Keith Grainger

Wine Faults and Flaws


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species of bacteria grow only in aerobic conditions – these are termed obligate aerobes, and include the dreaded Acetobacter, which can turn wine into vinegar. There are also species, termed obligate anaerobes, which grow in anaerobic conditions. The presence of oxygen poisons some of the key enzymes of obligate anaerobes, so they will not grow in aerobic conditions. There are some obligate anaerobes which require a high level of carbon dioxide for growth, as will be the case during fermentation. Facultative anaerobes are organisms that manufacture adenosine triphosphate (ATP) by aerobic respiration in the presence of oxygen, but are able to change to fermentation or anaerobic respiration in the absence of oxygen. Bacteria that grow in an acid environment are termed acidophiles, but these are very rarely present in grape musts and wines as the pH is invariably higher than they can tolerate.

      The pH of musts and wines varies considerably between extremes of pH 2.7 and 4.3 depending, inter alia, upon growing conditions including soil type, aspect, climate, and weather in the growing season. As grapes ripen, pH increases. A high pH will not only have a negative influence upon the taste profile, but increase the risk of bacterial growth. Although there are exceptions, the ideal pH of must for white wines lies in the range of pH 2.9–3.4, and for red wines pH 3.3–3.7, although in recent years this latter figure is often exceeded. Generally speaking the lower the pH the less the risk of the growth of unwanted microorganisms, but there are some bacteria, including acetic acid bacteria, that may grow in wines with a low pH.

      Although many species of bacteria are implicated in microbiological wine faults some, particularly certain lactic acid bacteria of the genus Oenococcus, perform a most useful role in the winemaking process, being responsible for the MLF, which leads to textural changes that are almost always desirable for red wines. The MLF is often undertaken for certain styles of white and sparkling wines too, but whether or not it is desired it is crucial that it never spontaneously takes place subsequent to bottling – see Chapter 9.

      1.10.2.2 Examples of Microbiological Faults

      Faults of microbiological nature that may be found in wine include

       Contamination with haloanisoles – see Chapter 3;

       Brettanomyces related faults – see Chapter 4;

       Excess volatile acidity – see Chapter 7;

       Lactic bacteria and Pediococcus related faults – see Chapter 11.

      1.10.2.3 Minimising the Occurrence Microbiological Faults

      The key tools in minimising the risk of the occurrence of microbiological faults are as follows.

      In the vineyard:

       Creating and maintaining open leaf canopies to help air‐flow;

       Controlling pests such as European grapevine moth (Lobesia botrana), and vinegar fly (Drosophila melanogaster);

       Preventing or controlling vine diseases such powdery mildew and downy mildew;

       Preventing or controlling grape rots, such as Botrytis cinerea;

       Picking only healthy and undamaged fruit;

       Picking at an appropriate pH;

       Harvesting as cool as possible and transporting to the winery without delay.

      In the winery and cellar:

       Sorting fruit to exclude rotten and damaged berries and materials other than grapes (MOGS);

       Maintaining an appropriate pH in must and wine;

       Scrupulous winery and cellar hygiene;

       Using commercial preparations of S. cerevisiae for alcoholic fermentations and lactic acid bacteria strains for the MLF.

       Careful oxygen management in wine – e.g. avoiding ullage in vats and barrels;

       Controlled temperatures for fermentation, maturation, and storage;

       Creating and maintaining a nutrient desert [22];

       Controlled humidity in the winery (maximum 75%) and barrel store (maximum 80%);

       Maintaining an appropriate level of molecular sulfur in wine.

      1.10.3 Chemical Nature Faults

      1.10.3.1 Examples of Chemical Faults

      Faults that are generally regarded as being primarily of a chemical nature include

       Excessive acetaldehyde – see Chapter 5;

       Chemical oxidation – see Chapter 5;

       Reduced aromas/reduction – see Chapter 6;

       Iron haze and copper haze – see Chapter 10;

       Eucalyptol – 1,8‐cineole – see Chapter 12;

       Smoke taint related compounds, including guaiacol, 4‐methyl‐guaiacol, 4‐methyl‐syringol, m‐cresol, o‐cresol, and p‐cresol – see Chapter 12;

       Brown marmorated stink bug related compounds, including trans‐2‐decenal – see Chapter 13.

      1.10.3.2 Minimising the Occurrence Chemical Faults

      The key tools in minimising the risk of the occurrence of chemical faults are as follows.

      In the vineyard:

       Maintaining