makes its way from Landry.
The second stage continues southward along the west flank of Mont Pourri towards the head of the Ponturin valley, but then slants left at the Chalets de la Plagne to begin the ascent to Col de la Sachette (2713m). The upper part of the climb goes through a wild and rocky landscape, and the terrain on the initial descent is every bit as rough as that on the ascent. The col is situated on a ridge carrying the PNV boundary south from Dôme de la Sache, and just below and to the north of Rochers Rouges (3002m). The view east shows the Aiguille de la Grande Sassière and other frontier mountains across the depths of the Isère valley, and the first part of the descent is a little exposed and demanding care. However, although the route maintains its rough character and is steep for quite some way, the path itself improves and eases through the Vallon de la Sachette where there are several little tarns. Veering left below the Vallon de la Sache where the path forks, the way passes below glaciers that drape unseen down the face of Dôme de la Sache, and eventually reaches the PNV-owned Refuge de la Martin. At the end of this stage there should still be time, energy permitting, to wander up a good trail from the hut to gain a close view of the Glacier de la Savinaz in an austere setting.
For the final stage of the Tour du Mont Pourri follow a trail that descends northwards to la Gurraz, then rise on a track that becomes a footpath leading to another PNV hut, the unguarded Refuge de Turia which takes its name from Mont Turia, a summit just to the north of Mont Pourri to which it is joined by a splendid crest. The Arc 2000 trail continues beyond the hut and crosses a ravine, passes below the Aiguille Rouge and Signal de l’Aiguille Rouge, then descends steeply to a junction of paths. The way now veers left along the mountainside with Mont Blanc in view ahead to the north, and joins a track leading to a chairlift. Rounding the northern flank of Aiguille Rouge the buildings of Arc 2000 are soon visible and completion of the tour in sight.
| Day 1: | Arc 2000 – Col de la Chal – Refuge du Mont Pourri |
| Day 2: | Refuge du Mont Pourri – Col de la Sachette – Refuge de la Martin |
| Day 3: | Refuge de la Martin – Refuge de Turia – Arc 2000 |
Vallée du Ponturin
Flanked by the Sommet (or Dôme) de Bellecôte (3417m) on the west, and Mont Pourri to the east, the Ponturin flows from just below Col du Palet to Landry where it joins l’Isère. In its upper reaches the valley’s glacial origins are obvious, but lower down it is river cut, the steep hillsides clothed with mixed forests. Landry is an obvious point of entry, for it has a railway station on the line which goes to Bourg St-Maurice, and a bus service to Peisey-Nancroix a few kilometres inside the Ponturin valley. Landry village, for a village is what it remains, has hotel accommodation and a campsite. The GR5 passes through after having crossed the Beaufortain Alps from Mont Blanc, and then strikes southward along the Ponturin valley on its way to the Vanoise massif. The GR5 therefore gives the valley the mountain walker’s seal of approval. The small but sophisticated resort of Peisey-Nancroix, noted for its slender, handsome church, sits on the right flank and provides some winter appeal with cross-country ski facilities, while three huts (four if you count Refuge du Mont Pourri) effectively underline the opportunities that abound here for the exploration of some fine mountain country. Apart from Landry, Peisey-Nancroix and these huts, overnight facilities are available in the hamlets of Le Moulin and Nancroix. The valley also has a campsite and gîte d’étape.
As for the huts, these are the PNV’s porte du parc, Chalet-Refuge de Rosuel which is accessible by road; the privately-owned Refuge d’Entre le Lac above the Lac de la Plagne; and Refuge du Col du Palet situated, as its name implies, just below Col du Palet across which GR5 briefly leaves the National Park to descend to Lac de Tignes. Refuge du Mont Pourri has already been mentioned, and is accessible from the valley by a trail which climbs from Les Lanches.
Walking routes abound, and with accessible cols providing opportunities to cross the walling ridges to east and west, a variety of hut-to-hut tours are possible. Beginning in the lower part of the Ponturin, one such option sets out from Le Moulin and enters the tributary glen of the Nant Benin which flows from the south. Sections of this glen have been sacrificed to the ski industry, but there’s still some worthwhile country to wander through. At its head Col de Frête (2492m) is a dip in the ridge linking Roche de Mio and the Sommet de Bellecôte, and from it a way leads down the south side to Champagny-le-Haut and another porte du parc, Refuge du Bois.
Upvalley from Le Moulin, Chalet-Refuge de Rosuel has an unusual appearance in that its turfed roof has a wave-like shape designed to reduce the impact of avalanches. Situated near the roadhead, and with parking facilities, it is obviously very busy throughout the summer. Refuge du Mont Pourri is easily accessible from Rosuel either by the trail from Les Lanches a short way downstream, or from another path which cuts back from the GR5 upvalley towards the Chalets de la Plagne. Another route breaking away left (east) from the chalets is that which was adopted by the Tour du Mont Pourri and which climbs to Col de la Sachette on the way to Refuge de la Martin.
But the most popular walk from Rosuel leads in around three hours to Lac de la Plagne and Refuge d’Entre le Lac. It’s a fine, scenically interesting route that crosses meadows with grand views left to Mont Pourri and a series of cliffs down which a cascade and numerous streams drain the glaciers. From Entre le Lac a trail continues south-west and climbs, quite steeply in places, to Col du Plan Séry. Descent on the western side of the col passes eroded limestone pillars, crosses high meadowland, then drops in zig-zags to Refuge de Plaisance, about 600 metres above the Vallée du Doron de Champagny. The continuing route descends into that valley, where there’s a gîte d’étape at Laisonnay d’en Haut, or breaks away upstream to the small, privately-owned Refuge de la Glière.
On the way to Col du Plan Séry from Refuge d’Entre le Lac the trail forks. The left-hand option here is an alternative route to Refuge du Col du Palet, which joins the main GR5 near another trail junction at the upper end of Plan de la Grassaz. The south-west option at this junction leads to what may be regarded as one of the finest of all mountain panoramas enjoyed by walkers in the Graian Alps, but in order to gain that you have to climb to Col de la Grassaz (2637m). The path is not too demanding though, for it ascends gradually through a broad glen, wild yet enchanting with the little Lac Verdet tucked below the austere Aiguille des Aimes. But on emerging at the col a scene of astonishing beauty is the reward. Dominating the view to the south is the north wall of the Grande Casse flanked by numerous glaciers, the largest being a vast sheet of white plastered on the face of La Grande Motte. It’s a wonderful scene, and the descent through pastures prolongs the enjoyment. Halfway down the trail is joined by another which comes from Col du Palet, and a little over two hours from the col reaches Refuge de la Glière, a small, atmospheric hut settled at the foot of the Aiguille de l’Epéna.
Back in the Ponturin valley the main route of approach to Refuge du Col du Palet is the GR5 trail which leads in about four hours from Chalet-Refuge de Rosuel. Although it’s a fairly long approach, there’s plenty of interest for the valley is full of charm and the surrounding mountains have lots of scenic appeal. The way passes the Chalets de la Plagne, follows a rocky crest and looks down on the Lac de la Plagne, crosses the depression of Plan de la Grassaz where an ancient lake long ago silted up, and enjoys views ahead to La Grande Motte’s snow dome. Shortly after passing Lac de Grattaleu a trail breaks away left from the main GR5 to reach Refuge du Col du Palet, set in undulating grassland with screes and grey slabs in view just 10 minutes below the actual col.
The National Park boundary traces the ridge crossed by Col du Palet (2652m). To the east the ski grounds of Lac de Tignes and Val Claret make a stark contrast to the unspoiled grandeur of the Ponturin side, grandeur signified by the sprawling Bellecôte massif and its spiky neighbour, l’Aliet. Views east from the ‘spacious level of white stone’ (as Martin Collins described the col) are extensive, and a short way along the descent trail includes the distant range of the Gran Paradiso. Instead of crossing Col du Palet, walkers who follow a trail heading south-west will soon come to Col de la Croix des Frêtes from which La Grande Casse is clearly seen ahead. Crossing this col the trail descends to Refuge de la Glière at the head of the Champagny valley, joining the route described above from