaza.

      Head north along:

      Walking Tour: Baixa to Intendente

      2Rua Augusta

      Facing the river is a triumphal arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta, which you can climb for 2.50€ to enjoy 360-degree views