better advised to admire the peak from afar.
Into Italy
From Refuge Agnel the border is soon reached at Col Agnel, thought by scholars to be one of the possible crossing places used by Hannibal and his elephants on their journey over the Alps into Italy. After a long descent to the south down the Vallone dell’Agnello, the route changes direction to climb, gradually at first, up the isolated and lovely Soustra valley. After a stiff climb to an Italian ridge at the Passo della Losetta, there’s an optional ascent of Pointe Joanne, another stunning high viewpoint.
The highlight of this part of the journey is the close-up view of the northwest face of Monte Viso, almost 1000m of very steep rock. This really is an impressive mountain that deserves to be better known outside the region, for it ranks amongst the most spectacular of Alpine peaks. Standing alone, wholly in Italy, it towers above all other peaks in the vicinity. Monte Viso (Monviso) is seen to best advantage from the balcony path between Passo della Losetta and Col de Valante. France is re-entered at this col, with a night spent at the Refuge Baillif-Viso, from whose balcony spectacular views of Monte Viso are again on offer. From the refuge, Italy is re-entered at Col Sellière for an excursion in the Pellice valley beneath another giant of the region, the 3166m Monte Granero.
For those with less time there’s a shorter option – wholly within France – from Refuge Agnel, via picturesque Lac Egourgéou, with an opportunity to reach the summit of Pic de Foréant, another giant of more than 3000m, much less climbed than the neighbouring Pain de Sucre, but an equally fine viewpoint. The trail leads down to the small village of l’Echalp, where the food in the Seven Degrees East gîte d’étape is to die for (be sure to ask for their blueberry pie). The Italian and French routes eventually reunite in the pretty hamlet of La Monta, from where once again there are two alternative routes, a high-level or low-level option. Those wanting a demanding high-level traverse choose the Sommet de la Lauzière route, again with peakbagging opportunities; those with scrambling ability can tackle the towering 2929m Tête du Pelvas above the Col d’Urine – yes, it means the same in French! But equally good is a gentle stroll down the attractive Guil valley from La Monta via the village of Ristolas to the veritable metropolis of Abriès.
Abriès via Malrif and Souliers back to the Durance Valley
The Tour continually offers alternative routes, and it is often difficult to choose as most are so delectable. Another major decision has to be made on leaving Abriès. Either take the direct standard route via Lac de Grand Laus, a high Alpine lake hemmed in by an impressive cirque of mountains, or the longer and more demanding variant via Col de Thures and Col de Rasis, the latter at 2921m being the highest col on the entire Tour, less than 80m below the magic 3000m mark. Both routes come together at Pic du Malrif, the highlight of the day’s itinerary, a fine perch from which to admire the snow-capped giants of the Écrins National Park to the west: Mont Pelvoux, Barre des Écrins and La Meije. There’s only one place to spend the night, the gîte d’étape in the upland summer pasture of Les Fonts de Cervières. But if the Ritz itself were on offer, it could not compare with this engaging hamlet; and the food … oh, the food!
Strong walkers could manage the next stage to Brunissard in one long day, but to do so would rather miss the point of the Tour of the Queyras, which is the opportunity to explore the many side valleys and peaks of this delightful region. Instead, the stage can easily be broken at Souliers, where another feast awaits the guest at the village gîte, after which a day can be enjoyed picnicking at the picturesque Lac de Souliers. From here peak-baggers have the opportunity to climb Pic Quest, from whose 2844m summit the magnificence of the view is almost beyond description.
A penultimate day completes the circuit of GR58 for a second night back at the Refuge de Furfande, where your last night in the mountains will be a time of reflection, reliving the joys of the Queyras and, if you lucky enough, enjoying one of the magnificent sunsets that delight so many visitors to this region. The next day you bid a fond farewell to the mountains on the mainly descending trail of the standard route of GR541, back to the Durance valley, no doubt with a strong resolve to return one day. Those wanting to climb one last peak can do so by making the ascent of Garnier, above the col of the same name … but take care!
Before returning home, be sure to allow time to visit nearby Briançon, at 1290m the highest city of its size in all France, an ancient settlement with a rich and varied history, and a good place to buy souvenirs and presents.
By now you will realize that the Queyras is a land of superlatives. Its popularity among French walkers and those from several other European countries, notably the Netherlands and Germany, has increased considerably since the 1980s, and facilities to accommodate them have improved in terms of enlarged and upgraded gîtes d’étape and refuges. There is now also a well-established, inexpensive ‘sherpa’ service to transport luggage (and even weary walkers) from gîte to gîte. But, judging by the entries in the hut and gîte books, relatively few of my fellow countrymen have discovered the area. While it is the responsibility of a guidebook writer to ensure that his work does not result in a mass assault on a previously unspoilt area that will change its character forever, the Queyras could well cope with a doubling, trebling or even quadrupling of the number of British walkers to its high mountains and valleys. Eager to share this wonderland with other Brits, and perhaps tired of giving gentle encouragement to visit the region, I now want to shout from the highest summits: ‘Go, go, go to the Queyras!’ You will not be disappointed, and perhaps just a few of you will fall deeply and everlastingly under the spell of this remarkable and enchanted land.
Trekkers on GR58 about an hour out of Abriès
TREK 3
Tour of the Oisans by Kev Reynolds
| Start/Finish | Bourg d’Oisans |
| Distance | 176km |
| Grade | Demanding |
| Time | 10–12 days |
| Terrain | The Massif des Écrins, Haut Dauphiné, France |
| Max Altitude | 2761m |
| Guidebooks | Tour of the Oisans: the GR54 by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press, 2008) |
| Accommodation | Mountain refuges, gîtes d’étape and hotels |
The renowned French military engineer Vauban once described the region covered by this route as having ‘mountains reaching for the sky, and valleys sinking to incredible depths’, which perhaps helps explain why the Tour of the Oisans is reckoned by some seasoned hillwalkers to be one of the toughest of all Alpine treks. Not that every stage is particularly demanding, for some days are fairly relaxing, with streams and pools to laze beside, gentle passes to cross and meadows to amble through. But on the second half of the circuit, where cols and ridges are high, steep, remote and challenging, sections of brutal severity and sudden exposure can spark a rush of adrenalin and call for a clear head and steady feet. That being said, it’s a tour of rugged beauty that should appeal to all experienced trekkers with a good head for heights.
Tour of the Oisans
The rugged country of the Cirque d’Arsine, an hour’s hike from the Villar d’Arêne refuge
Southeast of Grenoble, the Massif des Écrins is celebrated as the highest block of mountains in France outside of the Mont Blanc range. It’s a dramatic region of abrupt rocky peaks and small glaciers, cols of black shale, precipitous