tsp fish sauce chilli, deseeded and chopped
4 tbsp peanut oil
vegetable or groundnut oil, for brushing
MALAYSIAN PEANUT SAUCE
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 shallot, peeled and finely diced
1 red chilli (deseeded, if you prefer)
1 tbsp crushed garlic
1 tbsp crushed ginger
4 tbsp crunchy peanut butter
1 tsp tamarind paste
1 tsp dark sweet soy sauce
100ml coconut cream
50ml water
Originally an Indonesian dish, satay is now cooked all over Asia. Each Southeast Asian country has its own adaptation, but for me the Malay version is one of the best.
One lunchtime, as I parked my car in Penang, I discovered an amazing satay stall. Drifting over was the smell of the chicken sizzling on the hot coals, the distinctive marinade with its spices being charred. In the corner next to the grill, a sizeable tub of peanut sauce was eagerly waiting to be dipped into. I was left with little choice but to tuck in – and it didn’t disappoint. The ladies on the stall told me that satay used to be served at special occasions, but now it’s an everyday food.
To achieve the best flavour you should only use meat off the bone. Marinating is key; the meat needs to be left for at least 12 hours for a more developed flavour. I would recommend barbecuing the skewers to get that smoky flavour, but you can also use a grill or a griddle pan. You can substitute the chicken for pork, beef or even prawns.
Slice the chicken into thin strips. Grind together the shallots, garlic, galangal, lemongrass, turmeric and the remaining spices in a food processor or a pestle and mortar until you have a rough paste. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt, sugar and pepper. Add the fish sauce and chilli and combine. Mix the paste with the peanut oil and add to the chicken, tossing to coat well. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight, to allow all the various flavours to develop.
Soak 16 bamboo skewers (approximately 15cm long) in warm water (this will prevent them scorching) half an hour before you are ready to cook the chicken. When you are ready, thread the marinated chicken onto the skewers until they are three-quarters full, but be careful not to overcrowd each skewer.
Brush the griddle pan with oil. Allow the griddle pan to get very hot and, when ready, gently lay the satay sticks onto it. Baste the chicken with oil occasionally during cooking. Grill the chicken until it has cooked through and has begun to pick up a few crispy brown-black spots, about 5–7 minutes, turning frequently. If you are cooking the satay sticks on the barbecue the time may vary depending on how hot the coals are.
For the satay sauce, place a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the oil followed by the shallot, chilli, garlic and ginger. Sauté for 2–3 minutes until the shallots are softened and the oil begins to take on the red colour of the chilli. Add in the peanut butter and stir, breaking it down. It should start to melt. Now add the tamarind paste and dark soy sauce and stir well. Pour the coconut cream and water into the saucepan and stir for 3–4 minutes, until the peanut butter has been incorporated into the satay sauce. Simmer the mixture on a low heat for around 1–2 minutes, then turn off the heat. Serve warm with the chicken skewers.
Cambodian aubergine and mushroom dip
SERVES 4–6
2 large aubergines
10g dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in hot water
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 shallots, peeled and sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 red chilli, thinly sliced (deseeded, if you prefer)
150g fresh mixed mushrooms
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp fish sauce
1 tbsp palm sugar
1 tbsp tamarind paste handful of Thai basil leaves, shredded
crusty French baguette or chopped raw vegetables, to serve
Raw aubergines and mushrooms share one characteristic, in that their flesh is like a sponge and so beautifully absorbs other flavours during cooking. Here the Cambodian flavours of tamarind, Thai basil, garlic and chilli mesh together to create a delicious and slightly unusual dip.
There are a wide variety of aubergines and mushrooms available, but for this I would recommend using large aubergines, because these will provide the most flesh. For the mixed mushrooms, choose those with a deep woody flavour, such as oyster, chestnut and crimini.
Place the aubergines on an open gas flame and chargrill them for 25–30 minutes, turning frequently, until charred and softened.
Allow the dried mushrooms to sit in enough hot water to cover them for 20 minutes. When the mushrooms have doubled in size, drain them, reserving the liquid as you will need this later.
Heat some oil in a wide frying pan over a high heat and add the shallots, garlic and chilli and sauté for 2–3 minutes to soften. Add all the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and sauté over a high heat until golden brown and any moisture coming out of the mushrooms has been cooked off. Add the fish sauce, palm sugar and tamarind paste and fry with the other ingredients for 1 minute.
Place the mushroom mixture into a food processor. Scrape out the flesh from the aubergines and add to the processor. If necessary, add a splash of the dried mushroom soaking liquid and pulse until combined, but do not over-process as the dip should still have some texture.
Place the dip in a bowl and garnish with some shredded Thai basil leaves and serve with some crusty bread or chopped raw vegetables.
Oysters with a Thai dipping sauce
SERVES 4
rock salt and fresh seaweed, to serve (optional)
12 oysters, shucked and lower shells saved
THAI DIPPING SAUCE
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
handful of coriander stalks and leaves, roughly chopped
1 Thai red chilli, roughly chopped (deseeded, if you prefer)
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp fish sauce
juice of 2 limes
I discovered this dish in the Southern Thai region of Khlong Thom while being taken oyster diving by a local fisherman, Sard. Such was Sard’s success at catching oysters that he was able to not only support his family in this way, but also his brother’s and sister’s family too.
In the Western world oysters are considered a delicacy, but Sard and his family dined every day on some