but trails climb to either side; that which forces a route along the flank of Tête Noire heads for Col de Chavière, while the path which veers to the east of Aiguille Doran crosses Col de la Masse (2923m) as a challenging route across the mountains to Plan d’Amont in the next glen to the east.
Walkers based for a day or two at Refuge de l’Orgère have several options open to them. There’s a pleasant nature trail that eases along the eastern flank of the valley, beginning just below the hut where a track rises from the few stone chalets of l’Orgère hamlet, and heads north towards Aiguille Doran, crosses just below it and returns down the western side of the glen. A longer and more rewarding day’s outing could be won by climbing immediately above the hut on a steep forest trail that eventually shafts right and makes a splendid belvedere working north to a high plateau below Col de Chavière. From this plateau, with the little Lac de la Partie tucked in a basin to the right, another trail cuts off left. This is GR55 which is then followed southward, descending through the St Bernard glen to Polset where a narrow service road is joined. This leads directly back to Refuge de l’Orgère.
A third day’s outing is rather more demanding than those previously outlined, for it crosses Col de la Masse north-east of Aiguille Doran, descends very wild terrain to the next glen to the east, then returns to l’Orgère by way of the GR5 trail that crosses the grassy Col du Barbier (2287m) high above the Maurienne. This makes for a magnificent day’s mountain walking, with some very fine scenery to enjoy throughout.
Refuge de l’Orgère is not the only accommodation available here, for an alternative, privately-owned refuge exists on a shelf of meadowland just south of the Orgère chalets. Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran has forty places and, being situated just outside the National Park boundary, allows camping in its grounds (camping is forbidden by the park authorities, other than at selected huts where lightweight tents are permitted on a transitory overnight basis between 7.00pm and 7.00am).
Aussois
The village of Aussois is found, not astride the main N6 that links most of the Maurienne communities, but north of it and below a delightful glen containing two artificial lakes, Plan d’Amont and the lower Plan d’Aval overlooked by La Dent Parrachée (3697m). Aussois is a minor resort with modest opportunities for skiing in winter and, through road access to the two dammed lakes, popular for walking in summer. As for accommodation, an 18th-century fortress just outside the village, one of the five Forts de l’Esseillon, has been converted as another porte du parc. With a cobble-stone courtyard, double walls and surrounding moat, Fort Marie-Christine has an atmosphere all its own.
Within the Aussois glen three mountain huts provide lodgings for climbers and walkers in rather more remote settings than that of Fort Marie-Christine. Refuge du Fond d’Aussois and Refuge de la Dent Parrachée are both owned by the CAF. The first lies deep within the glen beside a stream, while the second is located on a spur of hillside at 2511 metres, and is patronised by climbers tackling the voie normale on the Dent Parrachée which ascends through the Vallon de Fournache. The third hut is a converted farm which, with outhouses turned into dormitory accommodation, is situated on a natural shelf on the east side of the glen overlooking the two lakes which lie several hundred metres below. Refuge du Plan Sec is privately-owned and popular with walkers tackling the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Tour of the Vanoise and the GR5.
Short day walks are available from the roadhead below the upper lake, while longer routes are possible from a base in one of the above-mentioned huts. At the head of the glen Col d’Aussois (2916m) offers a way over the mountains to the Chavière valley which flows down to Pralognan-la-Vanoise (this col is crossed in the opposite direction by one of the options on the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise), while the rocky little Pointe de l’Observatoire which juts above the col to the west, is a fine viewpoint reached in about 30 minutes.
A clockwise circuit of the glen is another option worth considering. When taken from Aussois a steep climb becomes inevitable from the start in order to gain the GR5 just north of Col du Barbier. The trail heading along the west flank is narrow and stony in places, but there are no major difficulties to contend with under normal summer conditions, and views are consistently fine. Midway along the glen the route climbs to a high point, then levels across an open moorland cut by numerous streams. Continuing northward the way climbs again to a junction with the path that heads west to Col de la Masse and Orgère. At this point GR5 swings to the right following a few low cairns where the path is thin on the ground, then descends among alpenroses to a track at the northern end of Plan d’Amont. Off to the left the glen continues towards its head, but to complete the circuit involves crossing a stream and following a narrow trail eastward. This eventually joins another track, or dirt road, which heads south past Refuge du Plan Sec to a few ski tows, then drops steeply to Plan d’Aval and Aussois.
Overlooking the Maurienne, Col du Barbier is on the route of the Tour of the Vanoise
Plan du Lac mirrors the Grande Casse in the heart of the Western Graians
Upvalley from Aussois the little village of Sardières is set among meadows below the 93 metre tooth of rock known as the Monolithe de Sardières, which juts from the forest and attracts both climbers and general tourists alike. A gîte d’étape in the village provides another accommodation option in this part of the Maurienne.
Valley of the Doron
Termignon sits in a loop of the Arc river by its confluence with the Doron. The Doron flows from the north, its valley having cut a deep trench in the main Vanoise massif – the most profound tributary valley carved in the southern flank of these mountains. Termignon has one or two modest hotels, a gîte d’étape and campsite and, of considerable use to walkers, a shuttle bus service (the navette) which maintains a daily schedule throughout the summer along the east flank of the valley between Termignon and Entre Deux Eaux, with stops at a large parking area (Bellecombe) from which a number of walks begin, and Refuge du Plan du Lac with its glorious panorama of high mountains, glaciers and snowfields. The road along which the navette journeys is closed to private vehicles beyond Bellecombe, thus preserving a certain aura of peace in the high pasturelands of Plan du Lac.
This is magnificent walking country. Trails explore both sides of the valley, but not the bed of the valley itself which, upstream of le Villard, is a wild and narrow gorge – the upper end with a brief track marked on the map as itinéraire dangereux.
Refuge du Plan du Lac is a modern, comfortable hut built by the PNV (Parc National de la Vanoise). The view west across the Doron gorge is breathtaking, while to the north the great rock wall of the Grande Casse looks most impressive. A short walk south leads to the beautiful tarn which gives Plan du Lac its name, and trails north and north-east lead to other mountain huts; to the privately-owned Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux, and to Refuge de la Femma (PNV). Entre Deux Eaux is another converted dairy farm open in summer only, while La Femma is a three-storey timber building standing near the head of the pastoral Vallon de la Rocheure. This vallon, or glen, cuts back to the east of Entre Deux Eaux and offers good walking prospects; easy valley strolls with charming views, prospects of exploring cirques gouged from the south flank of the valley, and more demanding treks across the walling mountains – via Col de Pierre Blanche (2842m) to Refuge de la Leisse, or by way of Col de la Rocheure (2911m) for a choice of several distant and moderately challenging destinations. As with almost all other huts in the Vanoise region, a winter room is permanently open when the main accommodation at La Femma is closed.
High on the west bank, set upon a shelf of rock and grass below the Glacier de l’Arpont, Refuge de l’Arpont is a PNV hut with 95 dormitory places and a small space for camping. Nearby cascades shower from the Glaciers de la Vanoise. Ibex are often seen grazing near the hut and the shrill whistle of marmots pierces the stillness. A small tarn lodged on the mountainside about 350 metres above the hut, makes an interesting and scenic destination for a short walk. The Arpont hut is used by walkers on the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, as well as by those tackling the longer Tour of the Vanoise and the classic GR5. But it makes a first-class destination in its own right when