Marc Spagnuolo

Essential Joinery


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      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      Butt Joints | CORNER CASE BUTT JOINT USING BISCUITS

      4. The adjoining panel receives

       slots on the face of the panel. Use

       a piece of scrap on the back side

       to help keep the biscuit joiner

       square and balanced.

      5. Insert biscuits into the slots.

       I prefer #20 biscuits for most

       casework.

      6. Assemble the joint. When

       being careful about which face of

       the board we use for reference,

       it’s very easy to get a perfectly

       flush fit.

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      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      CORNER CASE BUTT JOINT USING DOMINOES

      While the Domino cuts what is technically a loose mortise and tenon joint, for

       casework, the Dominoes function in the same way a biscuit does.

      1. Arrange the parts to be

       joined and mark the center point

       of each Domino in the same

       fashion as when using the biscuit

       joiner (page 24). Plunge mortises at each pencil location on both workpieces.

      2. Plunge mortises into the

       adjoining pieces using a piece

       of scrap behind the work for

       additional support.

      3. Assemble the joint.

      4. Check for square and make

       sure the outside surface is flush.

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      TOOLS

      Domino joiner

      Adjustable square

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      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      FLAT 45° MITERS: A FRAME

      A flat miter joint is a butt joint where each piece is mitered at an angle (usually 45°).

       The most common and recognizable application for this is the classic picture frame.

       You’ll also see flat miter joints in doors and other applications where a decorative

       frame is required.

      45° MITERS on TABLESAW Using MITER GAUGE

      TOOLS

      Square

      Tablesaw

      Miter gauge

      1. Use a large accurate square

       to calibrate the miter gauge,

       making sure it is perfectly

       perpendicular to the blade.

      2. Set the miter gauge to 45°.

       Most quality miter gauges will be

       accurate at 45° as long as they

       are calibrated correctly at 90°,

       but we’ll double-check using test

       pieces. Don’t forget to slide the

       miter gauge as needed to keep it

       out of the path of the blade.

      3. Using a stop block on the

       miter gauge, make a test cut on

       two jointed and planed pieces

       of scrap.

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      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      FLAT 45° MITERS: A FRAME | Butt Joints

      4. Place the 45° miters together

       to form a 90° corner and check for

       square. If the miter gauge is off,

       this measuring method makes it

       easy to see because your error is

       essentially doubled.

      5. Set the gauge slightly to

       the side of the 45° notch and test

       cut again.

      6. Now the two 45° cuts result

       in a perfect 90° corner.

      7. Cut the actual workpieces

       using stop on the miter gauge.

      8. Save those little triangle

       offcuts for clamping help later.

      9. The miters should be nice and

       even when held side by side.

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      ESSENTIAL JOINERY

      Butt Joints | FLAT 45° MITERS: A FRAME

      45° FLAT MITERS with MITER SAW

      TOOLS

      Miter saw

      Square

      Clamp

      1. Use a reliable square to make

       sure the miter saw fence is

       square to the blade.

      2. Adjust the saw to 45° and

       use two jointed and planed pieces

       of scrap to make two test cuts.

      3. Put the 45° miters together

       and check for square. As you can

       see, there is quite a bit of error to

       adjust for.

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      TIP

      When making precise cuts

       at the miter saw, it’s a good

      idea to use a clamp. The workpiece

       won’t move and you won’t need to

       use as much hand pressure to hold

       the piece in place.

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