Viso, before entering larchwoods once more. A well walked path leads through the woods, then out to birches by the stream and a bridge across the Guil. Now on the east bank the way briefly heads downstream, before cutting back up the hillside to join the road near a farm building. Once again Monte Viso towers at the head of the valley.
Monte Viso on the Franco-Italian border
Just before coming onto the road another path breaks to the right to contour along the hillside below road level. Either walk along the road as far as the Grand Belvédère, or take the footpath. The path certainly makes for more comfortable walking, and is most attractive where it crosses pastures and weaves among silver birch and larch, although in places it spills onto the road for a short distance. When the road twists left to climb in hairpins, the alternative path goes through a small gorge, then climbs out at the southern end onto the Grand Belvédère du Viso, a romantic name for a disappointingly flat area of roadhead at 2133m – although the view it commands is anything but disappointing.
Climb from the roadhead to a path junction and continue ahead, rising quite steeply over pastures for another 45mins where you intercept the route of GR58 and bear right. After crossing a few minor streams the path leads directly to the refuge.
Refuge du Balif Viso was built to a modern design by the CAF in 1976. It is well-equipped and comfortable, has places for 48 and a full meals service from mid-June to mid-September when the guardian is in residence (Tel: 04 92 46 81 81, [email protected], www.clubalpin.com).
WALK 7
Refuge des Bans (2076m: 6811ft)
| Start | Entre les Aygues (1604m: 5262ft) |
| Valley base | Vallouise |
| Distance | 4km (2½ miles) to the hut |
| Total ascent | 472m (1549ft) |
| Time | 1¾hrs up, 1¼hrs down |
| Map | Rando Éditions Carte de Randonnées ‘Écrins’ 1:50,000 |
This short and undemanding walk takes you towards the head of the Vallée de l’Onde west of Vallouise, the main resort and one of the best walking centres on the east side of the Écrins massif. From Vallouise to Entre les Aygues a narrow road pushes along the north bank of the river, passing the clustered hamlet of le Villard and an unmanned campsite (Pont des Places), with mountains crowding ahead within the National Park boundary. The roadhead of Entre les Aygues, as the name suggests, is at the confluence of streams: the Selle which flows from a glen opening to the south, and the Torrent des Bans coming from a narrow valley to the west. Heading this latter glen the rock peak of Les Bans (3669m) forms a barrier between the Bans (l’Onde) valley and that of the Vénèon, and the Refuge des Bans stands on a knoll at its feet.
A signpost at the western end of the parking area near the buvette (refreshment hut) marks the start of the path, and gives a generous 2hrs for the walk. At first the path strikes ahead among larch and silver birch trees on the north side of a gravelly plain, and remains fairly level for about 10mins before rising gently in long switchbacks up the hillside. As height is gained, so the trees thin out to allow clearer views towards the head of the valley where the ragged ridge which closes it runs from les Bans over Pic des Aupillous to Pic Jocelme and Pic de Bonvoisin, their upper flanks draped with minor glaciers and snow patches. Topping a rise the refuge may be detected by those with keen eyesight. It stands end-on atop a rocky knoll some way ahead; at first you may imagine the white-painted shutters at its windows to be tiny patches of snow.
Vallée des Bans, at Entre les Aygues
Midway along the valley cross a small, rough pasture with a stream coming down from the right, and with large boulders littering the upper pastureland slopes. Then you come to a pool on the left of the trail – look for tadpoles here. It’s noted for them. Beyond this more streams need to be crossed, and after heavy rain or early snowmelt you may need to choose a crossing place with care. The trail angles below the hut on its south side, and is aided by fixed cables where it goes along ledges. The way is not difficult, but the cables may be useful in descent during inclement weather. Then the path cuts back to the right to gain Refuge des Bans. Views into the cirque are splendid.
Refuge des Bans is a small hut provided by the CAF. It has just 22 places and meals provided when the guardian is in residence during the summer (usually mid-June to early Sept). Booking is essential for an overnight stay (Tel: 04 92 23 39 48, email [email protected]). Towards the end of the season, or in bad weather, the hut may be unmanned. If in doubt, enquire at the Vallouise tourist office.
The return to Entre les Aygues is of necessity by the same path. Allow 1¼hrs for this.
WALK 8
Refuge du Pré de Chaumette (1790m: 5873ft)
| Start | Entre les Aygues (1604m: 5262ft) |
| Valley base | Vallouise |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) to the hut |
| Total ascent | 1205m (3953ft) |
| Descent | 1030m (3379ft) |
| Time | 7hrs one way |
| Map | Rando Éditions Carte de Randonnées Écrins’ 1:50,000 |
A glance at the route summary above should be sufficient to underline the fact that this is quite a tough walk, and is emphasized by the fact that it is also possible to approach this refuge by a stroll of little more than an hour! However, that approach is from the western side of the range, from a road projecting north from Les Borels, while the route described below forms part of the long-distance Tour de l’Oisans (GR54). There are two cols to cross; the first, Col de l’Aup Martin (2761m) is the highest encountered on the GR54, while Pas de la Cavale is just 26m lower. The hut lies almost a thousand metres below that, on pastures near the head of the Vallée de Champoléon, and is a welcoming place with good facilities.
From the roadhead at Entre les Aygues above Vallouise the path (signposted) descends to the gravel plain, crosses a footbridge and then winds among trees and bushes before entering the narrow wedge of the Vallon de la Selle. For much of the way through this glen the trail maintains an easy gradient on the west side of the stream, passes Refuge du Jas. Lacroix and crosses another stream issuing from the Chanteloube corrie. You then climb to a high pastureland basin rimmed by a skyline of rocky peaklets spilling great aprons of scree. The path goes along the right-hand side of these pastures, then up to the next natural terrace before tackling the screes leading to the first col. The scree consists of compacted shales and grit, and in places the path is little more than a line of embedded footprints in it – rather like crossing a steeply-angled snowfield. Col de l’Aup Martin is reached in 4¼–4½hrs. Views are very fine; off to the right the next col, Pas de la Cavale, can be clearly seen.
Refuge du Pré de Chaumette
The path now contours round the head of a glen draining to the left, in the process of which you negotiate a ledge directly beneath