the high ranges of the Queyras from the deep trench of the Durance valley to the west. To visit three of the most dramatic of the nearby Italian valleys, the Tour takes a two-day excursion over the border, allowing a close-up view of the mighty Monte Viso. But there are several alternative routes to explore on the way around this spectacular region, depending on your whim, whether you want to climb a mountain peak or visit a particular gîte d’étape renowned for its cuisine and homely welcome. The Tour of the Queyras offers high-level, but generally moderate-grade mountain walking, and includes the crossing of the highest point reached on any GR trail in France. In all, 24 cols above 2000m are crossed, with options to climb up to 17 summits of varying difficulty, five of which are above the magic 3000m altitude.
The Durance Valley to Furfande
The start of the Tour is easily reached by mainline train from Nice or Marseilles on the Mediterranean, from Geneva or Lyons, or even from London via Eurostar to Paris and TGV from there. It is therefore quite feasible to reach Montdauphin-Guillestre within a day from the UK, and enjoy a night in a comfortable hotel before setting out refreshed for the mountains on the following day.
All forms of transport are left way behind on the long, slow but gradual climb out of the Durance valley, following a variant of the GR541. Those who haven’t kept in shape before the trip may realise their folly on this first day, but take heart, for with perseverance the first col of the trip will be reached. The world is different on the other side of Col de Moussière, as the scenery changes abruptly from woodland and grassy hillsides to austere rocky ridges and rough scree slopes.
The serene Lac du Lauzet is a good spot for lunch, before the short pull up to the second col of the day, the 2458m Col Saint-Antoine. The descent from here leads to the verdant summer pastures of Furfande where, at the Granges de Furfande, a number of buildings are now used as holiday homes. The trail wanders amongst these to arrive at the first mountain hut of the Tour. Refuge de Furfande is situated in a magnificent spot below the Col de Furfande, with widespread views of the surrounding high mountains. On my first visit decades ago, the hut was rather basic; all I was presented with for food were some burnt sausages, and an extremely thin mattress poked through the hard, unforgiving springs of my iron bed! But refurbishment and a greatly improved cuisine nowadays ensure a pleasant and memorable stay.
Furfande to Ceillac and on to Saint-Véran
The GR58 is encountered at Furfande, and is then followed in an anti-clockwise circuit around the region. Those who have stiffened after the exertions of the first day will be relieved to learn that the trail south to Ceillac is a relatively easy one, climbing to the lowest col of the Tour, the 2251m Col de Bramousse. But this is not tackled until the delightful hamlet of Les Escoyères, with its fine church and refreshing water fountain, is passed, and certainly not before a stop at the café-restaurant of the splendid gîte in Bramousse.
Ceillac is the first of two places where the GR58 and the GR5 meet and cross (the other being Brunissard later in our Tour), and is situated on a level plain where two valley systems merge, the Mélezet from the south and the Cristillan, a steep glacial hanging valley running east-west. During the late 20th century, the village expanded considerably to accommodate the growing ski trade, the speciality of the region being ski de fond, which uses long, narrow skis. Ceillac is the main centre for this. Despite expansion, the village retains its original character as a small farming community; there are many fine old buildings, and the 19th-century church of Saint Sébastien makes a perfect setting for the music recitals that are occasionally held there. Ceillac is a major centre for traditional and modern wood carving, and two large carved ‘carpenter’s crosses’ will be found there. A Queyras speciality, these crosses are adorned with articles relating to the life and death of Christ (carpenter’s tools, the Roman soldier’s spear and the crown of thorns).
The view from Saint-Véran
The village is a very good centre for Alpine walking, as there are no less than four high cols accessible on foot, and it is interesting to try to locate their position from the high street. Two are crossed on this Tour of the Queyras, namely Col de Bramousse and Col des Estronques. The other two, Col Fromage to the north and Col Giradin to the south, are both situated on the GR5.
The trek east to Saint-Véran offers the opportunity to climb a small peak, the 2757m Tête de Jacquette, from Col des Estronques. From the summit, sightings of some of the 3000m giants of the region will be made in clear conditions: Monte Viso (Monviso in Italian) (3841m), Visolotto (3348m) and Le Grand Queyras (3114m), all superb mountains that will be seen at closer quarters in a few days’ time. The next objective, the village of Saint-Véran, is also visible on the opposite side of the valley below.
Saint-Véran, at 2020m, has the distinction of being the highest continuously inhabited community in Europe. The population in 2000 was 271, but at its peak in the early 19th century it stood at 865 souls. The village today depends largely on tourism, and the ski trade in particular, for its survival. Nevertheless, it has resisted the more garish developments that mar so many French ski resorts, and still retains the air of a simple mountain village. Much of the building is in wood, and the houses are constructed in such a way as to avoid being in each other’s shade. This makes full use of the warmth from the sun, so important at this altitude. The church is an interesting, ornate building containing several gilded figures of the saints. Opposite the main entrance is another finely decorated ‘carpenter’s cross’.
The Queyras is well known for its sundials (cadrans solaires), several of which will be found in Saint-Véran, painted on the south-facing walls of a number of buildings. Perhaps the finest is that on the wall of the church. Notice that the time indicated is nearly always an hour or more ‘slow’. Perhaps the local time, when these sundials were painted several centuries ago, was different from modern French summer time?
Refuge Agnel and Le Pain de Sucre
The next day penetrates into the heart of the Queyras along the ‘Grand Canal’ route, which follows the course of an old, but now dry canal used in the days of copper and silver mining in the valley in earlier centuries. For the first time this Tour exceeds 3000m, if you choose to ascend Pic de Caramantran. The route also has the distinction of reaching the highest col on any standard GR trail in France, the Col de Chamoussière at 2884m, although this will be of little concern to the wayfarer, who will be far more interested in the area’s magnificent rock scenery. One of the most striking mountains in the whole region, the 3175m Tête de Toillies is on view for much of today’s ascent. This imposing Matterhorn-like peak, which sits on the Franco-Italian border, provides challenging sport for rock climbers from all over the world.
Walkers at the Col de Saint-Véran
The Grand Queyras, seen from the path between Col de Chamoussière and Col de Saint-Véran
After four days carrying a pack over steep mountain passes, it’s a good idea to give the shoulders and back a rest and have a day off in the high mountains. Refuge Agnel is perfect for such a day as it is situated at high altitude, in stunning surroundings, with some of the best peaks easily accessible, and there is a variety of walking excursions available in the area. Moreover, if not too crowded the refuge is a pleasant place to stay awhile; sunsets can be spectacular. Having a complete rest day would be pleasant enough, but for the more energetic and adventurous an ascent of Le Pain de Sucre (3208m), the French ‘Sugar Loaf’, can be made. This is the highest point reached by any of the ascents on the whole tour and, if you do it, will be the first time that you get to over 10,000ft. Although the peak appears quite formidable, under good conditions the practised hillwalker used to scrambling and a little exposure should experience few problems, provided the waymarked route is followed to the top.