which is the best product to use for docks. You’ll find a vast choice of compounds, shapes, sizes, colors, and surface patterns, each with unique characteristics. Though character differences distinguish them, subtle or extreme, a common trait is greater weight than that of the usual PT wood or cedar decking. The added weight won’t matter as much for permanent installations that are a one-time move; otherwise, think twice before putting this material down on dock sections that are meant to be portable. When you read the specifications on a given product, you’ll often find that the spacing of timbers in your framing will need to be at 16 inches (40.64 centimeters) apart, not 24 inches (60.96 centimeters), and should each be of a 2x8 (38 by 184 millimeter) minimum. Hollow composite decking will alleviate some of the weight, but it can be heavy and more suitable for permanent docks that won’t be handled annually (such as portable docks in the north). I have known people to panelize the heavy composite as described above with varying degrees of success. Many synthetics may warp if not fastened permanently down to the frame, so beware of that potential before panelizing. Comparable to most of the solid synthetic boards on the market, hollow PVC decking that has a material much like vinyl gutter, but more durable, is likely a better choice for portable dock sections. To minimize the overall dock section’s weight, I recommend shopping for the hollow PVC decking by the specifications. Look for brands rated to span 24 inches (61 centimeters) and with the least weight.
Synthetic pre-panelized decking.
Pre-Panelized Decking
If maintenance-free panelized decking is important to you, consider buying a synthetic deck panel that is already made. Don’t be surprised if you cannot find this sort of thing on the shelf in a local store, but search “deck panel for docks” online, and I’d expect you’ll find different types and companies that will ship directly to you. One popular choice that I have used many times has an anti-skid, perforated surface that stays cool under the sun and allows dirt that tracks onto the dock to pass through before ending up in the boat. The perforated surface can also save a dock on a body of water that is likely to flood at times, allowing the tips of the waves to break through instead of pounding along the underside. It fastens down easily with screws and is much lighter than many other synthetic choices. If you would rather have a solid surface or the simulation of wood, there are premade panels without the perforation, some with a resin base, others made from aluminum. If keeping the weight down is one of your objectives, I recommend shopping by the specifications. Determine the weight per square foot (per square meter) of the panel when comparing one to another. Also, the more it will span between supports, the fewer framing members you’ll need, keeping the weight in lumber down as well.
Smart Sizes
There is economy in making dock sections longer over shorter ones when deciding how to best make up the footprint. There will be fewer sections to handle, fewer legs or pilings to install, and less hardware needed. But, remember, the longer you make them the heavier they’ll be, potentially weighing more than what you want to lift. Since many DIYers work alone or with no more than one other person, keep in mind the fact that size sections for your project shouldn’t be larger than what you can handle. To follow, I’ve included plans for some popular sizes that many DIYers work with. For light, residential-grade docks, the sizes featured ahead can be built with 2-inch by 6-inch (38- by 140-millmeter) stringers and 1-inch by 6-inch (19- by 140-millimeter) decking. Choose a lightweight decking, like cedar, and opt for a plan that minimizes the framing to a 24-inch (61-centimeter) span. Also, consider making removable deck panels as shown earlier if you really want to lighten it up.
Summing It Up
In the upcoming chapters, you’ll see how I think of docks as comprised of sections: at the planning stage (where I visualize the footprint coming together in sections), the building stage, and the installation stage. Regardless of the classification (fixed, floating, fixed to floating, and rolling), you’ll see how sections will be used in this book for all types.
CHAPTER 4:
FIXED DOCKS
The Benefits and Best Conditions
Standing on legs like an oversized table, the fixed dock provides sturdy and stable access from ship to shore. Fixed means that it is not meant to move or to float on the water; the fixed dock remains stationary. A fixed dock may be a permanent structure or one that is made portable in severely cold climates, removed before winter ice takes effect. Its legs, using standard wooden posts from a lumber store or galvanized steel pipe, are usually set into the riverbed, lake bed, or seabed for dependable boat anchorage. For lighter service applications, depending on the environment, there are options that simply stand the fixed dock’s legs on feet or skids. Following my description of suitable environments for fixed docks, I will provide you, in detail, four of the best proven DIY methods for building them that won’t break your wallet or your back.
For seven years, I lived on Long Lake in Naples, Maine, where my fixed dock faced north with several miles of open water between it and Mt. Washington. Some days, it was a peaceful paradise. On other days, wind swept down from the nearby mountain to deliver an onslaught of waves. Relentless were the rollers, 2 to 3 feet (60.96 to 91.44 centimeters) high with whitecaps that would crest and crash over the rocky shore. Intrepidly, however, the fixed dock stood firmly on its legs in the middle of it all. At the right height, it provided the most solid and dependable walking surface, regardless of the ominous turbulence below. When a wave rises under a fixed dock—provided the decking is above the largest wave—there is practically no surface area significant for the wave to lift against, leaving the dock and it occupants unscathed. On fair days, the lake buzzed with boats zipping around and cutting up the water. Nevertheless, with all the chop, anyone could sit out there and read or sunbathe without getting jostled. Properly built, the fixed dock should not shake or sway when walked on. There should be minimal motion if it experiences a normal bump by a boat. For anyone physically challenged or with poor balance, the fixed dock (in the right environment) is what I would recommend. For the best results, consider the following conditions.
A well-built fixed dock stands firm and ready to receive its vessels.
Pounding white-capped waves roll relentlessly under a fixed dock that remains unmoved and unscathed at its safe height above the water.
The Body of Water
A fixed dock could be put into water that is either calm or choppy, but it works best where the water level doesn’t fluctuate greatly. Near my home in Maine, where northern climates require most docks to be portable and to be removed before winter ice sets in. Not far away is Sebago Lake, where fixed docks are most popular because of the chop from wind and heavy boat traffic. Floating docks often don’t stand up well on that lake unless they are on a protected shoreline. As with the dock I had on Long Lake, fixed docks on Sebago aren’t affected by waves provided they are