Several aspects of the walk ensure its classic status. There are the views that encompass the whole valley and reveal its splendour in a single glance. There are the alp hamlets that enliven the route with variety and interest. And there is the path itself, a splendidly graded trail that undulates along a vague terrace, in and out of tree shade, cutting back here and there to cross a stream, rising now and then over a green bluff or passing across meadows far above the valley. Refreshments are available along the way, and in a number of places it would be possible to descend to the valley by footpath, should it be necessary.
The walk begins in Ferden village square by the church, where a signpost directs the way to Faldumalp. Soon above the village, another sign points to a path climbing among trees and up a steep grassy hillside. This rapidly gains height with steep windings, and when it emerges from forest to pasture, spectacular views are gained to the head of the valley. In 1½hrs arrive at the alp hamlet of Faldumalp (2037m), with its tiny chapel.
Retrace the approach path a short distance to where it crosses the Faldum stream and divides. Now take the left-hand option towards Restialp. This is a splendid belvedere, narrow and a little exposed in places, leading among larches and along slopes of bilberry and alpenrose. Just below Restialp come to a junction of tracks and take the path heading left up the slope to the hamlet, where refreshments are available.
The Bietschhorn is clearly seen from the Lötschentaler Höhenweg
A track continues to Kummenalp (in 30mins), with fine views throughout. Accommodation and refreshments are also available here, and behind the hamlet an alternative path climbs to the Lötschenpass (see Walk 10). The höhenweg maintains its journey along the hillside, heading roughly eastward for another 40mins to Hockenalp (2048m: refreshments), with views dominated by the Bietschhorn. Hockenalp is a cluster of timber chalets and hay barns, and from it the path continues across hillsides seething with crickets in summer to reach the slopes of Lauchernalp in 20mins. The valley’s only ski tows and chairlifts run across the open bowl of hillside; Lauchernalp also has both refreshments and accommodation. Note: It’s possible to descend by cablecar to Wiler from here.
The continuing path descends a little (follow waymarks), then contours to Weritzalp (Werizstafel: 2099m: refreshments), a hamlet of red-shuttered chalets, in a further 45mins. Beyond it the höhenweg path begins to slope down through forest to the few hay barns and alp huts of Tellialp (Tellistafel: 1865m), then crosses a stream and follows an undulating course along the hillside, passes the little Schwarzsee tarn and comes to Fafleralp (1787m: accommodation, refreshments), which has a charming modern chapel in the woods behind the hotel. About 10mins from Hotel Fafleralp the höhenweg ends when the path reaches a large car park at the roadhead and a bus stop.
2-day variant from Lauchernalp
By judicious use of the cablecar from Wiler, the Lötschentaler Höhenweg can be tackled as two individual sections, making use of the Lauchernalp cableway to relieve the effort of the initial climb from the valley.
Section 1 (10.5km, 3hrs 40mins)
From Wiler take the cablecar to Lauchernalp, where the höhenweg rises, then curves round the hillside aiming for Hockenalp (2048m: refreshments), the first of several alp hamlets linked by this path, whose waymark is a yellow diamond with black edging. All hamlets visited on this walk, except Faldumalp, have refreshment facilities.
With signposts at strategic footpath junctions, and waymarks at intermediate points, it would be difficult to lose the way. From Hockenalp the path continues to Kummenalp (2083m), then to Restialp (2098m) and round the slopes of the Alplighorn to Faldumalp (2037m). The final leg of the walk is a steepish descent to Ferden in the valley. The village is served by postbus for a return to your valley base.
Section 2 (8km, 2½hrs)
As with the main route, begin by taking the cablecar from Wiler to Lauchernalp, then head to the right along the signed and waymarked footpath described more fully under Walk 8. Hamlets visited on this walk after leaving Lauchernalp are: Weritzalp, Tellialp and Fafleralp. Across the valley views take in the high peaks of Bietschhorn, Breitlauihorn, Lötschentaler Breithorn and the Schinhorn. The big Gletscherstafel wall that buttresses the Breitlauihorn and Breithorn is plastered with small hanging glaciers and is an impressive feature of the valley. On arrival at Fafleralp make your way to the roadhead car park for the postbus back to your base.
WALK 9
Ferden (1375m) – Faldumalp (2037m) – Kummenalp (2083m) – Lötschenpass Hut (2690m)
| Distance | 10km (one way) |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 5–5½hrs |
| Height gain | 1315m |
| Accommodation | Lötschenpass Hut |
| Location | Northwest of Ferden |
The location of the Lötschenpass Hut is idyllic, resting as it does high above the valley, with a few small tarns below and a magnificent outlook to the Bietschhorn to the east. It makes a convenient overnight lodging for trekkers crossing the mountains on the way to or from Kandersteg (see Walk 10), or as a lunch stop during a day’s hike. The route described here is not the shortest or most direct approach from the Lötschental, but adds to the variety by adopting a short stretch of the höhenweg before climbing to the pass. To make a more direct route, follow signed ways from either Ferden or Kippel to Kummenalp, where you join the walk described as follows. Alternatively, an even more direct route can be achieved by riding the Wiler–Lauchernalp cablecar, then walking up to the highest part of the hamlet, where a signed path makes a long rising westward traverse to the Lötschenpass in about 2½hrs. This route is clearly marked on the LS map.
For our longer route, however, take the path from Ferden to Faldumalp as described at the beginning of Walk 8, and continue along the Lötschentaler Höhenweg to Restialp and Kummenalp in about 3hrs. Refreshments are available at both Restialp and Kummenalp. At Kummenalp a clear, signposted trail eases into the hanging valley behind the hamlet, and heads up rough slopes and past a few little tarns without any difficulty or diversion to reach the Lötschenpass Hut (2690m: accommodation, refreshments) in another 2–2¼hrs. The Lötschenpass Hut is usually manned from June to the end of October, when food and drinks are available. See hut details in the introduction to the Lötschental section, should you intend to spend the night there.
Shortly before gaining the hut it’s worth pausing to admire the panorama, which not only includes the Bietschhorn but the Mischabel group of mountains making a wall across the Rhône valley, with the distinctive Weisshorn and snowy Monte Rosa on the far horizon. From the Lötschenpass, the northward view looks to the Doldenhorn rising out of the Gasterntal, and northeast to the Blüemlisalp.
The last steps on the steep ascent of the Lötschenpass (photo: Jonathan Williams)
WALK 10
Lötschenpass Hut (2690m) – Selden (1552m) – Kandersteg (1176m)
| Distance | 10km |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 4½hrs |
| Height loss | 1514m |
| Additional map | LS 263T Wildstrubel 1:50,000 |
| Return transport | Train, Kandersteg–Goppenstein via the Lötschberg Tunnel |
| Accommodation | Gfällalp (berghaus), Selden (hotels), Kandersteg (hotels) |
| Location | North and northwest of the Lötschenpass |
The Lötschenpass has been used as a trading route between the Valais and canton Bern since at least medieval times, and this walk follows a section of that route. On the north side of the pass the way is exposed in places, and there’s a glacier to cross. The route over this is usually marked in summer and is fairly obvious. Even so, caution is advised.
From the hut cross the pass and follow the marked way as it descends a series of rock