occupation of Cambodia came to an end, the departing Europeans had firmly left their mark on Cambodian cuisine. This dip is one such example of where the two cuisines meet at a crossroads. The idea is predominantly French, yet the ingredients remain distinctly Cambodian. Like any dip, it is best served with a crusty French baguette or some fresh crudités.
Place all the fish in a pan of simmering water with the lime zest, coriander stalks and peppercorns and poach for 4–5 minutes until cooked through. Remove from the water using a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and allow to cool.
In a frying pan, heat the oil and sauté the garlic, shallots, galangal and chillies for 3–4 minutes until all are softened. Remove from the pan and place in a mixing bowl. Flake the fish into the bowl, discarding the skin, add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Alternatively, transfer the mixture to a food processor and blend together for a smooth texture.
Taste and season if necessary, remembering that little salt should be required because of the fish ingredients. Serve with fresh, raw vegetables, such as green beans, cucumber and carrots.
MAKES 18–20
DOUGH
225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
pinch of salt
60g melted butter
warm water
FILLING
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
2cm knob of ginger, peeled and grated
1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 small sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1cm dice, then blanched
1 small potato, peeled and cut into 1cm dice, then blanched
1 tbsp curry powder
pinch of ground cumin
pinch of chilli powder tsp sea salt tsp ground white pepper
200ml vegetable stock
small handful of coriander, finely chopped
2 egg yolks, to finish
My first experience of these curry puffs, or Kari paps, was at a Malaysian version of a service station, where you could help yourself to as many as you wanted and then confess to how many you had eaten when the time came to pay! I admitted to having eaten no less than two and definitely no more than five. They were incredibly moreish.
I would describe this snack as a hybrid; the outside of a Cornish pasty with the filling of a samosa. For all those I spoke to, curry puffs evoked fond childhood memories of eagerly awaiting the day when batches were cooked, and the drifting smell from the oven as the dough turned golden brown and the filling softened and spiced in the pockets. This is a great snack for all the family.
To make the dough, combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the melted butter and 5 tablespoons of warm water. Mix with a round-bladed knife to form a dough, adding a little more water if the mixture seems too dry. Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5–10 minutes to a smooth dough. Cover with cling film and leave to rest in a cool place for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Add the oil to the wok and heat through, stir-fry the garlic and ginger for about 1 minute, until fragrant. Add the onion and fry for 2–3 minutes, until slightly caramelised. Add both types of potato, curry powder, remaining spices and seasoning and cook for 2–3 minutes, so the spices cook through. Pour in the stock and simmer gently for 6–8 minutes or until the liquid has reduced. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. When completely cool, add the coriander. Adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough into a log 5–6cm thick. Cut into 1cm slices and roll each log into a small, round pasty. Fill each with 1 tablespoon of filling. Brush the pasty edges with egg yolk and fold over the filling. Press the sides together with a fork to seal. Arrange the puffs on a greased baking sheet, brush with more egg yolk and bake for 25–30 minutes. These are best served warm.
MAKES 12
PORK
2 tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp Chinese five-spice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
300g pork tenderloin fillet, sinew removed and finely sliced
vegetable oil, for frying
DRESSING
juice of 1 lime
1 tsp fish sauce
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp caster sugar
SPRING ROLL
1 baby gem lettuce, washed, core removed and shredded
handful of coriander leaves, torn
12 sheets of rice paper, 16cm in diameter
small handful of Thai basil, picked
small handful of saw leaf or mint leaves, picked
small handful of coriander leaves, picked
200g cooked rice vermicelli noodles
12 chive flowers
12 cooked prawns, peeled, de-veined and cut in half lengthways
DIPPING SAUCE
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 red Thai chilli, finely chopped
3 tbsp hoisin sauce
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp crunchy peanut butter
4–6 tbsp coconut milk
1 tbsp tamarind paste
100–150ml water
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
In my opinion, the Nem cuon mua xuan, or fresh spring roll, sums up Vietnamese food: fresh, healthy, textural and balanced in flavour. On my travels I discovered that Vietnamese chefs can study for months learning how to make these rolls, being taught the different filling and dipping sauce combinations. Like many dishes in Vietnam, the ingredients in spring rolls vary from region to region and throughout the seasons. The chefs that I worked with in Hanoi described these as ‘summer spring rolls’.
On my last night in Vietnam I served these spring rolls as the first of seven courses. They work perfectly as an appetiser and look pretty impressive, too. For the best results you need to use the freshest ingredients. For extra crunch I have used baby gem lettuce, however, follow your palate to chop and change the ingredients in the rolls, such as using crab instead of the prawns, changing the pork for mushrooms or, if you don’t like rice noodles, add more lettuce and cucumber. The hoisin peanut dipping sauce is one of the most commonly served accompaniments to these rolls.
For the pork, mix together the sesame oil, five-spice and salt and pepper in a bowl. Add the pork strips and toss together to coat. Heat a little vegetable oil in a frying pan and stir-fry the pork strips for 2–3 minutes, until