They are fiercely proud of their home villages but are well aware of what is going on in the wider world. However, the care of the family, the village, the countryside, the traditional way of life: this is what matters to modern local people.
There is a growing realisation that the region’s centuries of isolation have handed down a precious heritage. Enormous tracts of Extremadura are still untouched. Active conservation has, so far, kept at bay 21st-century manias such as unsightly and noisy wind farms. Power demand is met with solar panel farms, which are silent, less intrusive and allow the sheep to graze the land as they have done for centuries. The future of Extremadura looks good. Long may its beauty be enjoyed while also being protected.
Getting there
By air
Extremadura has no international airport. Most visitors fly to Madrid, Lisbon or Seville and hire a car. Hire cars are available from the big car rental companies at all three airports, or visitors who prefer not to drive from an airport city can take the train or bus to Extremadura (see below) and hire a car locally. See Appendix D for car hire contact details.
To Madrid
Madrid’s airport – called Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas – is perhaps the obvious choice as it has the most direct daily flights connected with the most destinations. BA-Iberia (www.britishairways.com) connect to almost everywhere in the world and are competitive in their pricing with off-peak bargains. However, not all regional airports have a direct flight; many have connections in London’s Heathrow or Gatwick airports.
Madrid is well served by several low-cost airlines: both Easyet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) offer flights from all the major airports in Europe, and some regional airports have limited flights. Vueling (www.vueling.com) and Norwegian (www.norwegian.com) are both low-cost airlines gaining in popularity. Vueling tends to fly with a stopover in Barcelona, its hub. Both Vueling and Norwegian run limited flights in the winter months.
Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) and KLM (www.klm.com) are medium-priced airlines that fly to Madrid from a staggering number of places, although some have connections and stopovers at other airports.
To Lisbon
Lisbon is well served by all the above-listed airlines, as well as Portugal’s own airline, Tap Portugal (www.flytap.com).
To Seville
Seville is the least well served airport. BA-Iberia operate there with daily direct flights from London Gatwick, but flights from Amsterdam or Berlin, for example, are via Heathrow or Gatwick. Easyjet also fly direct to Seville daily from Gatwick. Ryanair provide a daily flight from London Stanstead and Brussels, while Dublin fares less well with three flights a week.
All information is correct at the time of writing (2017) but it is vital to do your own research.
DISTANCES TO EXTREMADURA TOWNS FROM MAJOR AIRPORTS
Madrid to Gata – 330km
Madrid to Jerte – 235km
Madrid to Guadalupe – 260km
Madrid to Monesterio – 460km
Lisbon to Gata – 330km
Lisbon to Jerte – 424km
Lisbon to Guadalupe – 410km
Lisbon to Monesterio – 355km
Seville to Gata – 375km
Seville to Jerte – 380km
Seville to Guadalupe – 325km
Seville to Monesterio – 98km
By rail
Trains from Europe arrive in Madrid at Chamartín Station. From there, take the Metro (subway) to Atocha Renfe, look for the Cercanías platforms and take a Cáceres–Mérida–Badajoz train. Get off at Navalmoral de la Mata or Plasencia for the northern sierras; Cáceres for the central sierras; Mérida for the southern sierras. See bus and car hire information to get from these towns to the walks.
There were no direct trains from Lisbon that stop in Extremadura at the time of writing (2017). Trains from Seville go to Mérida, Cáceres and beyond but need connections. For more information see www.renfe.com.
By bus
Buses run from Madrid’s Estación Sur. The Metro stop is Mendez Alvaro. A number of bus companies go to different parts of Extremadura. Avanzabus (www.avanzabus.com) run a service from Lisbon but with limited stops in Extremadura; there is a good bus service from Seville. For useful websites see Appendix D.
By car
Drivers entering Spain from the north should head for Burgos, Valladolid and Salamanca and pick up the N-630 Ruta de la Plata or the E-803/A-66 motorway (they run side-by-side but are not the same). Extremadura is reached through the Puerto de Béjar, where it is possible to stop and enjoy some walking in the Ambroz valley or continue on to the chosen destination.
Driving in Extremadura is a real pleasure as there are so few vehicles on the roads in comparison to almost every other European country. It has some of the best-kept motorways in Europe but they are usually only two-lane. Smaller roads are well kept but village streets are generally tiny and confusing. The Guardia Civil make regular checks on vehicles at roundabouts so make sure yours is roadworthy and that your licence and ID are in order to avoid the on-the-spot fines.
Local driving habits are civilized and mainly polite, although the tradition on roundabouts of keeping to the lane on the right, no matter whether turning left or not, is confusing at first. The roads around villages tend to have slow-moving tractors and trailers during December and January for the olive harvest, during June and July for the tomatoes and fruits and August for the figs. Be patient.
By ferry
Brittany Ferries (www.brittany-ferries.co.uk) sail from Portsmouth to Bilbao and from Plymouth to Santander. Once there, head for Burgos, Valladolid, Salamanca and follow the Ruta de la Plata down into Extremadura. From Bilbao to Hervás in the Ambroz Valley is 500km and from Santander to Hervás it is 470km. Add an extra 285km to drive down to Monesterio.
If you want to bring your own vehicle and tour Extremadura it is a good way of travelling to the area.
Getting around
The most practical way to get around Extremadura is by car. The network of motorways and main roads in Extremadura is excellent. Minor roads linking small villages are generally good and the drives can be very scenic.
Folk music is an important part of any local fiesta
The rail company Renfe (www.renfe.com) runs trains that link all the main cities across Extremadura, and main railways stations have bus connections. Spanish trains usually run on time and every ticket holder has a seat. Train fares are reasonable – 300km between Madrid and Cáceres is around €40, with discounts for young people and students. Over 60s can buy a Trajeta Dorada (Golden Card) for €5 at any railway station by showing their passport or proof of age. This card allows immediate discounts on all rail travel. (Prices correct in 2017.)
Plasencia, Cáceres, Trujillo, Mérida and Badajoz all have main bus stations. Even the smallest villages from which walks start and finish have bus stops,