John Lort Stokes

Discoveries in Australia (Vol. 1&2)


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named this Skeleton Point from our finding here the remains of a native, placed in a semi-recumbent position under a wide spreading gum tree, enveloped, or more properly, shrouded, in the bark of the papyrus. All the bones were closely packed together, the larger being placed outside, and the general mass surmounted by the head, resting on its base, the fleshless, eyeless skull grinning horribly over the right side. Some of the natives arrived shortly after we had discovered this curious specimen of their mode of sepulture; but although they entertain peculiar opinions upon the especial sanctity of the house appointed for all living--a sanctity we certainly were not altogether justified in disregarding--they made no offer of remonstrance at the removal of the mortal remains of their dead brother. Whether here, as in the neighbourhood of Fremantle, they regarded us as near kindred of their own under a new guise, and so perhaps might suppose that we took away the dry bones in order to rebuild the frame of which they before formed the support, and to clothe the hideous nakedness of death with the white man's flesh; or whether, deeming us indeed profane violators of that last resting-place of suffering humanity, which it seems an almost instinctive feeling to regard with reverence, they left the office of retribution either to the spirit of the departed, or the more potent boyl-yas--to be found upon the testimony of Miago in the wicked north--I know not; certain it is that under the superintendence of Mr. Bynoe the removal was effected, and that the skeleton itself, presented by that officer to Captain Grey, was by him bestowed upon the Royal College of Surgeons, in whose museum it is now to be found.

      Among the ornithological specimens obtained here was one of the curlew tribe, greatly resembling an ibis, and remarkable for its size. It measured from the extremity of the bill to the tip of the toe 27½ inches, and weighed 1 pound 14½ ounces. The colour, with the exception of the belly and legs, which were of a dirty white slightly mottled, very much resembled that of the common English wild duck.

      KILEYS.

      KILEYS OF KING SOUND AND SWAN RIVER.

      One of the natives seen to-day had with him a kiley, so different in shape to any we had previously seen that I preserved a sketch of it. All the party wore their hair tied up behind, and each had suffered the loss of one of the front teeth in the upper jaw: and some had endured an extraordinary mutilation; apparently in exaggeration of an ancient Jewish rite. In general appearance they resembled the natives previously seen at Point Swan.

      OUR PARTING LEGACY.

      They appeared to luxuriate in the water we had found, wondered at the size of our well, and expressed the greatest admiration of our skill in thus procuring this needful article; and I do not doubt but that long after every other recollection of our visit shall have passed away, this beneficial memorial of it will perpetuate the visit of H.M.S. Beagle, to this part of the great continent of Australia.

      CHAPTER 1.6. POINT CUNNINGHAM TO FITZROY RIVER.

       Table of Contents

      Survey the Coast to Point Cunningham.

       Move the Ship.

       Mosquitoes.

       Southern View of King's Sound.

       Singular vitreous Formation.

       Move to the south of Point Cunningham.

       Captain King's limit.

       Termination of Cliffy Range.

       Disaster Bay.

       An Exploring Party leave in the boats.

       The shore.

       A freshwater lake.

       Valentine Island.

       Native Fire and Food.

       A heavy squall.

       The wild Oat.

       Indications of a River.

       Point Torment.

       Gouty-stem Tree and Fruit.

       Limits of its growth.

       Another squall.

       Water nearly fresh alongside.

       The Fitzroy River.

       Tide Bore and dangerous position of the Yawl.

       Ascent of the Fitzroy.

       Appearance of the adjacent land.

       Return on foot.

       Perilous situation and providential escape.

       Survey the western shore.

       Return to the Ship.

       Sporting, Quail and Emus.

       Natives.

       Ship moved to Point Torment.

      February 21, 1838.

      We remained at this sheltered anchorage until the 21st, by which time the coast, so far as Point Cunningham, had been carefully examined. We found it everywhere indented with deep bays, in each of which good anchorage was to be found. The water's edge was in almost every place fringed with the closely twining mangrove trees, behind which the country gradually rose to an average level of about 200 feet, being thickly covered with the various sorts of Eucalypti, for which all the explored portions of this continent are more or less remarkable.

      In the afternoon of the 21st, we moved into a bay North-West of Point Cunningham, and anchored in 8 fathoms (low-water) about a mile North-West from that point; having passed over a bank of 5 or 6 fathoms, with 12 on its outer, and 10 on its inner side, and lying 2¼ miles north from Point Cunningham.

      MOSQUITOES.

      I spent the early part of this night on shore, a circumstance of which the tormenting mosquitoes took every possible advantage; finally driving me from their territory with every indignity, and in a state of mind anything but placid. The poet doubtless spoke from experience when he asserted:

      --there was never yet philosopher That could endure the toothache patiently.

      And even could such a prodigy of patient endurance be found, I am sure it would fail him when exposed to the ceaseless persecution of these inexorable assailants.

      February 22.

      The greater part of to-day was spent in making a more minute examination of the bay, the shoal discovered yesterday rendering a more careful search necessary. From the summit of Point Cunningham, I had a fine view of the opposite shore of the sound; very broken and rugged it appeared to be. To the South-East and south I could see no land; a circumstance which raised my hopes of finding in that direction the long and anxiously expected river, which the geological formation of the country, and all the recorded experience of discovery, alike warranted us in anticipating. The point upon which I stood was a steep and cliffy rock facing the sea, connected with the mainland by a low and narrow neck of land, but almost insulated at high-water during the spring tides. A singular cliff, projecting on its South-East side, is called by Captain King, Carlisle Head; but we searched in vain for the fresh water, which that distinguished navigator speaks of, as having been found there by him in 1819.

      SINGULAR VITREOUS FORMATION.

      We remarked here, certain vitreous formations, in all, except form, identical with those already described as having been seen at Point Swan. These were small balls lying loose on the sandy beach, at the bottom of the cliff; they were highly glazed upon the surface, hollow inside, and varying in size from a musket, to a tennis ball.*

      (*Footnote. Vide Mr. Darwin on "superficial ferrugineous beds" Geology of Volcanic Islands page 143.)

      February 23.

      We weighed early in the morning, and rounded Point Cunningham; anchoring again at 10 o'clock A.M., 8 miles north of it, in 7 fathoms (low-water); West by North, one mile from where we lay, a red cliffy head, called by Captain King, in memory of the difficulties which ultimately compelled him to leave this interesting coast, Foul Point, marks the limit of his survey