Wheat noodles Thin, pale strands of various widths made, at their most basic, from a dough of wheat flour and water. Often flavoured with ingredients such as shrimp, crab or spinach, wheat noodles are sold fresh or, more commonly, dried. They are versatile noodles, inherently resilient, and readily absorb flavours. In northern China, where they originated, they are typically served in soups or stir-fried.
Udon Plump, white Japanese noodles made from a dough of wheat flour and water, and sometimes vinegar to make them whiter. Udon are formed in various dimensions: the fresh ones are usually fat and square-cut, while the dried versions may be flat, square or round in cross section. Neutral in flavour, their character is in their texture – soft, chewy and slippery. Udon are popular in the south of Japan, where traditionally they are served in soups.
PREPARING NOODLES
Noodles are generally boiled, or reconstituted in boiling water, until they are softened but still firm, before further preparation.
Rice and Bean noodles
Rice vermicelli Fine, dried, brittle noodles made from an extruded paste of rice flour and water. Translucent when dry, when cooked they become opaque. Vermicelli are versatile, used throughout Asia in soups, stir fries and spring rolls to add texture and contrast; either soft or deep-fried until crisp, their neutral taste is a vehicle for strong flavours. The Chinese call rice vermicelli ‘rice sticks’, but see below.
Rice stick noodles Dried, brittle, flat ribbon noodles ranging in width from narrow to broad. Made from a paste of rice flour and water, like rice vermicelli, they are translucent when dry, becoming opaque when cooked. Though similarly bland in taste, being thicker they are more robust and elastic. Rice sticks are commonly used in Vietnam and Thailand, notably in the famous pad Thai.
Bean thread noodles Fine, wiry, shimmering, translucent noodles extruded from a paste of mung bean starch and water. Extremely tough when dry, they need soaking before cooking (unless deep-frying) when they become glassy and transparent, with a gelatinous, slithery texture. They absorb a lot of cooking liquid so, being relatively tasteless, take on its flavours. Used throughout Asia in spring rolls, soups, braised dishes and desserts, their many names include cellophane, glass, jelly, silver and shining noodles.
Bean curd noodles Brittle, shiny, plastic-looking tubes cut from the thin, golden, crinkly sheets of dried bean curd, made by drying either thin layers of compressed soya bean curds or the skin which forms on top of heated soya milk. Unless being added to broth, they should be reconstituted in water before use. To eat they are rubbery and bland, with an almost-smoky aroma. Also called soya noodles.
Asian wrappers
Rice papers Thin, brittle sheets, round, square or wedge-shaped, made from a rice and water paste and textured with the basket-weave imprint of their bamboo drying mats. They become flexible when moistened with water. They are used to wrap the spring rolls of Vietnam (where they are called bahn trang) and Thailand.
Wonton wrappers Paper-thin squares (typically 8cm/3in) of smooth pastry made from plain flour, salt, egg and cold water. Sold stacked, dusted with flour to prevent them sticking together, they are used to make wontons (Chinese dumplings). They are also called wonton skins.
Mandarin pancakes Thin, round Chinese pancakes made from plain flour and boiling water and cooked on a dry griddle. Steamed, they are the traditional accompaniment to Peking duck, and are also used to wrap other savoury mixtures.
Chinese dumpling wrappers Thicker sheets of pastry made from plain wheat flour and water. Also known as ‘gow gee wrappers’, they are used to wrap Chinese dumplings (gyoza) and for other savoury fillings.
Sushi wrapper Paper-thin, glossy, rectangular sheets of dried seaweed, of the genus Pophyra, ranging in colour from purplish-black to green. Toasted, as it should be before use, it becomes dark green, crisp and more flavoursome, and is called yaki-nori. It is also sold ready-toasted. Most commonly used to wrap the Japanese vinegared rice speciality, sushi, when it is called sushi-nori, it is also crumbled over other foods to add flavour. (See also p198.)
Naan/Nan A flattened, natural yeast-leavened wheat bread of India and Central Asia. Traditionally cooked slapped against the clay walls of a tandoor oven, naan is teardrop-shaped, puffy and blackened, with a crisp crust, soft centre and smoky flavour.
Flatbreads
Chapati/Roti A round, unleavened everyday bread of the Indian subcontinent, made from atta flour, salt and water, and cooked without fat on a griddle, until puffed. Roti is also a general term for griddle-cooked flat unleavened bread and takes many forms.
Poppadom/Papadam/Papadum Wafer-thin Indian flatbread discs made of lentil or cereal flours, sometimes spiced. Sun-dried until brittle, then roasted or fried until crisp and puffed, they is served as an accompaniment.
Taco shell A corn tortilla folded in half and deep-fried to a crisp U-shape. Adapted by Tex-Mex cuisine, taco shells are typically filled with minced (ground) meat, shredded lettuce, grated cheese and salsa, and eaten as a snack.
Ciabatta A free-form stubby bread, originally from Como (Italy), named for the slipper-shape it resembles. The very wet dough, which contains both milk and olive oil, results in a light, porous chewy crumb with large holes and a thin crust.
Matzah/Matzo Thin, crisp unleavened bread,