are fine cross-country routes to tackle which continue to the Vallon de la Leisse (on GR55), or south of that to Entre Deux Eaux and the Vallon de la Rocheure, or to Plan du Lac; or even down the west flank of the Doron gorge to Refuge de l’Arpont, thereby reversing a section of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise. Each of these will give a magnificent and full day’s walking from Pralognan. But should a return be planned to Pralognan, rather than reverse the route of ascent there’s a circuit to be made by heading south-west from the hut to Lac des Assiettes (by mid-summer this is often almost dry), then down through a hanging valley below the Glacier de l’Arcin. The descent is rough and more challenging than the standard route. It is also a little longer, taking almost three hours to reach Les Fontanettes.
Other Options from Pralognan
South of Pralognan, Refuge de la Vallette sits high on the right flank of the Chavière valley on a hillside shelf below the long rock wall that supports the Glaciers de la Vanoise ice sheet. A trail climbs to it from Pralognan by way of the Isertan forest, while linking trails lead to Col de la Vanoise by way of the Col du Grand Marchet (2490m) and the Fontanettes-Lac des Assiettes path. Another walkers’ route heads south from the Vallette hut on a strenuous crossing of Col d’Aussois (2916m), and descends from there to Refuge du Fond d’Aussois in the Aussois glen that drains into the Maurienne. This latter route forms part of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise outlined below. Incidentally, there are three further routes by which the Col and Refuge du Fond d’Aussois may be gained from the Chavière valley. The first leaves the valley road near Les Prioux and climbs to the Chalet des Nants where the Vallette trail is joined. Next is a track coming from the roadhead at Pont de la Pêche, with a path that continues above Montaimont, while the third breaks away from the GR55 trail upstream from La Motte, crosses the Chavière to the Ritort alp, and climbs in zig-zags from there to join the main Vallette-Col d’Aussois route on the right bank of the Rosoire stream.
When crossing Col de la Vanoise, trekkers gain a direct view of the Pointe de la Glière and Aiguille de la Epena
Opposite Refuge de la Vallette, on the west side of the Chavière, rises the Petit Mont Blanc (2677m), a popular modest peak that attracts walkers by a choice of footpaths starting from the Chavière valley, as well as via other routes of ascent beginning in a glen on the west side of the mountain made accessible from Courchevel. One of the Chavière routes begins downstream of Pont de Gerlan; one leaves the GR55 path upstream of that bridge, another from Les Prioux hamlet, and yet a fourth from a track between Pont de la Pêche and La Motte. Petit Mont Blanc (or Petit Mont Blanc de Pralognan to give its full title) is so-named for the exposed white gypsum deposits from which it is made. The summit is reached by way of a series of strange craters, and from the crown extensive views include the Vanoise glaciers seen across the valley to the east.
From the summit it’s possible to link with a ridge-walk along the Crête du Mont Charvet, gained by way of the Col des Saulces (2456m) and a trail along the west flank of the Dents de la Portetta, or return to Pralognan via Col de la Grande Pierre. Alternatively descend west from Petit Mont Blanc to the little unguarded PNV hut, Refuge des Lacs Merlet in a corrie below Aiguille du Fruit, and spend the remainder of the day exploring that corrie, then make a circuit of the aiguille next day, passing Refuge du Saut where the trail divides. By heading south-east, cross Col Rouge (2731m) and descend to the GR55 at a point midway between Pont de la Pêche and Refuge de Péclet-Polset in the upper Chavière valley. From there either head upvalley to Péclet-Polset, or turn left and wander downstream to Pralognan. Those who go up to Refuge de Péclet-Polset will find it very busy by day with walkers making a visit from the roadhead at Pont de la Pêche. Above the hut a low ridge gives lovely views onto the milky-blue waters of Lac Blanc, while to the south an uncompromisingly wild patch of country encloses the valley-head in a stony amphitheatre with the dipping Col de Chavière offering an escape route to the Maurienne.
It will be seen, then, that Pralognan is not short of walking routes, and a holiday based there will serve well those who prefer their mountains tempered with comfortable sociability of an evening. The map is liberally outlined with blue-traced possibilities, while refuge symbols indicate a range of multi-day tours available for those with a taste for this kind of walking holiday. Of these, the best of all outings to be made in and around the Vanoise National Park is the 10-to-12-day Tour of the Vanoise described below from Modane, and the shorter version, the four-day Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise which is publicised as starting from Pralognan. There is also a traverse of the massif to be made which begins at Landry in the Tarentaise, follows GR5 to Col du Palet, descends to Val Claret and joins GR55 across the mountains to Pralognan, then continues through the Chavière to Péclet-Polset, crosses Col de Chavière and descends to Modane in the Maurienne; a five-day crossing.
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise
Apart from the start and finish, this fine circuit remains above the 2000 metre contour, has two real passes to cross and numerous ridge spurs to negotiate, three nights to be spent in mountain huts and splendid views to enjoy throughout. Apart from the route over the first col (Col d’Aussois), which you may have to yourself, trails are likely to be well used during the main summer season. Snow will no doubt be lying in places until the middle of July, or even later in some years following a late spring, but while caution is naturally required, there should be no technical difficulties to face.
On the southern outskirts of Pralognan a path is taken which climbs steeply from the edge of a campsite through the Isertan forest, followed by a rough scramble to the so-called Pas de l’Âne, reached by way of an impressive open gully. The path continues up to Roc du Tambour with the Petit Marchet rising above to the left, then swings right and eases below rock walls supporting ice cliffs edging the Glaciers de la Vanoise, and about five hours from Pralognan arrives at the Refuge de la Vallette.
The second stage is longer and more arduous than the first, taking about seven and a half hours (plus rests) to gain Refuge du Fond d’Aussois over the Col d’Aussois, highest point of the tour. However, the day begins with a steady descent of about 400 metres to the Chalet des Nants where an alternative trail rises from Les Prioux. From the chalet the way then makes a traverse of hill slopes below the little Glacier des Nants until a point is reached just above Montaimont. Here the trail rises into the Cirque du Génépy topped by the Dôme de l’Arpont and with the Glacier du Génépy draped below it. The way continues to climb, then eases along a belvedere trail known as the Sentier Balcon d’Ariande. Joined by the trail from the alp of Ritort, the continuing route heads south-east up the glen of the Rosoire stream before veering south for the final steep climb to Col d’Aussois, the final part of which is often over old snow on scree. The col is surprisingly broad and level, but the way down to the Aussois glen can be tiring as it descends a series of rock terraces before more comfortable slopes of grass lead eventually to the hut set beside a pleasant stream.
Early summer, and snow still lies on sections of the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise
Next day is less strenuous, albeit almost as long as the last, demanding perhaps six hours or so for the route to Refuge de l’Arpont. But there are no real passes to negotiate, the trails are good and mostly clear and, since the way is shared by both the longer Tour of the Vanoise and the GR5, there should be no navigational skills called upon.
Leaving Refuge du Fond d’Aussois continue downvalley through the lovely glen to a bridge over a stream that falls into the Plan d’Amont reservoir. At this point a crossing trail (GR5) is joined, bearing left (east) below Refuge de la Dent Parrachée, then on a track heading south-east to pass the privately-owned Refuge du Plan Sec. A short distance beyond this hut a footpath breaks away from the track near ski tows, crosses pastureland and makes a traverse of hillside high above the Maurienne. At a junction of trails near the ruined hutments of La Turra, the way climbs the flank of Roc des Corneilles in steep switchbacks to gain a well-made path cutting round a bare cirque formed by curving ridges of the Pointe de Bellecôte. Rounding a ridge spur projecting east of the same mountain, the trail then goes north-west and north along the GR5 into the Doron valley. As the way progresses,