Walking in the Valais. Kev Reynolds

the far side the path then descends steeply, keeping well to the left of the Leilibach stream, and leads directly to Berghaus Gfällalp (1847m: accommodation, refreshments, tel [phone]), from where you gain a very fine view of the Gasterntal’s upper reaches and of the Kanderfirn at its head. Continue down the slope, the path edging closer to the stream, and eventually reach the bed of the unspoilt Gasterntal beside the Kander river. A Himalayan-style suspension bridge takes you across the river to the hamlet of Selden (1552m: 2hrs: accommodation, refreshments). There are two inns here, both of which have dormitory accommodation as well as standard bedrooms: Hotel Steinbock (Tel [phone]) and Hotel Gasterntal-Selden (Tel [phone]).

      Turn left and walk down the valley to the Chluse gorge at its entrance, where the Kander river thunders in a series of cascades, then through this gorge, curving down the main Kandertal to Kandersteg (1176m: accommodation, refreshments), passing close to the railway station.

      Kandersteg has all the usual amenities for summer and winter visitors, with plenty of accommodation, restaurants, shops, banks, PTT, etc. The tourist office is located in the centre of the village (Tel [phone], [email protected], www.kandersteg.ch). For walks in the Kandersteg region see The Bernese Alps by Kev Reynolds, published by Cicerone Press.

WALK 11

      Fafleralp (1787m) – Petersgrat (3206m) – Selden (1552m) – Kandersteg (1176m)

Distance	18km
Grade	3
Time	11hrs (2 days)
Height gain	1419m
Height loss	2030m
Additional map	LS 263T Wildstrubel 1:50,000
Return transport	Train, Kandersteg–Goppenstein via the Lötschberg Tunnel
Accommodation	Mutthorn Hut, Selden (hotels), Kandersteg (hotels)
Location	Northwest and west of Fafleralp

      This long, demanding, but delightful traverse of the icy Petersgrat should be attempted only by those familiar with glacier crossings, as much of the route lies over snow- and icefields. It is essential, too, that the necessary equipment for safe travel over crevassed glaciers is taken (rope, ice axe, etc). There are no major difficulties, but caution should be exercised at all times, and it is advisable to make an early (pre-dawn) start in order to avoid the worst effects of the sun on the Kanderfirn glacier.

      From the pond in the hamlet of Fafleralp take the track left which gains height and swings round into the mouth of the Uisters Tal (also known as the Äusseres Faflertal). On reaching the stream at 1860m leave the track and take the path which strikes through the glen along the east bank. At the head of this little valley the path climbs steeply to the north of the Krindelspitz (Chrindelspitza) to gain the shrinking Üssertal glacier, with the long snow ridge of the Petersgrat directly above.

      Below the Petersgrat, the Uisters Tal spills into the Lötschental with views that include the Bietschhorn

      Make for the lowest point on the ridge, a little west of north from the point at which you joined the glacier. The broad, flat Petersgrat arête affords magnificent views in all directions, but especially to the big peaks of the Pennine Alps to the south, across to the Bietschhorn guarding the Lötschental and the Blüemlisalp ahead. Now descend the easy glacier heading north towards the obvious saddle which lies below the rocky lump of the Mutthorn. The Mutthorn Hut (2898m) is found a short distance below this to the right. With 100 places, it is manned from July to the middle of September (Tel [phone]).

      From the saddle, or close enough to it to get a clear perspective through it, take in the view of the west face of the Jungfrau, then return to the descent. Bear left (southwest) and go down the Kanderfirn glacier, keeping to its left-hand side. On reaching the end of the icefield you should come to a marked path which leads steeply down to the Gasterntal. At the first opportunity cross the stream to the right bank and wander down-valley through natural rock gardens to reach Berghaus Heimritz, the first of the Selden buildings (Tel [phone]), which has bedrooms and dormitory accommodation. Continue along the dirt road to the other atmospheric buildings of Selden (1552m: 8½hrs: accommodation, refreshments). There are two inns here, both of which have dormitory accommodation as well as standard bedrooms: Hotel Steinbock (Tel [phone]) and Hotel Gasterntal-Selden (Tel [phone]).

      It will take another 2½hrs to reach Kandersteg from Selden by a straightforward valley walk.

      Kandersteg has all the usual amenities for summer and winter visitors, with plenty of accommodation, restaurants, shops, banks, PTT, etc. The tourist office is located in the centre of the village (Tel [phone], [email protected], www.kandersteg.ch). For walks in the Kandersteg region see The Bernese Alps by Kev Reynolds, published by Cicerone Press.

      Instead of walking down-valley to Kandersteg, a splendid circuit could be created by crossing the Kander stream at Selden and reversing Walk 10 to the Lötschenpass, and descending from there back into the Lötschental – allow 6–6½hrs for this.

WALK 12

      Fafleralp (1787m) – Krindeln (Chrindellun) (2230m)

Distance	4km (one way)
Grade	2
Time	1½hrs
Height gain	443m
Location	North of Fafleralp

      This relatively short walk could make good use of a half-day, with some rewarding views from the high point. Bear in mind that you will need about 1hr for the descent.