Michael Chinery
A good friend in the garden, this hedgehog is busily polishing off a snail.
Our foes
Michael Chinery
Beautiful, but also beastly, the lily beetle must go if you value your lilies.
Michael Chinery
This apple shoot has been deformed by the piercing beaks of hundreds of sap-sucking aphids.
Michael Chinery
Caterpillars of the large white butterfly here surround a solitary caterpillar of the small white. Both species are major pests of cabbages and other brassicas.
Michael Chinery
One of the worst of the gardener’s foes: the netted slug is the one we usually find in our lettuces.
Pest control
Gardening will always be a competition, with the gardener pitting his or her wits against an assortment of uninvited guests which are doing their best to damage the plants. Although you may have to get tough from time to time, it need not be all-out war. Live and let live is always a good motto for the gardener.
Avoid chemicals
One can buy chemicals, i.e. poison, to control just about every garden visitor, but they have many drawbacks. There is always a risk of killing useful or harmless creatures as well as pests. Killing useful creatures, such as ladybirds, may actually lead to an increase in the garden’s aphid population and a tendency to use ever increasing doses of insecticide. Although most modern pesticides break down rapidly in the soil, heavy applications may lead to a build-up of residues that can damage the soil and enter the food chains, where they can have far-reaching and surprising effects. Killing harmless creatures does have a knock-on effect by denying birds and other animals their natural food, so your garden will be much less interesting. The true wildlife gardener uses non-poisonous means to discourage or get rid of pests. Aphids, for example, can usually be controlled simply by squashing them with your fingers.
Michael Chinery
Re-cycling the empties: this lacewing larva, pictured with its jaws plunged into an aphid, camouflages itself by piling the empty skins of its victims on its back.
Cultural control
Adjusting the way you grow things, or even what you grow, can make your garden less attractive to pests. Most weeds, for example, can be eliminated by spreading a layer of chipped bark or compost over the garden. You can try growing red cabbage instead of the traditional green varieties: this may not deter the cabbage white caterpillars, but at least you can see them more easily and remove them before they do the damage!
Companion planting or inter-planting is often used to reduce damage by pests. Planting onions and carrots close together works well because the smell of the carrots deters or confuses the damaging onion-fly, and the smell of the onions discourages the carrot-fly. Roses or other flowers planted at the ends of vegetable rows attract hover-flies, which may lay eggs on aphid-infested crops. Some hover-fly larvae can demolish the aphids at a rate of one every minute!
Doing nothing and allowing nature’s web to keep the pests in check is probably the best method of all. Surely losing a few plants to beetles and caterpillars is a price well worth paying for a garden which is teeming with wildlife and with no risk of poisoning yourself or your family?
BIOLOGICAL CONTROL
Biological control, which uses natural enemies to keep pests in check, can be wonderfully effective. Introducing ladybirds and their larvae to your garden, for example, can wipe out an infestation of aphids in days. A single ladybird larva may eat 500 aphids in its three-week development. Green lacewings (see here for stockists) do a good job on summer populations of aphids, and are useful in greenhouses throughout the year.
Biological control of slugs, which are surely at the top of most gardeners’ hit-lists, can now be achieved simply by using a minute parasitic worm called Plasmarhabditis hermaphrodita. Available through good garden centres and other suppliers (see here), the worms seek out slugs and bore their way in. They multiply