Fowke Gerard

The Story of Hawaii: History, Customs, Mythology, Geography & Archaeology


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      VIII.--COSTUME OF THE HULA DANCER

       Table of Contents

      The costume of the hula dancer was much the same for both sexes, its chief article a simple short skirt about the waist, the pa-ú. (PL I.)

      When the time has come for a dance, the halau becomes one common dressing room. At a signal from the kumu the work begins. The putting on of each article of costume is accompanied by a special song.

      First come the ku-pe'e, anklets of whale teeth, bone, shell-work, dog-teeth, fiber-stuffs, and what not. While all stoop in unison they chant the song of the anklet:

       Mele Ku-pe'e

      He Wai-kaloa ka makani anu Lihue.

      Ku'u pua,

      Ku'u pua i'ini e ku-i a lei.

      Ina ia oe ke lei 'a mai la.

      [Translation]

       Anklet-Song

      Fragrant the grasses of high. Kane-hoa.

      Bind on the anklets, bind!

      Bind with finger deft as the wind

      That cools the air of this bower.

      Lehua bloom pales at my flower,

      O sweetheart of mine,

      Bud that I'd pluck and wear in my wreath,

      If thou wert but a flower!

      The short skirt, pa-u, was the most important piece of attire worn by the Hawaiian female. As an article of daily wear it represented many stages of evolution beyond the primitive fig-leaf, being fabricated from a great variety of materials furnished by the garden of nature. In its simplest terms the pa-ú was a mere fringe of vegetable fibers. When placed as the shield of modesty about the loins of a woman of rank, or when used as the full-dress costume of a dancing girl on a ceremonious occasion, it took on more elaborate forms, and was frequently of tapa, a fabric the finest specimens of which would not have shamed the wardrobe of an empress.

      In the costuming of the hula girl the same variety obtained as in the dress of a woman of rank. Sometimes her pa-ú would be only a close-set fringe of ribbons stripped from the bark of the hibiscus (hau), the ti leaf or banana fiber, or a fine rush, strung upon a thong to encircle the waist. In its most elaborate and formal style the pa-ú consisted of a strip of fine tapa several yards long and of width to reach nearly to the knees. It was often delicately tinted or printed, as to its outer part, with stamped figures. The part of the tapa skirt thus printed, like the outer, decorative one in a set of tapa bed-sheets, was termed the