yellow; in Austria there are also yellow and black bands, as well as red and white. Numbers are frequently painted on Austrian waymarks, but these do not always agree with route numbers marked on some of the maps, so confusion can arise. In Slovenia waymarks are in the form of a red circle with a white centre.
Safety in the Mountains
It may be that one day, despite having received a positive forecast, the weather turns nasty when you’re still far from your destination, and a storm breaks. In such instances, stay clear of metallic fixtures and dispose of any metal objects you have with you (ice axe, trekking pole etc) which can be retrieved later when the storm abates. Keep away from ridges and prominent features that stand above open ground. Do not shelter beneath over-hanging rocks or trees, and should you be caught in high open country, squat or curl up on your rucksack (assuming it does not have a metal frame) so as not to attract the lightning.
In the unfortunate event of an accident, stay calm. If your party is large enough to send for help while someone remains with the patient, make a careful written note of the precise location where the victim can be found. Should there be a mountain hut or farm nearby, seek assistance there. If valley habitation is nearer, find a telephone and call for help. Emergency numbers are usually prominently displayed. (See the Mountain Safety box for more information.)
The Alpine Environment
Concern for the mountain environment through which you walk ought to be second nature, but a few pointers are worth noting.
Alpine flowers are to be appreciated, but not picked. Many are protected by law, but even those that are not specifically listed should be left for others to enjoy.
Wildlife should not be disturbed.
Leave no litter, but take your rubbish back to the valley for proper disposal.
Take care not to foul water supplies.
Make no unnecessary noise.
Light no fires.
Don’t take shortcuts on mountain paths, for this can damage the soil and add to problems of erosion.
Recommended Maps and Guides
Maps
At the head of each walk description a note is given in regard to the map or maps recommended for that particular route. These are mostly at a scale of either 1:25,000 or 1:50,000, with a few at 1:30,000 or 1:40,000, depending on the publisher responsible. Not all are entirely accurate, although I found each one adequate for the walker’s needs.
The Rando Éditions Cartes de Randonnées sheets recommended for walks in the French Alps are based on maps of the official French survey, l’Institut Geographique National (IGN), with paths, huts, National Park boundaries etc overprinted upon them.
Those suggested for use in the Swiss Alps and marked with the initials LS are by the Swiss National Survey, Landeskarte der Schweiz. A few Wanderkarte are also noted; some of these are produced by local tourist authorities under licence, others published by Kümmerley and Frey with easy-to-read routes and hut details etc overprinted on them like those of Rando Éditions mentioned above.
Maps published by Kompass for Alpine districts in Austria and Italy often include a booklet giving basic tourist information regarding towns and villages which appear on specific sheets, as well as hut details and walks suggestions.
All these maps should be obtainable from Stanfords in London, who operate a mail order service, or from The Map Shop in Upton-upon-Severn. (See Appendix A.)
Guides
In the introductory essay to each Alpine country, a selection of guidebooks is given, for as the present collection of walks covers the length of the Alps and concentrates on hut routes, there will be countless possibilities left for walkers to explore elsewhere that simply could not be covered in this book. So for each district, or mountain group, visited within these pages, I have given a note of those English-language guidebooks that cover the same area. Most of these are produced by Cicerone, but a few others are published by West Col, Cordee or Inghams. Again, addresses are given in Appendix A.
Using this Guide
The Weisshorn is an elegant snow pyramid from almost every viewpoint, here seen from the north side of the Rhône valley (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The layout of this guidebook is such that walks are grouped, first under the individual country, then under specific Alpine districts. At the beginning of each country’s selection of walks, a short essay is given which summarises the character of the mountain districts under that country’s heading, together with a note of other guidebooks that could usefully be employed for further exploration – as mentioned above.
As for the walks themselves, basic information is given at the head of the page, followed by a brief outline of what to expect, then the route description which culminates in specific details in regard to the hut, including the telephone number which could be useful if it is your intention to stay overnight.
Distances are given in kilometres, and heights in metres. To convert kilometres to miles, divide the distance given by 1.6; for metres to feet, multiply the amount by 3 and add 10 per cent. These details are mostly taken from the recommended maps, but where these are not shown I have used an altimeter. In attempting to measure distances walked I have made the best estimate I could from cartographic readings. With numerous zigzags it’s impossible to be exact.
Times quoted are approximations too. They make no allowances for rest stops or photographic interruptions, but are based simply on actual walking time. Inevitably they will be considered slow by some walkers, fast by others, but are offered as an aid to planning.
In route descriptions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ refer to the direction of travel, whether in ascent or descent. However, when used to describe the bank of a stream or glacier, ‘left’ and ‘right’ indicate the direction of flow, ie: downhill. Where doubts might occur a compass direction is also given.
The sketch maps which accompany each walk are based on the recommended mapping sheet quoted, and are offered as a route outline for orientation. They are not an alternative to a real map.
Finally, all the route and hut information contained in this book is given in good faith and in the firm hope that those who follow will gain as much enjoyment as I have, on the individual walks and in the actual huts visited. But I am fully aware that changes do occur from time to time, both to the landscape and to mountain huts, and it may be that you will discover paths that have been rerouted and certain landmarks altered. Huts may be improved, enlarged or rebuilt; some quoted as having no resident guardian may one day be fully staffed. Conversely, one or two that are manned today, with meals provided for visitors, may become less popular so there’s no guardian and self-catering the only option.
Glacier Blanc in the Ecrins Massif (Walk 10)
THE FRENCH ALPS
A distant view of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland taken from the north side of Lac Léman 80km away (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The Alps of France extend roughly northward from the Mediterranean, running parallel with the Italian frontier, and culminating in the Mont Blanc massif where the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland coincide on the summit of Mont Dolent. Each of the mountain groups has its own distinctive appeal, its own scenic dimension that gives it a unique quality. The bare stony peaks of the Maritime Alps are very different, for example, from the bold snow- and ice-draped peaks of the Massif des Écrins; the tarn-dazzling pasturelands