or west-facing garden is predominantly shady, while a north- or east-facing garden enjoys plenty of sun.
In a shady garden
A northerly or easterly aspect will almost certainly mean more shade, but this doesn’t mean it needs to be dark and dull. First, consider thinning out some of the trees and tall shrubs to let in more light, and plant golden-leaved plants to lighten the shade, such as the golden-leaved mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’) or the golden-leaved dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Aurea’). A plant with golden foliage will brighten any dark corner and many prefer to grow in part shade as full sun may scorch their leaves.
The shade cast by deciduous trees and shrubs will not come into full effect until the leaves appear. So if you underplant with spring-flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops (Galanthus), daffodils (Narcissus) and bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta), they will complete their flowering season before the tree canopy closes up. Low light levels in shady gardens can make things appear to be smaller, so be bold with everything from layout (use generous paving areas) and ornament (choose large containers) to planting. Several exotic-looking bold architectural plants, such as the castor-oil fig (Fatsia japonica) and the Chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortune!), tolerate a little shade.
In shady courtyards, brightly painted walls will substantially increase light levels, while strategically placed mirrors will reflect more light into the space as well as making it appear larger than it is. Water, too, will reflect light, adding sparkle to shady corners while offering sympathetic planting opportunities for fabulous foliage associations, such as shade-tolerant ferns, foxgloves and arum. The larger blue-leaved hostas are easy to grow in such situations and are slug resistant too.
Not all plants like full sun. Many ferns (above) are first and foremost woodland plants so, like foxgloves (Digitalis,) and hostas (right), they are happy when growing in partial shade.
Top bold shade-tolerant shrubs
Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel)
Camellia japonica (common camellia)
Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia)
Hydrangea quercifolia (oak-leaved hydrangea)
Mahonia × media ‘Charity’
Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax)
Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)
Skimmia japonica
Trachycarpus fortunei (Chusan palm)
Viburnum davidii
Shelter
Shelter too is an important factor to take into account. Keeping out the wind increases the warmth of a garden significantly. Many plants can suffer from wind exposure (for example, they may have torn, tatty leaves), plus the soil dries out more quickly. Buildings, walls, fences and hedges all contribute to successfully reducing the exposure to wind. This, in turn, makes the garden a far more comfortable place for plants and people alike.
In windy situations, solid walls or fences may create turbulence on the sheltered side. To avoid this, use a slightly open fence, such as woven hazel, through which wind passes, but at a reduced speed. Hedges also allow for this filtering effect and can be a cheaper option than erecting fences or walls, while simultaneously providing colour and interest within the garden.
Formal hedges such as yew (Taxus baccata) may need clipping twice a year. Informal hedges such as laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) are generally left unclipped and are therefore more labour saving. Remember to plant evergreens – plants that do not shed their leaves – where privacy is of prime importance. Where security is an issue, plant tough, prickly hedges such as holly (llex × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’), Berberis darwinii, firethorn (Pyracantha ‘Mohave’) and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), which all provide tough protection.
Top evergreen hedging shrubs
Berberis darwinii
Buxus sempervirens (common box)
Cotoneaster franchetii
Elaeagnus × ebbingei
Escallonia ‘Iveyi’
Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’
Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)
Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel)
Pyracantha ‘Mohave’ (firethorn)
Taxus baccata (yew)
Viburnum tinus (laurustinus)
Hedges can add to the style of the garden, as well as providing structure and shelter.
It is important to gain a broad understanding of your local climate. This will allow you to use it to your best advantage. To be forewarned is to be forearmed. Sometimes the weather can be the gardener’s friend and sometimes it can be our foe.
If you gain a general understanding of your local climatic conditions in terms of its extremes, you can use this to influence the choice of plants in your garden. If you have cold and frosty winters, then it is no use expecting exotic plants to survive outside without protection. Alternatively, if you have long, hot summers, then there is not very much point in choosing plants that like to keep their roots wet.
Unfortunately, most of us only achieve a good understanding of our climate and its effect on our plants through trial and error. But a little bit of research and planning will increase your knowledge and save you valuable time, effort and money. There is a saying that, There is a plant for every condition.’ Bear this in mind when choosing plants, not only for their specific positions, but also in terms of your prevailing climatic conditions. Do this and your garden will thrive. The most important climatic conditions to consider are temperature, wind, rainfall and humidity.
Even in cool temperate weather, microclimates within gardens can enable frost-sensitive plants such as tree ferns and Geranium maderense to be grown.
Temperature
There are two main aspects to consider – air temperature and soil temperature. Both of these are vital factors in determining the successful growth of plants. Almost all plants purchased from garden centres are now informatively labelled. There should be a maximum and minimum temperature given, between which the particular plant will do well. In some nurseries, stock is not always so well labelled, so don’t be afraid to ask someone who works at the nursery if any plant you want to buy fits in to the maximum and minimum temperatures in your garden.
Frost is a hazard and can put plants at great risk. A frost occurs when the temperature falls below o°C (32°F) on clear, still nights. Local weather stations measure the temperature 1.5m (2yd) above ground level, so if the forecast in your area is for a temperature of 4°C (39°F), the temperature of your plants at ground level could be close to freezing.
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