the norm. Not in individual youth hostel-type bunks, but on a large communal ‘shelf’ of mattresses with a space allocated by the guardian. Blankets or duvets and pillows are provided, but not bed linen, so it is advisable to carry a sheet sleeping bag (obligatory in AAC huts). There is no segregation of the sexes, and in the more popular buildings in the height of the season these dormitories can become overcrowded and airless. If it’s a climbing hut, expect disturbance in the early pre-dawn darkness as climbers get up to begin their route; at the same time you should be aware of the need for quiet during the evening while others try to get a few hours of sleep before making their 1:00 or 2:00am start. Some huts operate a ‘silent time’ from 10:00pm until 6:00am, while in the larger huts, and this is especially true in Austria, it’s possible for a couple or a family to have a two- or four-bedded room as opposed to sleeping in a communal dormitory – at a higher cost, naturally, but often well worth the price.
Nearly all huts have a supply of slippers, or ‘hut shoes’, stored on racks in the boot room at the entrance. On arrival you should exchange your boots for a pair of these slippers, and leave trekking poles, ice axe and/or crampons on a rack too. It’s unacceptable to take these into the hut’s communal rooms, whether you plan to stay overnight or just call in for a bowl of soup in the middle of the day. In some huts rucksacks are banned beyond the boot room, and in such cases a basket is usually supplied in which you place your essentials to carry into the hut proper.
The ambience of a hut often depends as much on the sociability of the guardian as on other users. The best are hospitable and friendly, who tend their hut with care, and have a deep love of the surrounding mountains. Most are knowledgable with regard to the condition of onward routes, and their advice can be usefully sought. Some are known to produce a guitar or accordian and at the drop of a hat will fill the evenings with music. The service they provide is to be appreciated.
Except in the more remote and little-known regions (some of which are included in this book) it will be rare indeed to have a hut to yourself. In the height of the summer season, or at weekends, a number of huts will be fully booked, and it is essential to make a phone call in advance should it be your intention to stay. Telephone numbers are given with the walk descriptions.
Monte Rosa, from the terrace of the Hörnli Hut on the Matterhorn (Walk 28)
Walking in the Alps
Above Jüngen the view takes in the whole eastern side of the Mattertäl with the Nadelhorn, Dom and Tasch (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The key to a successful walking holiday in the Alps lies in preparation. To gain the most from such a holiday it is important to get fit before leaving home, then you’ll enjoy each day’s exercise, from first to last. Alpine walking can be demanding, so don’t be over ambitious as soon as you arrive, but instead gradually increase distance and height-gain as the holiday progresses. Acclimatisation to altitude varies from one person to another. Unless you attempt to climb one of the 4000m peaks during the first few days of your holiday, it’s unlikely that you’ll notice much change, although some may be a little breathless above 1800m or so even when walking on the flat. Headaches and loss of appetite may be experienced, but these should disappear as you acclimatise. First-time visitors to the Alps sometimes find the sheer scale of the mountains intimidating, but this will soon pass as you become accustomed to wandering amongst them.
Choosing the right footwear to take is of prime importance. Good walking boots will be needed on practically every hut approach described in these pages. Anything less and you’re bound to regret it. Trekking poles are now used throughout the Alps and are recommended, for they ease the strain on knees and thighs, especially when tackling steep descents, and have a beneficial long-term effect. On multi-day routes they are almost indispensable.
When planning your day’s walk read the route description beforehand and study the map so you can follow the route upon it and thereby gain an idea of what to expect. Although an estimated time is given at the head of each walk described, be aware that this is walking time only and you should therefore allow extra for rests, photography and delays. Plan your walk so as to reach your destination (be it the hut or return to the valley) with daylight to spare.
Check the weather forecast before setting out. The larger resorts usually have a guides bureau which displays a forecast, as do some of the tourist offices. Otherwise enquire at your hotel, hostel or campsite. If staying at a hut, the guardian will be able to give you an official forecast. Once you’ve set off keep alert for changes in the weather; in the mountains such changes can occur rapidly, so be prepared by taking appropriate clothing with you – see Appendix B for recommendations. Remember that a gentle valley breeze may be a piercing wind just 300m (1000ft) up the hillside, and as you wander higher so the weather intensifies, and when the sun goes behind a cloud the temperature can drop alarmingly. As a general guide, the temperature drops about 6°C for every 1000m of ascent. Should the weather deteriorate, or the route become hazardous, don’t be too proud to turn back. Carry some food and a litre of liquid per person, also a map and compass – and know how to use them. A first-aid kit, whistle and torch should be included in the rucksack.
Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person. When staying in a mountain hut always make a point of writing your name and route details in the book provided. This information enables the authorities to plot your movements in the event of an accident. Be insured, for mountain rescue in the Alps, whilst highly organised, is very expensive.
Most walks described in this book follow established routes along marked trails, but on occasion wild terrain is encountered when extra caution should be adopted. Some routes are on trails safeguarded in places with fixed ropes, chains or cables. Although you may feel confident on these sections, the safeguards have been provided for very good reasons, so take care. Be vigilant when crossing mountain streams, exposed rocks or snow, and don’t stray onto glaciers unless you have first learned the special techniques necessary for safe travel, or are in company with others experienced in glacier travel and with equipment to deal with crevasse rescue. Avoid icefalls and hanging glaciers, and be careful not to knock stones onto anyone who happens to be below.
Paths and Waymarks
Mountains have always been seen as obstacles to communication, and throughout the Alpine chain for centuries the only way for most people to journey from one valley to the next was to walk, often over difficult or dangerous terrain. Routes taken by generations of farmers, hunters and traders going about their daily business steadily developed into a network of trails that have been adopted by today’s recreational walker and climber. This network now forms a basic grid from which many more paths have sprung. Some have been created by official footpath organisations, like the Swiss Footpath Protection Association (Schweizerische Arbeitsgemeinschaft für Wanderwege), others by members of a mountaineering club in order to reach a hut, or the base of a popular climb.
With increased popularity in mountain walking, local communes in many Alpine regions have taken it upon themselves to improve and expand these footpaths further, to waymark and place signposts at strategic junctions, while other groups have added fixed rope safeguards in areas of potential danger. Some of these ‘improvements’ do little to enhance the mountain environment, but fortunately there is still a lot of wild country left, where activists need to use judgment and mountain sense.
Since many of the huts visited in this book are situated in fairly remote locations, walkers ought to be familiar with basic navigational procedures before tackling some of the longer routes described. Most waymarks in the Alpine ranges consist of paint flashes (usually red and white bands) on rocks, trees, posts or buildings. In the French Alps a number is sometimes added, which refers to a GR (Grande Randonnée) route. Signposts, where they appear, usually convey basic information, while in Switzerland yellow metal signposts appear at many trail junctions. These bear a central white plate which records the name of that junction and the altitude, while the finger pointers give the name or names of landmarks or villages and an estimate of the time it will take to walk there. In the Gran