Yūsuf al-Shirbīnī

Brains Confounded by the Ode of Abū Shādūf Expounded


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potential of an existing genre and exploited it in the service of a particular discourse.

      Publication, Reception, and Scholarly Attention

      Al-Shirbīnī’s Countryside

      A Hierarchy of Settlements

      The Egypt of Brains Confounded extends from Cairo to Dimyāṭ along the eastern branch of the Nile, on which the villages mentioned in the book (Hurbayṭ, Dundayṭ, Shanashah, Samannūd, etc.) are or were situated. The western Delta, Upper Egypt, and other parts of the country are mentioned only in passing. The settlements along this axis are of three types, which form a hierarchy.

      This hierarchy is made most explicit in the repeated and pointed descriptions of the different recipes according to which various foods are prepared in the three different settings, for, as al-Shirbīnī states at the beginning of his discussion of stewed fava beans, “things are ennobled . . . by virtue of place” (vol. 2, §11.11.2). In dietary terms, this hierarchy is keyed largely to the amount of fat used. Thus, of mallow (khubbayzah), he says: “The people of the countryside take the leaves, chop them . . . and eat them. . . . The people of the villages on the river cook it with goose and chicken and so on, and the people of the cities cook it with fatty meats . . . and they add fats, clarified cow’s butter, greens, spices, and similar things, and this is the only way it should be eaten . . . . The way the country people do it . . . is worthless, and the same goes for the people of the villages on the river, for these . . . add no clarified butter or fat . . . . The latter is, nevertheless, more refined than the recipe of the country people referred to above. The best place to eat it, however, is in the cities . . . .” (vol. 2, §11.19.3). Similar comments are made in the case of slow-cooked fava beans, fava beans mashed with Jew’s mallow (bīsār), lentils, and rice pudding. In the latter case, al-Shirbīnī adds that “people of Turkish descent make it with milk alone, without water, and add just a little rice . . . this kind is the best tasting and most appetizing” (vol. 2, §11.25.2), thus placing the latter in a kind of supra-urban category.

      The Three Estates of al-Shirbīnī’s Rural Society

      The terms most frequently used in Brains Confounded to designate its subjects collectively are ahl al-rīf and al-rayyāfah, both meaning “the people of the countryside.” The presence in Part One of Brains Confounded of three