Dogs and All about Them. Robert Leighton

prizes at various shows held under Kennel Club Rules.

      The pioneers of this movement, so far as history records their names, were Dr. Edwardes-Ker, an enthusiast both in theory and in practice, from whose caustic pen dissentients were wont to suffer periodical castigation; Mr. W. G. Weager, who has held office in the club for some twenty years; Mrs. Mayhew, who capably held her own amongst her fellow-members of the sterner sex; Mr. Freeman Lloyd, who wrote an interesting pamphlet on the breed in 1889; and Messrs. J. Thomas and Parry Thomas.

      Theirs can have been no easy task at the outset, for it devolved upon them to lay down, in a succinct and practical form, leading principles for the guidance of future enthusiasts. It runs thus:—

      * * * * *

      GENERAL APPEARANCE—A strong, compact-looking dog of great symmetry, absolutely free from legginess, profusely coated all over, very elastic in its gallop, but in walking or trotting he has a characteristic ambling or pacing movement, and his bark should be loud, with a peculiar pot casse ring in it. Taking him all round, he is a thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog, with a most intelligent expression, free from all Poodle or Deerhound character. SKULL—Capacious, and rather squarely formed, giving plenty of room for brain power. The parts over the eyes should be well arched and the whole well covered with hair. JAW—Fairly long, strong, square and truncated; the stop should be defined to avoid a Deerhound face. The attention of judges is particularly called to the above properties, as a long, narrow head is a deformity. EYES—Vary according to the colour of the dog, but dark or wall eyes are to be preferred. NOSE—Always black, large, and capacious. TEETH—Strong and large, evenly placed, and level in opposition. EARS—Small, and carried flat to side of head, coated moderately. LEGS—The fore-legs should be dead straight, with plenty of bone, removing the body to a medium height from the ground, without approaching legginess; well coated all round. FEET—Small, round; toes well arched and pads thick and hard. TAIL—Puppies requiring docking must have an appendage left of one and a half to two inches and the operation performed when not older than four days. NECK AND SHOULDERS—The neck should be fairly long, arched gracefully, and well coated with hair; the shoulders sloping and narrow at the points, the dog standing lower at the shoulder than at the loin. BODY—Rather short and very compact, ribs well sprung, and brisket deep and capacious. The loin should be very stout and gently arched, while the hind-quarters should be round and muscular, and with well let down hocks, and the hams densely coated with a thick long jacket in excess of any other part. COAT—Profuse, and of good hard texture, not straight but shaggy and free from curl. The undercoat should be a waterproof pile, when not removed by grooming or season. COLOUR—Any shade of grey, grizzle, blue or blue-merled, with or without white markings, or in reverse; any shade of brown or sable to be considered distinctly objectionable and not to be encouraged. HEIGHT—Twenty-two inches and upwards for dogs, slightly less for bitches. Type, character, and symmetry are of the greatest importance, and on no account to be sacrificed to size alone.

      * * * * *

      Turning to the questions of care and kennel management, we may start with the puppy. It is obvious that where bone and substance are matters of special desirability, it is essential to build up in the infant what is to be expected of the adult. For this reason it is a great mistake to allow the dam to bring up too many by herself. To about six or seven she can do justice, but a healthy bitch not infrequently gives birth to a dozen or more. Under such circumstances the services of a foster-mother are a cheap investment. By dividing the litter the weaklings may be given a fair chance in the struggle for existence, otherwise they receive scant consideration from their stronger brethren.

      At three or four days old the tails should be removed, as near the rump as possible. The operation is easy to perform, and if done with a sharp, clean instrument there is no danger of after ill effects.

      If the mother be kept on a very liberal diet, it will usually be found that she will do all that is necessary for her family's welfare for the first three weeks, by which time the pups have increased prodigiously in size. They are then old enough to learn to lap for themselves, an accomplishment which they very speedily acquire. Beginning with fresh cow's milk for a week, their diet may be gradually increased to Mellin's or Benger's food, and later to gruel and Quaker Oats, their steadily increasing appetites being catered for by the simple exercise of commonsense. Feed them little and often, about five times a day, and encourage them to move about as much as possible; and see that they never go hungry, without allowing them to gorge. Let them play until they tire, and sleep until they hunger again, and they will be found to thrive and grow with surprising rapidity. At six weeks old they can fend for themselves, and shortly afterwards additions may be made to their diet in the shape of paunches, carefully cleaned and cooked, and Spratt's Puppy Rodnim. A plentiful supply of fresh milk is still essential. Gradually the number of their meals may be decreased, first to four a day, and later on to three, until at six months old they verge on adolescence; and may be placed upon the rations of the adult dog, two meals a day.

      Meanwhile, the more fresh air and sunshine, exercise, and freedom they receive, the better will they prosper, but care must be taken that they are never allowed to get wet. Their sleeping-place especially must be thoroughly dry, well ventilated, and scrupulously clean.

      As to the adult dog, his needs are three: he must be well fed, well housed, and well exercised. Two meals a day suffice him, but he likes variety, and the more his fare can be diversified the better will he do justice to it. Biscuits, Rodnim, Flako, meat, vegetables, paunches, and sheep's heads, with an occasional big bone to gnaw, provide unlimited change, and the particular tastes of individuals should be learned and catered for.

      As to the bob-tail's kennel, there is no need whatever for a high-priced fancy structure. Any weatherproof building will do, provided it be well ventilated and free from draughts. In very cold weather a bed of clean wheat straw is desirable, in summer the bare boards are best. In all weathers cleanliness is an absolute essential, and a liberal supply of fresh water should be always available.

      Grooming is an important detail in a breed whose picturesqueness depends so largely on the profuseness of their shaggy coats, but there is a general tendency to overdo it. A good stiff pair of dandy brushes give the best results, but the coats must not be allowed to mat or tangle, which they have a tendency to do if not properly attended to. Mats and tangles, if taken in time, can generally be teased out with the fingers, and it is the greatest mistake to try and drag them out with combs. These last should be used as little as possible, and only with the greatest care when necessary at all. An over-groomed bob-tail loses half his natural charm. Far preferable is a muddy, matted, rough-and-tumble-looking customer, with his coat as Nature left it.