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FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
I grew up with a firefighter dad, and because of that, fire safety has been ingrained into me. I keep three fire extinguishers in my shop (see below). Not to mention, I also have two large buckets full of water at all times that I use for cooling steel. Anyone using a forge or working around power tools and other heat sources should have a fire extinguisher on hand.
When selecting a fire extinguisher it’s important to understand the different types. The most common types are classified as Class A, B, or C.
Keep Class A and Class B fire extinguishers nearby.
Class A fire extinguishers are effective against fires involving wood, paper, trash, textiles, or plastics. Class B fire extinguishers are effective against liquid fires involving gasoline, kerosene, oils, or even paints. Class C fire extinguishers are effective against electrical fires involving live electrical equipment. So just try to remember: Class A is for trash, Class B is for liquid, and Class C is for electrical.
I recommend keeping a Class A or a general-purpose extinguisher on hand in case of emergency. And if you’re quenching a hot blade into oil (a step that I cover later on), keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby too. Never dump a bucket of water on an oil fire. Oil has a lower density than water, meaning it will always float on top. Adding water to an oil fire will only help the fire travel. A bucket of sand or fine dirt would do a better job than water.
DUST COLLECTION
This is my dust collection system, featuring a disposable collection bag.
Dust collection devices are used near or connected to any tool that kicks up a lot of dust. I turn on my dust collector when I’m shaping handle material and it does a great job at keeping the dust level down. This helps to keep your lungs safe and saves you some cleanup time at the end of the day. Avoid using your dust collection device for both grinding metal and sanding wood. The sparks can mix with the wood dust inside of the dust chamber and potentially cause the dust to catch fire.
EYE WASH
Eye wash bottles, or better yet an eye wash sink, can really come in handy. I’m pretty adamant about wearing eye protection, but I still seem to get the occasional particle in my eye. A proper eye wash solution will be the best choice for flushing your eyes if needed.
Eye washing stations provide on-the-spot decontamination. When particles enter your eye, it’s best to take care of the problem immediately.
PROPER LIGHTING
Something else that is often overlooked is proper lighting. If you can’t see what you’re doing, you greatly increase your chances of injury in the shop. This will also help your eyes from straining in a dark room. I recommend installing a few bright LED lights.
Tools for the Beginning Knifemaker
Make sure you’ve read the safety material first. If you go blind or burn your shop down, you won’t get much more use out of any of these tools.
I’ve narrowed things down to create a very budget-friendly and modest group of ten tools that will get anybody started making knives. Many people may already find most of these tools in their home, and if not this entire list of tools can be bought new for around $150. You can always make upgrades as you move along, but these ten tools will prove their worth in any knifemaker’s shop.
1. FILE
From top: Single-cut file, half-round file.
The first tool on the list is a file. More specifically, a single-cut file, also known as a bastard-cut mill file. This tool can be used for fine-tuning a blade profile as well as to form bevels. A sharp file will make fast work of soft (annealed) steel, and the use of a file card or a wire brush will help to prevent the file from clogging up during use. A file may be slower at cutting steel than a belt grinder, but it has a much lower price tag—a quality file can be bought new for around $6.
2. RASP
A rasp is a much coarser form of file, used to shape wood and other materials. Rasps are great at shaping most handle materials. I recommend getting your hands on a half-round rasp. This shape offers both a flat side and a rounded side for more versatility during handle shaping. A four-in-hand is also a great option. This is a combination tool that features both a half-round rasp and a half-round file. A quality rasp can be bought new for around $7.
From top: Four-in-hand rasp, half-round rasp, rasp.
3. FORGE
My firebrick forge.
If you plan to buy a forge, you might spend $200– $300 on a very basic model. However I’d recommend any beginner to fashion his or her own forge using firebricks and a blowtorch. I go over this in detail on here. The price of firebricks and a simple blowtorch usually don’t exceed $35. Keep in mind that the gas cylinder on a torch will need to be replaced.
If you plan to use your forge for more than just heat-treating, you may consider buying or making a forge burner and using it with a full-size propane tank. I’m recommending gas forges because they are safer in the sense that they can be shut off in a matter of seconds. They are also low-odor and nonthreatening to your lungs, unlike coal forges.
4. QUENCHING CONTAINER AND MEDIUM
My quenching container. See here for how to quench steel safely.
In order to heat-treat your knife you’ll need a safe, metal container for quenching. It doesn’t need to be huge unless your blades are huge. The rule of thumb is to use one gallon of quenching liquid per pound of steel you plan to quench. A metal paint can, a small pale, or even an ammunition box will work great for this; just be sure that whatever you use is watertight. My favorite quenching medium is canola oil and that’s what I recommend to any beginner. You can pick up a small metal container and a gallon of canola oil for around $8.
Canola oil.
5. TEMPERING OVEN