Ulrich Gutmair

The First Days of Berlin


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GmbH, Stuttgart. English edition published by arrangement with Michael Gaeb Literary Agency

      This English edition © Polity Press, 2021

      The translation of this work was supported by a grant from the Goethe-Institut

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      ISBN-13: 978-1-5095-4731-9

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      Library of Congress Control Number: 2021938641

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      For Tal and Amalia

      My heartfelt thanks to everyone who told me their stories and also to those who contributed their memories but were not named in the text: Bettina Ellerkamp, Florian Zeyfang, Jörg Heitmann and Jutta Kunde.

      I also owe a debt of gratitude to Alexandra Corell, Annette Maechtel, Gabriele, Hannelore and Werner Gutmair, Henriette Gallus, Martin Hossbach, Maximilian Dorner, Micz Flor, Ronald Düker, Silvan Linden and the folks from Sourcefabric.

      Some thirty years ago, Berlin was a sleepy place, detached from the rest of the world. Long gone were the days when the city was the most powerful industrial centre in continental Europe; a metropolis, birthplace of artistic avant-gardes, battleground for political ideas, welcoming place for revolutionaries of all kinds. The Nazis had exiled most of the artists, many of whom were Jewish, who had made Berlin a vibrant, hypermodern city. They had considered jazz to be ‘un-German’, and modern art to be ‘degenerate’.

      On 2 May 1945, the Red Army finally conquered Berlin. The tyranny that caused the death of 50 million people in Europe, and was supported by some Germans until the bitter end, was over. The Cold War split the city into two halves. As a whole, Berlin found itself pushed from the centre of German culture to the periphery. What remained was the myth of those Golden Years.

      After 1945 the Western part of Berlin was controlled by the Western Allies – the USA, the UK and France – and later became a part of the Federal Republic of Germany in the West. During the Cold War, the Western Allies considered West Berlin to be ‘the showcase of the Free World’ within the Eastern Bloc. Surrounded by the Wall, the enclave relied on subsidies from the West German government. Had it not been for the student revolt in 1967, the squatters’ movement, the young Germans who came here to avoid the draft, and artists like Einstürzende Neubauten, Iggy Pop and David Bowie, who loved the morbid charm of this grey and forgotten place, we would not have been able to say that anything significant happened here during the 1970s and 1980s.

      When the Wall was opened by East German government officials, on the evening of 9 November 1989, the city slowly woke up again. The first days of reunified Berlin began.

      I had moved to Berlin from Bavaria to study history three weeks before the Wall fell. Now, I could study history in the making. I began to understand how revolutionary events actually disrupt and transcend its course. In those days, even the passage of time felt out of control. It seemed to speed up. Every day a new experience, every night a new sound. Rapid political change was followed by a fast transformation of city space. And paradoxically, it also seemed as though time stood still. Berlin-Mitte was an almost pastoral cityscape, a utopia in the true sense of the word. A non-place, in which the sound of the bass drum would set things in motion.

      When we went out for a night of dancing in some makeshift club, sometimes we would reach a state of euphoria that, by definition, is the closest a living being can get to the eternal. Forgetting the past and the future, while getting lost in music, we would enter the magical time-space of absolute presence.

      When I started to write this book and tried to fill the gaps in my memory, to reclaim my own history that did not find many references in the rapidly changing surroundings, I studied newspapers and books, and more significantly, I asked a variety of people to tell me their stories. This book is also their book, and I have tried to treat all those stories with respect while keeping the somewhat cruel distance you need to write truthfully.

      While working on this book, I spent considerable time trying to find ways to avoid writing ‘I’, thinking that there is a pompousness in it – if not accredited by necessity, the economy of the text itself. But this ‘I’ contained a higher truth. This is a history of the events and developments in Berlin-Mitte that tries to take into account as many perspectives as possible. But ultimately, it is also my personal story.

      This is a book about cities. What Berliners fear most today