down from the Vanoise glaciers above to the left and ibex are often seen among pastures and stream-cut gullies on the approach to the hut. The Arpont hut enjoys lovely views south with the Doron gorge below to the east, but for the full bounty of northward views it is necessary to climb a short slope behind the hut.
These views are gained next morning on stage four which leads to the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise and down to Pralognan – a demanding day’s trekking. In the early part of the season snow slopes often lie just beyond Refuge de l’Arpont, and caution will be required in crossing them. However, the slope soon eases with the trail crossing gentle grasslands below the eastern extent of the Vanoise glaciers. A little under three hours from Arpont the main GR5 trail descends steeply eastward into a glen below Entre Deux Eaux, while the route to the Col de la Vanoise is signed to the left, a trail that cuts along the east face of Point de la Réchasse. This eventually joins a major route (GR55) climbing from Pont de Croé-Vie. Near this junction stands a large triangular memorial stone erected in memory of two army officers who perished in the mountains. The route to Col de la Vanoise climbs left and soon enters the long windy trough leading to Refuge du Col de la Vanoise, beyond which the well-marked but tiring mule-track descends to Pralognan.
| Day 1: | Pralognan – Pas de l’Âne – Refuge de la Vallette |
| Day 2: | Refuge de la Vallette – Col d’Aussois – Refuge du Fond d’Aussois |
| Day 3: | Refuge du Fond d’Aussois – Refuge de l’Arpont |
| Day 4: | Refuge de l’Arpont – Refuge du Col de la Vanoise – Pralognan |
Tour of the Vanoise
This longer route, which extends that of the Vanoise glaciers tour outlined above, makes an excellent circuit of the massif in 10 to 12 days, providing a series of magnificent experiences and a first-class overview of the National Park, and is arguably the finest expedition open to walkers in the western Graian Alps. In some respects it stands comparison with the much better-known Tour du Mont Blanc, while being not so demanding as the Tour de l’Oisans in the neighbouring Dauphiné Alps. Accommodation with meals provision is available every night in mountain huts or valley hotels and gîtes d’étape. Backpacking is therefore unnecessary, and in summer walkers should be able to tackle the circuit in a two-week holiday without the burden of a heavy rucksack.
Modane to Refuge du Plan Sec
Modane makes an obvious starting point. Access is straightforward, and a short but steep approach on the first day leads to Refuge de l’Orgère. It is a steep approach too, in forest for much of the way on a trail with numerous junctions, but signposts and waymarks are sufficient to ensure the correct trail is taken. On occasion momentary views are allowed through the trees down to the bed of the valley, while the upward view is almost always concealed by dense forest cover. When rare open meadows are crossed (meadows extravagant with alpine flowers in early summer), the long trench of the Maurienne is revealed off to the right, its southern walling mountains of modest appeal except towards the east where they grow in stature. Those higher peaks will be seen to good effect later on the tour. Half an hour from Orgère a track is crossed near the Pierre Brune chalet. If this is followed to the right it will lead to an alternative hut, the privately-owned Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran.
From the National Park’s Orgère refuge the Tour of the Vanoise crosses the mouth of the Orgère glen and follows the route of GR5 heading north-east along an undulating trail, at first through forest, then rising over steep hillsides of grass where sheep graze high above the Maurienne, passing one or two isolated stone buildings before descending a little to the grass saddle of Col du Barbier. The col is more a shallow grass scoop than a proper col, with a gentle grass dome nearby overlooking the valley, and a clear hint ahead that the glen soon to be entered will provide good things to enjoy.
The Aussois glen is a rewarding place to wander. The trail picks its way along the western slopes some way above the Plan d’Aval man-made lake, with its thunderous roar of water floating on the breeze. The cascade seen far below is part of a hydro-electric scheme, the fall bursting from a 17 kilometre pipe used to divert water from streams near the head of the Doron gorge. The trail climbs over a rocky bluff, then crosses a broad, open, moorland-like stretch running with streams in the early season, and fine views across the glen to the Dent Parrachée and Pointe de Bellecôte. Beyond this moorland the way veers to the right and eventually drops steeply to a shelf bright with alpenroses, below which a bridge crosses a stream draining the upper glen. There follows a short exposed section of footpath, but this soon gives way to easier terrain and a dirt road that makes a traverse of the eastern hillside. This dirt road passes just below Refuge du Plan Sec, with a narrow trail climbing in a few moments up to it.
Draining the Glaciers de la Vanoise, waterfalls spray down crags above the path that leads to Refuge de l’Arpont
Refuge du Plan Sec to Refuge de l’Arpont
On the third stage the route enters the Doron valley which later provides some of the loveliest of all Vanoise scenery. In order to gain that valley from Plan Sec, GR5 is once again adopted as the best route of access; the same trail as that used by the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise on the way to Refuge de l’Arpont. From Plan Sec the dirt road is followed a short way downvalley, then a narrow trail forks across meadows and teeters along the steeply plunging hillside quite 1100 metres above the ribbon of l’Arc. A short gully is climbed by a tightly twisting path, then a wide and easy trail breaks away on a rising traverse followed by switchbacks to an open grass saddle near the ruins of La Turra above the unseen Monolithe de Sardières. Another twisting uphill trail leads to a comfortingly easy traverse of a combe, beyond which one further saddle is crossed by more chalet ruins at La Loza. By straying a few paces from the trail onto a nearby hillock, an extensive panorama may be enjoyed which includes both La Grande Casse and La Grande Motte to the north of the Doron gorge, while north-east across the valley the continuing trail of the Tour of the Vanoise can just be seen, as can Termignon nestling at a junction of streams 1000 metres and more below.
After rounding a spur at La Loza the trail cuts across another large combe (snow patches early in the summer) and tops a bluff marked on the map as Montafia. Just beyond this the route curves into the Combe d’Enfer, a charming corrie wild above and vegetated below. On its north-eastern side there’s a small farm advertising home-made cheese, drinks and couchettes – a remote lodging reminiscent of that experienced by the Victorian pioneers. Now heading north-west the trail lines the mountainside walling the Doron gorge, and on the final approach to the hut crosses numerous streams draining the Glaciers de la Vanoise – streams that have cut deep channels in the natural hillside shelf. Cascades pour their silver over a line of cliffs above to the left, while Refuge de l’Arpont sits perched on a narrow levelling hillside spur projecting from the Dôme de Chasseforêt, gazing south to the far boundary of the Maurienne.
Refuge de l’Arpont to Refuge du Vallonbrun
Above Arpont high mountain views increase in grandeur on one of the best of all stages of this ever-delightful tour. Continuing north along the western wall of the Doron gorge, the way hiccups over a series of bluffs and open pastures with the hint of glaciers above, and the dark face of the Pointe de la Réchasse disguising the full extent of the much bigger Grande Casse rising behind it. Glacial torrents dash through the pastures and glens rough with old moraines, while other glens off to the right entice with their own mystique. La Grande Motte shows itself above shadows that tell of the Vallon de la Leisse through which the route will return in four or five days’ time, then a sudden descent is made to the head of the Doron gorge and a confluence of streams – that which drains the Vallon de la Leisse itself, and the Torrent de la Rocheure coming from the east. An old dairy farm sprawling on the hillside above to the north houses the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux. Described as being ‘long and low, rising at one end to a second storey,’ the refuge seems hardly to have changed since Janet Adam Smith first stayed there in 1935. Full of character and surrounded by the calm of remote mountain country,