George Hamlin Fitch

The Critic in the Orient


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Following page 134 One of the Main Gates to Government House, Calcutta XLI A Street Scene in Calcutta XLII The Great Burning Ghat at Benares XLIII View of the Bathing Ghats at Benares XLIV A Holy Man of Benares Under His Umbrella XLV The Residency at Lucknow XLVI Tomb of Itmad-ul-Daulet at Agra XLVII The Mutiny Memorial at Cawnpore XLVIII Detail of Carving in the Jasmine Tower, Agra XLIX The Jasmine Tower in Agra Fort L Snap-shot of a Jain Family at Agra LI The Fort at Agra Which Encloses Many Palaces LII Kutab Minar, the Arch and the Iron Pillar, near Delhi LIII Shah Jehan's Heaven on Earth, Delhi LIV Street View in Delhi LV A Parsee Tower of Silence at Bombay LVI Egypt Following page 164 A Typical Street in Old Cairo LVII An Arab Cafe in One of Cairo's Streets LVIII Women Water Carriers in Turkish Costume LIX The Rameseon at Karnak LX The Avenue of Sphinxes at Karnak LXI An Arab Village on the Nile LXII The Colossi of Memnon, near Thebes LXIII The Great Sphinx, Showing the Temple Underneath LXIV

       Table of Contents

      This book of impressions of the Far East is called "The Critic in the Orient," because the writer for over thirty years has been a professional critic of new books—one trained to get at the best in all literary works and reveal it to the reader. This critical work—a combination of rapid reading and equally rapid written estimate of new publications—would have been deadly, save for a love of books, so deep and enduring that it has turned drudgery into pastime and an enthusiasm for discovering good things in every new book which no amount of literary trash was ever able to smother.

      After years of such strenuous critical work, the mind becomes molded in a certain cast. It is as impossible for me to put aside the habit of the literary critic as it would be for a hunter who had spent his whole life in the woods to be content in a great city. So when I started out on this trip around the world the critical apparatus which I had used in getting at the heart of books was applied to the people and the places along this great girdle about the globe.

      Much of the benefit of foreign travel depends upon the reading that one has done. For years my eager curiosity about places had led me to read everything printed about the Orient and the South Seas. Add to this the stories which were brought into a newspaper office by globe trotters and adventurers, and you have an equipment which made me at times seem to be merely revising impressions made on an earlier journey. When you talk with a man who has spent ten or twenty years in Japan or China or the Straits Settlements, you cannot fail to get something of the color of life in those strange lands, especially if you have the newspaper training which impels you to ask questions and to drag out of your informant everything of human interest that the reader will care to know.

      This newspaper instinct, which is developed by training but which one must possess in large measure before he can be successful in journalism, seizes upon everything and transmutes it into "copy" for the printer. To have taken this journey without setting down every day my impressions of places and people would have been a tiresome experience. What seemed labor to others who had not had my special training was as the breath in my nostrils. Even in the debilitating heat of the tropics it was always a pastime, never a task, to put into words my ideas of the historic places which I knew so well from years of reading and which I had just seen. And the richer the background of history, the greater was my enjoyment in painting with words full of color a picture of my impressions, for the benefit of those who were not able to share my pleasure in the actual sight of these famous places of the Far East.

      From the mass of newspaper letters written while every impression was sharp and clear, I have selected what seemed to me most significant and illustrative. It is only when the traveler looks back over a journey that he gets the true perspective. Then only is he able to see what is of general and permanent interest. Most of the vexations of travel I have eliminated, as these lose their force once they have gone over into yesterday. What remains is the beauty of scenery, the grandeur of architecture, the spiritual quality of famous paintings and statues, the appealing traits of various peoples.

      The Best

       Results of Travel in

       the Orient

       Table of Contents

      This volume includes impressions of the first half of a trip around the world. The remainder of the journey will fill a companion volume, which will comprise two chapters devoted to New York and the effect it produced on me after seeing the great cities of the world. As I have said in the preface, these are necessarily first impressions, jotted down when fresh and clear; but it is doubtful whether a month spent in any of these places would have forced a revision of these first glimpses, set in the mordant of curiosity and enthusiasm. When the mind is